brake and gas pedal heights

[Drisump]

I have an 85 Euro Carrera and want to know the best solution to enhance the ease of heel and toe driving. I've had a few other performance cars and none seem to be as difficult as the Carrera (in stock form) to "heel and toe" with. One 911 owner I met recommended one of those thick billet aluminum gas pedals, it may work but will it make long distance driving APITA? Your input to this problem would be appreciated. Cheers,

[aston@ultrasw.c]

The height of the brake pedal is adjustable. If you pull off the floor board around the pedals you will find that the brake push rod has locknuts and can be adjusted to change it's length.

In my case I eased the brake pedal down a little so that when hard on the brakes the side of my foot can easily blip the throttle.

[moneymanager]

THis isn't rocket science. I'd start by glueing a piece of 1/2" plywood on your gas pedal. GIve it a try and see if it works for you. If it does, you can do something fancier to achieve the same end.

[Talewinds]

I did this very thing last week. Previously, heel-toe wasn't even close to possible, gas pedal was too deep. I moved the brake pedal inward just a bit so that it is even with the clutch pedal, then the gas pedal outward enough so that I can contact the gas pedal when I'm on the brake.
There are adjustments on both the gas and the brake.

[rusnak]

I've seen some guys simply modify the brake pedal actuating rod. I bought an adjustable gas pedal, and I love it. The issue is more the gas pedal height, rather than pedal width.

[CCM911]

Now see, the real men amongst us have big feet, so this is not a problem. You know, big feet, big... you know what I mean.

But for your issue, I would just go in under the floorboard, and adjust the rod, as mentioned a few posts up.

[RWebb]

where are you putting your heel?

where are you putting your toe (ball of foot)?

[teamfee3]

Rennline fully adjustable gas pedal with winglets. The shaft gets cut to length and lots of adjustability.

[Cooper911SC]

Here was my inexpensive solution that blends into stock interior rather than $pend on a fancy aluminum set...

Use another stock pedal and trim off the "hinge".
Next layer up some thin black ABS sheeting from Home Depot or your other local hardware to get optimum height with brake depressed.
Finally drill some holes, Counter drill the back of the stock pedal and bolt together using countersunk black oxide coated allen bolts and Nylock nuts.

Heel and Toeing has never been easier!






Have fun with your project!

Cooper

[Thrlls]

I felt the same way when I first got my 911, then it was suggested to adjust the brake pedal as mentioned above.
Just be sure you don't adjust it too low, but when done correctly I see this as the best and safest way, and it's not difficult to do.
Oh...my foot is a 5E so it's more big toe/little toe for me...

[Cooper911SC]

**If** I'm correct...Brake pedal height is only adjustable on early pedal assemblies. I know mine ('81SC) is a pre determined/manufactured length...not adjustable unless cut and welded.

Much easier/safer to add thickness to accellerator pedal.

My .02, Cooper

[Drisump]

Ya know, I hadn't removed the floor boards to see if adjustment was possible but now that I know, perhaps adjusting the brake height downward would be more suitable.Cooper, does the extra thickness of the gas make it less comfortable to drive long distances? To RWeb: heal on the floor, ball of foot on brake and right side of foot blipping on gas. To CCM911: don't bring my monster feet into the question..... I just have to be careful to not press the clutch as the same time (with my right foot). I'm going to try the adjustment route, Thanks to all,good info

[RWebb]

I would adjust the stock pedals, and maybe get my heel off the floor a bit.

[Steve W]

Stack another stock pedal on top of your stock one like above, and use some washers or plastic spacers like above to gain about another 1/8" on the bottom edge. Then use the adjustable link rod behind the pedal to set the pedal height. Also you can shim some washers under the pedal of the right fastening screw at the bottom of the hinge to tilt the pedal closer to the brake pedal. Remove the rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedals, which will bring it's height just that bit lower, and cover the pedals with 3M grip tape, which will hold the ball of your foot better under the heat of the battle when you are rolling the side of your foot over to the gas, giving you more confidence to brake later without having to worry about your foot slipping off the brake. On the back of the stock gas pedals, you can see 4 holes about the size of some wood screws, which you can use to attach the stacked pedal with screws so no screws show through on the face.

