G50 pedal cluster rebuild
 

Just want to make sure I'm not creating extra work for me....

To pull out the pedal cluster on the G50, do you need to disconnect the master cylinder at the flex hose and hard tubing? Then bleed after reinstalling?

I only see the bronze bushings for the 915....is the only option to replace bushings with the original plastic parts? At a minimum, mine could use a good cleaning, lube and shot of paint.


Chris

I just did this job. If you do a search on my user name...you should find my thread on the subject with some helpful hints from other people. Overall, the job was super simple...even I completed it by myself.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/643565-dead-brake-pedal.html

As for your question, no...don't disconnect teh master cylinder. You should be able to unbolt it from the frame of the pedal cluster and slide it out in tact. Draining and bleeding would be additional work that isn't needed.

As far as bronze bushings...can't answer that...but I'm not sure it applies to G50s. I bought a used cluster that was already cleaned and such. I tried to get one person to rebuild it...but I ran into the problem of the spring that needed replaced no longer being available.

I was looking at doing this on mine but never got round to it. The bronze bushings that are available are not for our cars. I guess you could buy the plastic ones again. If your only driving a few thousand a year they will last a hell of a lot of years.

If you do this project, please post how it went. I'd be interested.

Thanks for the help, I took a second look and now see how it has to come out....I'll post an update and some pics when the job is finished.

Chris

I've got all the parts apart, cleaned and painted. Alot of dried junk in there and the whole thing looks alot better.

I bought new plastic bushings for the inner and outer main shaft -- the small bushings looked fine -- which are coming today. (2 days from CA to CT...way to go USPS!)

Should I smear some grease on these and the rest of the linkage surfaces where there will be contact? Past posts on the bronze bushings indicate using light oil, grease seems like a better choice for these. I think a light coat of grease on the clutch pedal shaft would prevent some of the light rust I found.

I would use a dry lubricant safe for plastics. A wet lube like oil or grease is going to attract dirt.

A gun lubricant like Hopps would work good. You want a dry lube because you can see how much crud and dirt finds its way to the pedal area.

Here are some pics from the job, pretty straight forward once everything was out of the car. Only small issue was the roll pins were a little stubborn getting out. Lots of surface rust and old grease to be cleaned up on the pivot points.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332724097.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332724119.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332724128.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332724137.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332724148.jpg

Thanks for posting the photos.

to remove it from the car, did you have to go underneath the car and undo anything or were all the fasteners accessible from inside the footwell?

There are two nuts that need to be removed from under the car, 10mm if I remember. They are at a bit of an angle, but once you get under the car you can't miss them.

I'd like to tackle this some time...I have what sounds/feels like a faint spring binding when I depress the clutch that is really annoying. I sprayed various lubricants on the springs but it does not make any difference. Amazing how annoying something that minor can be.

PO rebuilt the cluster with the newer bushings, but I get a very noticeable (spring?) creaking sound when I depress the clutch. Is this normal? Any way to fix it?

Reviving this old thread to ask: has anyone run into problems with part availability for a G50 pedal cluster rebuild? Apparently there might be trouble finding one of the springs as a replacement part.

Did mine in May of last year, but did not replace the springs. Availability of parts wasn't a problem, but the roll pins took a while for some reason.

When I had to do this project, the part that I needed was the smaller spring. I thought I had a lead on finding one, but it fell through...so I bought a whole new used cluster. Apparently the spring is no longer available, and the one person I found that said he would make a batch decided that there really wasn't a market for them. Atleast that was my experience.

Ok thanks guys! So, worst-case scenario, would need to buy a used cluster for the spring if it needs replacing. Where did you get your used cluster Kaliv?

When mine felt like that, it was due to a crack in the clutch pedal shaft (the main shaft in the pedal cluster). Incredibly it had the crack and did not break for at least 20k miles. I was able to get a replacement thru Pelican.

The crack was quite obvious on mine, and could not escape detection - but I'd advise you check yours carefully in case it's only slightly cracked. It causes a funny 'nothingness feeling to the pedal.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 370k miles

If this is what the most recent post-er is referring to, my probs were associated with the master cylinder. I replace it, the slave, and the line in between (while doing the cluster), and man - what an improvement. My springs looked fine.