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I dropped the engine and started the teardown. No problems comming out. I'm going to take the exhaust off later today. I have to go borrow some torches. What's works the best, heat the fasteners cherry red once, or cool and heat alternately three times before trying to take them off on the last heat cycle?
John |
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When you use the heat. Heat then TIGHTEN the nut a little first, then take it off.
You might apply some penetrating fluid first and let it sit overnight. Just go slow and don't rush yourself. Shawn
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Shawn 77 Targa with 2.7 My never-ending work in progress that has been off the road since Mar 2004 ![]() |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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You could search back a while and find posts for Tyson's (famous) SSI Clinic.
That day, co-instructor John Walker, skillfully applied the oxy-ace torch to the rusted nuts: 1). Heat nut cherry red. With the proper tip, it happens pretty quick, but avoid melt-down. 2). Put correct-sized wrench on the still glowing nut and crank it off immediately. That's it! But then everthing looks easy when done by a pro.
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'81 SC Coupe "Blue Bomber" "Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel."- J.D.M. |
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Good luck with this project. I "envy" you for this. I wish I had a garage I would yank mine out for a valve adjustment and a good detailing. Keep us informed.
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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generally, just heating each nut orange on one side is enough to get them loose. heat it, shut off the torch and get a wrench on it SAP. don't use penetrating oil at all if you use a torch. for one thing, it's not needed, and also it is flammable.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Try size "0" tip. You'll like it.
Good luck, David Duffield |
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Thanks for the advice.
John |
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