Shift coupler adjustment

[mholbrook38]

OK, I installed the Wevo shift coupler and new cup and shaft bushings. My old coupler was a bit sloppy but the cup and shaft bushings were actually OK. Replaced them anyway.

When I first adjusted the new Wevo, I found the shift knob way too far forward but the shifting was good to excellent.

I looked at my original coupler it appears from my marks that it was about 1/2 inch from the end of the knurled shaft where the coupler was tightened. I loosened my coupler, pulled the shift knob back to where I could just reach first gear, held the shifter to the left while turning the shaft to the right and then tightened it up.

When I move the shifter over to engage reverse or fifth, it seems perfect as it is not hitting either of the blade stops in the mechanism. Unfortunately, it seems a bit stiff going into second from first but perfect from third to second. All other gears are great. I wondering now about changing my transaxle fluid from Swepco to something else.

Any comments that might be helpful appreciated.

[ivangene]

OK so I am confused about what you are trying to do,..... sounds like you have a good handle on the couple adjustment and got it right but still want smoother, thinking a new fluid will help...

I can understand that (if I read that right)

I am swapping to Kendall NS-MP Dino 80w/90 and there is a differant one for LSD so be sure you get the right one.....I have Swepco now....waiting for the new fluid to arrive

[rusnak]

You have to take the spring loaded top off the Wevo to do left right adjustments. There is no other way. I usually adjust the coupler with the tranny in 2nd or 3rd. I think uou need to come toward 1rst/ 2nd.

[ivangene]

I think he has a WEVO coupler, not the whole WEVO shifter.....sounds like stock shifter

[mholbrook38]

I think Ed M has it exactly.....shifts good and fairly tight, as good as a stock shifter can shift. I think the fluid might make a difference.

I'm thinking of changing to Kendall myself.

Note: This is a stock shifter with a Wevo coupler and new bushings. Car/trans has 57k on it. Never raced, autocrossed and mechanically lived a very mild life. Almost no signs of wear on the linkage or lever. New clutch at 28k from Porsche dealer in San Diego.

Other than first to second, nearly perfect example of a 30+ year old car.

[mholbrook38]

Why is it that we use "first" gear and not "reverse" to adjust the coupler. Reverse is spring loaded and there is a stop that guarantees you are all the way in the correct gear. Not that I think the coupler is not adjusted fine. Just curious.

[ivangene]

I built a spring for 1-2 so there

[rusnak]

Because reverse is spring loaded.

Sorry, was reading on my phone. Try 2nd then?

[agfours]

I was getting a quickly increasing number of balky shifts - sometimes would just not go into gear without coasting for a few seconds. First was getting really moody as well. (and this tranny was rebuilt 5k miles ago!)

So, three of the projects I just completed this weekend were the Wevo Coupler, changing to Kendall, and replacing the clutch cable. (I have no idea what gear oil was in there before, so this is not a statement about Swepco vs. Kendall)

Here's what I found -

1. the coupler certainly made the 'action' more predictable. i.e. it reduce the amount of concentration required on my part to ensure that I was perfectly lining up the gear lever before I was sure that I was in the right plane to engage the gear.

2. The Kendall was a game changer (maybe as much as the coupler, but in a different way) for the balky shifts. It was MUCH better at cold temps. At operating temps, i can shift into first when <5mph now without ANY balkiness, and no more occasional temper tantrums from third and fourth. It really smoothed out the shifting like a hot knife through warm butter. Previously, to get into 1st required double clutching a couple of times, some acrobatics in touching 2nd, then maybe 3rd if that didn't work, etc. Now, one double clutch, and into gear smoothly every time. BTW, you have to do this with the car level - I'd seen some others recommend jacking up the front as well, but since I had the rear wheels off already to do some other maintainence items, I found that while the wheels are off, I could basically lower the car to pretty close to level on the jackstands (probably 12" elevated at the back bumper, which was just enough to get under the car.) This may not be the most level, or the best way, but it seemed to work ok. If you do it yourself, a manual pump is a MUST. ($14 at Sears) In hindsight, it was such a straightforward job, next time, I'm probably going to take it up to the independent oil change shop up the street since they have a pit, make nice with the owner, and closely 'supervise.' Last note on this, I found that Kendall is now available through Pelican (which is about the only place I can now find it), but you may not find it using the search feature. You will have to go directly to the catalog and look under gear lube.

3. The clutch cable definately lightened the pedal, and gave the release point more feedback, making it much easier to modulate, especially from a stop. It was easier to replace that I thought as well.

Good luck!

[mholbrook38]

Thanks to all. I am going to try the Kendall. The 1=2 shift is just a little balky and it does get better when the gear oil warms up. The coupler is just awesome. I have to remind myself not to just downshift to first....although that is done without grinding the gears with a double clutch. Fortunately I learned to do that many decades ago on a 49 Chevy Panel truck delivering dry cleaning....

Close the thread.

[labdag]

hi wondering is someone might able to shed some light on this:
83sc. it started up fine this morning. i ran it for 10mins. I had replaced shifter bushings last week. i decided to adjust shifter coupler today again. after adjustment the car would not start. it cranks, has fuel, sparks but wouldn't start.

any ideas?
thanks

[labdag]

I think i found the issue. Looks like a broken coil cable to distributor cap. I've attached pics. I didn't get to test spark. will do that tomorrow but fairly sure i need to change cables. since I'm at it I'll change caps, rotor, coil and all cables.