starter removal problems
 

Did 69 911t's have flanging nuts on the starter? If so the po changed them for standard 17mm nuts. Now my problem. the top nut is sitting in a v formed by the starter housing, and it is so close to the housing that I can't get a socket around it. I am haveing no luck with an open end wrench either as there is not enough room to swing it. Any suggestions would help at this point.
thanks,

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69 911t
86 951

I suggest a 'partial-drop' of the engine and transaxle. Unbolt the shift coupler from transaxle shift rod, balance/support the 'package' with a floor jack, and loosen all four 12 mm engine/trans mount bolts ... lower about 4"-6" and undo your 17 mm inappropriate nut. Get a 10 mm Allen or barrel nut to go in that upper location and next time all you will have to worry about is how to get a 10 mm Allen drive bit into place to get at it!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren, think I would be able to get a nut splitter in there?

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69 911t
86 951

I doubt it. There is very little clearance between even the proper barrel nut and the starter, and what room there was is now occupied by the 'points' of that 17 mm nut!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks Warren. Is all I need to do as you stated before, remove shift coupler and loosen engine and trany mount bolts, or do I need to follow the procedure as discribed in the tech articles?
Thanks Again

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69 911t
86 951

I agree with Warren, very simple to do a partial drop and the nut will be clearly visible and accessable.

I doubt you will need the Pelican article, since you aren't really removing the engine!

The jack stands need to be placed under the torsion bar tubes, just inboard of the end castings ... put cardboard on the jack stands to keep from damaging the undercoating.

You will be tilting the engine 'down' slightly, and the axles still attached will limit movement. Best access to that 17 mm nut will probably be from the engine compartment with the air cleaner assembly removed.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

fflips, that is what the 99 cent sockets are for. Take your least desirable 12 mm socket, head over to your grinder, belt sander, or lathe, and grind/cut a knife edge taper (mine is 20-30 degrees) on the socket, or until the socket will fit between the hex bolt head and the starter housing. I put this socket on a 12 inch rachet extension and snake it on the bolt head, ratchet that sucker off, works every time and sure beats all the extra effort of a partial engine drop.

Once the hex bolt is out you can switch over to a barrel head as Warren has suggested or stay with the hex and dedicate the ground socket for its removal, if you can remember where you stored it. Also, add some anti-seize or grease compound to the bolt upon reinstallation for ease in the next removal.