Engine Tick
 

I hopefully will be getting my 79SC into rehab soon and was wondering if this ticking sound is something I'll have to dig into deeper.

Plans are engine drop, all the while your in there items spare tranny install, clutch package, fuel lines and SSIs with heater back date. General clean up is way over due.

So the left bank (1,2,3) seems fairly quiet but the right bank (4,5,6) especially around #4 cylinder has a louder ticking noise. It is noticeable after it warms up. Before I drop the engine I would like to know if it could be a loose valve (adjustable) or the sound of a deeper problem.

Here is a video clip of the engine running the right side is the tick and the left side is just the engine fan blowing in the mike of the camera but it is quiet engine wise. The right is my concearn.

I hopefully will be getting my 79SC into rehab soon and was wondering if this ticking sound is something I'll have to dig into deeper.

Plans are engine drop, all the while your in there items spare tranny install, clutch package, fuel lines and SSIs with heater back date. General clean up is way over due.

So the left bank (1,2,3) seems fairly quiet but the right bank (4,5,6) especially around #4 cylinder has a louder ticking noise. It is noticeable after it warms up. Before I drop the engine I would like to know if it could be a loose valve (adjustable) or the sound of a deeper problem.

I have a video clip I will try to download of the engine running the right side is the tick and the left side is just the engine fan blowing in the mike of the camera but it is quiet. The right is my concearn.

Engine Tick pictures by hd54kh - Photobucket

Terry

Remove the valve cover(s) and check the valve lash on the rocker first. Hopefully no parts fall out. I probably wouldn't run the motor too hard until you find the issue.

I'm sure a "pro" will chime in with other possibilities before you tear the motor down.

Terry
I wish I only had a tick.
enjoy the car.

Yes a valve adjustment is in the plan as well. I don't know when it was last done. I figure ask before I disable the motor. But I suppose if it is a head bolt, valve spring or something else on the exterior valve area I would find it during the adjustment. If it could be something else I would like to know where to start looking.

Terry

I had this.... wasn't serious at 45-77k miles just a top end rebuild and all the while your in there plus other stuff, $10k (was afraid to add it up) or so later things were fine. Tick was worn valve guide(s). Pistons and nicasil cylinders were in great shape. Didn't split the case.

hcoles yours is a 3.2 correct? I'm not so sharp with the 3.2 but don't they have a issues with the valve guides? Mine is a 3.0 with maybe 65k on it, do these also have similar issues?

A 10k rebuild for the top end? WOW that kind of job could potentially put me out of the car. I must remain optimistic for now and hope it is not so deep inside and just a nut and bolt repair.

Thanks
Terry

I sort of assumed the 3.0 would have the same issue with the same sound, but the 3.0 guides may be much better. Hopefully you just need an adjustment. Sorry to be so negative on the $$ front. The part and machining costs add up. I did pretty much all that could be replaced for a top end including an all new clutch system. E.g. 964 cam grind, head work exhaust valves replaced, all new steel head studs, cam sprockets/chains, chain guides, misc. engine senors, tin powder coating, AC bracket and fan painting(clear), custom engine sound pad, misc. vacuum lines, professional piston and cylinder hone rering, rockers rebushed, new rocker feet. There is a lot I left out... but it adds up.

Experience shows in the air conditioned 911, when they go to the shop for the valve adjustment, techs dont like to remove the AC unit and pay very little attention to the #4 intake setting.
Lack of adjustment can be the problem on 4 intake.
Broken spring can cause a click as well as the guides.
Bruce

My "tick" sounded alot like yours, result was a full rebuild, though I had the option of just replacing springs and guides or a general top end rebuild. Yes it is pricey but you'll have an engine that should last a very long time once it's done.

also, you can raise the valve off the seat with the cam and push around on the stem and see how much things move - a couple of my stems moved a large comparative amount - those were the "bad" ones. Replaced all the exhaust guides as I recall, may have replaced all the intakes as well. If this needs to be done you want to use the best possible shop, they should have all the correct tools and fixtures needed e.g. to cut the new seats and know what the best seals and guide material are. There is a lot to know. A good job here and you should be good for at least another 150k miles.

I had a tick in my 3.2. Not a bad fix at all, as the rocker shaft and rocker needed to be replaced. Not expensive at all.

Go for the small stuff first, rather than get too wound up thinking your engine needs a rebuild.

He mentions that the tick is not there when the engine is cold but then appears when the engine warms up. Doesn't this sound like a valve out of adjustment?

Man, your left bank has a serious case of the farts in that video! ;)

Maybe good news
 

I had a few minutes today to wrench on it. Popped the right side valve cover off got the #4 and 6 on the heel of the cam just for a quick check. Both rockers had a lot of gap so I adjusted to spec buttoned it up and let it run.

Was a more quiet but still sounds like the rest might be just as bad. So I'll proceed with the engine drop.

This was the first time I had the valve cover off and was glad no hardware fell out.

If I had obvious major repairs needed I would have to mothball the car for an undetermined period of time. I know some new posts are coming up as I progress.

Keep you all posted.

Terry

Input
 

Had the same thing Bluewing. A valve adjustment will help some of that, but also on mine we found that a couple of the rocker arm shafts were loose..

You could have some worn rocker arms that are worn and need to be replaced.
The ticks will only fully go away if you replace the rocker arms with new ones.
Not a big job but will take some time. Everything everyone else said is valid I thought I would throw in my experience with the ticking as well.

I would pull the exhaust valve cover off and do a little due diligence work based on above input before pulling engine.

Hi Bob, the engine drop was in the plans anyway. Tranny has grinding issues since I have owned it, rubber centered clutch disc (if it is the original), the oil leaks on top right rear, vacuum lines, fuel lines, heat exchangers are shot to name a few reasons for the drop.

The ticking was bothering me so it did quiet down some adjusting exhaust #4&6 as a preliminary assessment. I can do a closer measurement of the valves and rockers when it is on the stand.

I'm sure at that time I'll be here quite a bit.

Thanks - Terry

+1

Do a complete valve adj before you pull the motor.. I think your ok.