911sc Rear Suspension & Swaybar

[911 tweaks]

I have a challenging question for fellow pelicans...maybe not so but it sure is for me.
Here is the situation:
1982 911sc, the trailing arms are alloy with a steel post & ball for attaching the other end of the drop link for the rear stock sway bar.
My factory sway bar has "1" 90 degree bend on each end of it (which I believe is the correct style sb for this car) and I have drop links that would accomidate this sb. drop link #930 333 072 00 left and right.
So, since it appears that my car has some earlier model car trailing arms(banana arms), my questions are these:
1. presuming my above summary is correct, why are these different arms on the sc? any performance value? Am I missing some clear benefit? What yr car are these barms from?
2. based on your answers to #1, is it going to be easier to just get the rear factory sbar that has "2" 90degree bends on each end and its' appropriate drop links?
3. OR, any suggestions on what to get instead? I know many like the Smart Racing products, but my customer dosent want all of that busy looking, many different colored gold, red, black parts easily seen under the rear. Are their other product/cost options to get a rear sb on these banana arms?
Thanks and let me know what what you all think.
I have attached a picture of the ba, sb, dlink so we can figure this all out.

[911 tweaks]

sorry for the dup pictures...I will try to add the 2nd pic now...How do I add the other pic? I cant find the link button...I feel sooo stupid.

[911 tweaks]

Have I stumped the panel...?

[HarryD]

Here's a shot from Waynes 101 projects of a factory rear sway bar install.



Hope it helps.

[beamonk]

You have the rear arms from a earlier car, whenever they put alum banana arms( up to 77) on the 911. You have the appropriate sway bar for your car. You can get an early bar or do what I did on my 76 to put the later carerra 22 mm bar on it. I cut the drop link in half and welded a early sway bar cup half on the other end. You have to be very careful doing this as the alignment is critical as the cup can pop out if it isn't right. Mine popped out and i bent it to get it to stay in, which it did for several years till my friend spun it off the road and we had to do it again. If you have access to a good welder, it might be the ticket. If not, you might think about getting a stock bar which I think is 18mm. I think it all depends on your long term plans and how you use/drive the car.

[911 tweaks]

thank you John for your explaination. A fwew q's:
1. Why would someone put the earlier car rear arms on a later car?
2. What are my options from least $$ to most $$?
3. If I go try to find "earlier" sway bars, what are my options? (the rear bar I have is 18mm and is the "stock" size for the sc.
Thankyou very much for your help??
**I am very curious why one would put the earlier arms on??? Any performance benefits?? The arm is definatly some allow=magnet wont stick to and the drop link post-n-ball are steel=mag sticks**
Thanks again, Bob

[beamonk]

I cannot really answer that. Depending on the size, if a stock 77 bar would be compatable to the bar on the front, you might find one cheaply. Otherwise, welding the one you have to fit might be the answer. If that is not doable on the cheap, I am sure you could find a suitable bar on the list for a good price. What is the most important is to keep the balance on the car proper. As to why you have early bars on an SC, I would venture to guess the car has had some sort of accident or damage necessitating the arms to be replaced. This is pretty drastic surgery, so it might be in your best interest to have someone check it out for some sort of structural damage. Good luck and happy parts hunting!

[criv911]

Do what i did. I made adjustable drop links with male and female heims attached them outboard and to the spring plate. I also tapped another hole further up the bar to stiffen the effective rate. works great and allows you to adjust for preload.

[Jesset100]

I'm just thinking out loud. Looks like if you can unscrew the old style steel post and ball out of the banana arm, then use the bolt that holds the SC style drop link and use the SC antiroll bar.

PET says the bolt size is an M12X1.5X70

I think the hardest part is to get the post w\ball out of the banana arm

[911 tweaks]

thanks beamonk for your response!

Criv911: do you by chance have a picture you could shoot me to see your set up? Sounds like a great idea!

Jesset100: You may of cracked the code!! How should I remove the post & ball? Heat it if wrench/vise grips dont loosen it?

I guess if the post and ball wont come out, I'll have to sort out Criv911's idea and look further into possible damage fix...what earlier car sbar options I have.

Can I presume these banana arms are from 70ish to 77?

[Rick V]

Originally posted by Jesset100
I'm just thinking out loud. Looks like if you can unscrew the old style steel post and ball out of the banana arm, then use the bolt that holds the SC style drop link and use the SC antiroll bar.

PET says the bolt size is an M12X1.5X70

I think the hardest part is to get the post w\ball out of the banana arm

DING DING DING Looks like we have a winner! That is the way I would go. A little heat and that old ball set up should come out. I would use a pipe wrench instead of vice grips. You could always weld a nut to the end of the steel ball and use a wrench to spin it out. Be carefull with the heat, start small and work up.
Don't forget to get the spacer that goes over the bolt wen you do it.

[beamonk]

I'd think twice about vice gripping the ball socket out. If you screw it up you might have a problem. It try the droplink thing or someother solution begote I went after it. How are you going to weld a steel bolt on it since it is Alum? I would at least wait to hear from someone who has gotten it out before.

[Rick V]

Originally posted by beamonk
How are you going to weld a steel bolt on it since it is Alum?

Weld to the steel ball from the shaft in question. The arm is alum, the ball shaft in question is steel.
The easiest way would be to just get the endlinks for that Bannana Arm.

[911 tweaks]

thanks for the suggestions. I am going out to the shop to try to remove the steel pin/ball from the alum trailing arm.
IF it wont come out my options are:
1. get both drop link versions...cut both in half and weld together.
Another option:
2. but the dual heim joint drop link w/male & female end...this would allow me to use SC stock sway bar on earlier training ams that has the pin/ball.
I will report back in about an hour how it goes.
**Any pictures of the male/female drop link set up would be awesome!!
stay tuned...i

[poorsha]

Have look at this:
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/01-2003.htm

[boyt911sc]

Tweek,

Your sway bar problem has been solved, corrected, etc. before. There are several ways to remedy your problem and it's a matter which way you want to go.

If I have to tackle this problem, I'll go with POORSHA's tip. Just my $0.02. Good luck.

TD

[911 tweaks]

great ideas...however...my trailing arms have the post and ball and I dont know if it is able/supposed to come out. Thus, how would I bolt the drop link to the t-arm if I cant get the post/ball out?
**how do I add pictures to this...I have updates to better explain what I am up against...** Bob

[911 tweaks]

so to summarize...
I have to marry 2 versions for this to work...

has anyone ever unscrewed the steel post/ball from the t-arm??
(the base of the post/ball is either screwed into a steel nut that has been pressed or somehow put into the alum t-arm OR it is all 1 pc and it will never come out...

the deitermotorsports does not address, basically, use of a drop link that 1 end bolts to sbar and other end has to mount to the f*&^&%$g post and ball!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sorry for venting...

So, anyone ever removed the post/ball? how? what did they wind up with to connect the dlink to the t-arm?

I'll be patient and have a cold drink to relax and pray someone knows how to deal with this...

**how do I add pictures???**

[criv911]

Best I can do without jacking the car up. [aren't digitals great]

[911 tweaks]

criv911,
great! amazing how a picture is worth a 1000 words.
where did you get those dlinks or did you make them?
price for the dlinks?
did you ever try to remove the post/ball from the t-arm??
do you know how the post/arm is "attached" to the t-arm?
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!