Changing brake lines w/power bleeder
 

Folks, any pointers on how best to minimize lost fluid when removing my calipers and brake lines? I have a G50, and I don't want to risk having to bleed the slave cylinder.

Is there a step-by-step process (link) including using the Power Bleeder

depress the brake pedal about 1/2 inch to an inch and wedge a broom or ski pole to hold it down while you open the lines = NO LOSS at all

So, remove the calipers from the rotor and do this before disconnecting the line..right? Would think the opposite would happen...guess a vacuum is created.

do this first...when you crack the line open the caliper will relax because there is nothing holding the pressure once the line is loose but the fluid will not leave the brake reservoir

do you have a Bentley?
search 911 manuals online, the site that says carwell or carnwell something like that has a PDF that will help a lot if you dont

I suggest downloading it cuz you will use it a lot and its quicker to open once you download

might take several tries to get a successful download due to size

Power bleeder or not, just do as mentioned above and depress the pedal some, then go to work. ( Was a bit of a drip at times so I used little piece of rubber and stretched/zip tie'd it to the end of the metal line to slow the flow.) Small amount dripped out. I did complete brake job, lines through calipers and rotors on my 87 back in October and did a simple brake fluid flush using my speed bleeders. Brake lines and calipers firmed up just like they're supposed to and I went to a DE a 2 weeks later. All was good.

Do just like Ed and Jesse mentioned ...
You don't have to fill the Power Bleeder bottle with fluid,all you need to do is monitor your MC reservoir and just keep adding more fluid as the pressure drops.
I did a complete brake exchange ... larger MC,SS lines,four 996TT calipers and i used a little over one liter of brake fluid,and that's only because i bled and re-bled just to be on the sure side of not having any air in the system !
Don't forget to bleed you clutch slave cylinder as well,you'll need a 7mm socket to brake the nipple loose then a 7mm wrench to get at it.You might as well do it while you're there,it's not that hard to access !

Cheers !
Phil

If I do like stated...do I HAVE to bleed clutch slave cylinder?

Anybody use the speed-bleeder valves?

you have a power bleeder...no need to get speed bleeders (belt and suspenders)

I don't have a hydraulic clutch but I dont think it will bleed out with the lines open...and lastly - you are planning a "flush" anyways right....so just make sure and flush that line too.

:p

Seems to me if you're not touching the MC and you don't let the level in the reservoir get down to the level where the Clutch gets its fluid, then no air should ever get into that system. Even then, that line is simply leading down to the cylinder in the pedal cluster. Its not really an "active line" in any way, just keeps the system filled, just like the brake system except no pressure. I "think" that even if you let the reservoir go low, the clutch system would never know it. When you finally re-fill, any air bubbles would simply rise back into the reservoir. I'd not mess with the clutch fluid system unless you actually find a problem. You never said you were removing the brake MC system.