The other option which works just a little bit better is to cut out a wider pedal out of some 5/8" multilayer birch plywood in a shape not unlike the Rennline pedal above, and screw that onto your stock pedal from the back using wood screws through the 4 holes mentioned. Both ways actually work great.

[ruby911]

this is probably obvious - Make sure you adjust the pedal to suit you while it is pushed in. When I did mine, I pushed the pedal in and then took note of where the break pedal was relative to the gas pedal. I then adjusted the break pedal connecting rod so that the break pedal and gas pedal lined up when breaks were on. This makes perfect alignment to heal/toe with the ball of your foot on the break pedal and the outside of your foot on the gas pedal.

[Forza]

Originally Posted by aston@ultrasw.c

The height of the brake pedal is adjustable. If you pull off the floor board around the pedals you will find that the brake push rod has locknuts and can be adjusted to change it's length.

In my case I eased the brake pedal down a little so that when hard on the brakes the side of my foot can easily blip the throttle.

What is the factory specification for the length of the brake pedal's adjustable push rod? What is the shortest the rod can be made before braking force is compromised? Obviously, this can be determined through trial and error, but is there a recommended lower value before encountering trouble?

[dshepp806]

Originally Posted by Steve W

Stack another stock pedal on top of your stock one like above, and use some washers or plastic spacers like above to gain about another 1/8" on the bottom edge. Then use the adjustable link rod behind the pedal to set the pedal height. Also you can shim some washers under the pedal of the right fastening screw at the bottom of the hinge to tilt the pedal closer to the brake pedal. Remove the rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedals, which will bring it's height just that bit lower, and cover the pedals with 3M grip tape, which will hold the ball of your foot better under the heat of the battle when you are rolling the side of your foot over to the gas, giving you more confidence to brake later without having to worry about your foot slipping off the brake. On the back of the stock gas pedals, you can see 4 holes about the size of some wood screws, which you can use to attach the stacked pedal with screws so no screws show through on the face.

The other option which works just a little bit better is to cut out a wider pedal out of some 5/8" multilayer birch plywood in a shape not unlike the Rennline pedal above, and screw that onto your stock pedal from the back using wood screws through the 4 holes mentioned. Both ways actually work great.

Good stuff,.,.thanks, Steve.

Best,

Doyle

[Nine17]

I went the same route as "Team Fee," combining the Rennline adjustable throttle pedal with the Smart Racing Products replica RSR footrest, on the recommendation of two-time Thunderhill 25 winner Rich Walton at Jerry Woods Enterprises. After taking a look at the bags of parts I opted for a professional install at Fastlane Porsche Service, because the job involved a little more cutting and measuring than I felt comfortable with (I'm one of those "I cut it twice and it's still too short" guys). By the time I was done parts and labor added up to well over $500, but as I've been spoiled by BMW pedal ergonomics I think that it was money well-spent. Just this past week I drove two-and-a-half hours of freeway to join the Targa California crowd for four straight hours of serious back-road burning, followed by an hour on the freeway back home -- no fatigue, perfect throttle control, easy heel-and-toeing, solid and comfortable driving position.

Like the Pirelli ads say: Power is Nothing Without Control...

[ScottG]

Thanks for those who contributed to this thread. I was frustrated too with the relative height between the gas and brake pedals. Here's what I did to improve the situation:

1) Brake pedal height - I adjusted the brake pedal link and moved the brake pedal height down approximately 1".

2) Gas pedal height - I lengthened the gas pedal link slightly, only a couple of threads--I chickened out about messing up the WOT.

3) Added a second gas pedal to the first - I picked up an identical gas pedal for $15 (shipped) on eBay. First, I trimmed hinge and stop tab off the eBay pedal.
Then I drilled all the way through the 4 holes on the original pedal, countersinking the holes with a 1/2" spade bit. Then I stacked the eBay pedal on top of the original pedal. Finally, I used (4) 1" #12 bolts and #10 washers through the back of the original pedal and into the eBay pedal. Finally, I reinstalled my new "gas pedal sandwich" back into the car.

The gas and brake pedal are now within about an inch of each other. It seemed like they were about 3-4" apart when I started. Heel and toeing is now possible--except that I don't know how to do it...yet!