Replacing Door Striker Plates - Any Advice?
 

My driver door rattles a bit and the passenger door is very hard to close. Both doors appear to be aligned perfectly (once closed).

Someone suggested the striker plates and my 101 book states the same so I bought new striker plates. The old plates have significant scuffs on the plastic part.

Before I change, I'm open to any tips as I have never done this before. I will at least mark where the old ones are before touching anything.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm hoping not to make things worse.

Thanks.....Vern

The strike plates are held on by pieces of metal with integral threaded cylinders. These pieces came as part of the sheet metal door posts. The small metal pieces that the strike plate attaches to are held in place by a metal tab. This whole assembly can rust out over time. In my case the tab on both sides were completely gone. The piece that the strike plate attaches to can also be rotted out with rust and may break in half when you try to remove the bolts. If this happens you may have to drill out the head of the bolt. This is somewhat painful as it is pretty hard steel.

As for taking them out, spray from the back with PB blaster, Kroil, or another penetrating lubricant. Tap from the front to help the lubricant penetrate the threads. Then wrench on them and hope. Break one side loose followed by the other. Once both have broken loose you should be home free. If one or both have rusted out you will have to get used ones through the classifieds here on pelican or a wrecker. I got mine in the mail from a parts car that Restoration Design had.

Good luck,

J

Is your door NOT aligned when opened? (droops or drops upon opening)
If that is the case, you should lift up on the door (latch end) to check play in the hinges. It's not uncommon to have worn hinge bushings. I'd be willing to bet the rattling on the driver side is coming from the hinges.

As far as R&Ring the plates, you have the right idea. There is a fair amount of adjustment in all directions. It's kinda a trial and error operation. When checking for alignment of the door gaps and inward and outward set, there is no need to crank the bolts down real tight. Just snug them so the plate doesn't move, then crank em down once you got it where you want it.

You need A special tool for the bolt

check the plastic part in between the 2 metal halves - mine broke and it took me a while to figure out what was wrong