how to re-install front sway bar?
 

After finish the front alignment, it's time to reinstall the front swaybar. I spent almost two nights under the car, then laying on the side of the fenders, still can't get the bolts in. At first, I jacked up the car. Then I drop it and drive it up on 2 pieces of 12 x 2 wood. Then I jack up the sway bar... still can't do it. Now my brackets, both messed up.
how do you guys do it? Do I have to finish everything and take the car to the mechanic shop to get it on the lift?

If I remember correctly from when I did it I raised the car so the wheels were off the ground. Then undo the top nut on one of the front struts and slide out of the camber plate. This will lower the A arm so that you can easily fit the sway bar. Simply slide the end into the bush on the side where the strut is still bolted in, loosely fit the brackets and then maneuver the other strut / A arm so the bar slides into the other bush.

Once this is done and the sway bar is positioned correctly (centered) you can slide the strut back into the camber plate, tighten up the nut making sure you torque correctly and replace the lock tab washer. You should then be able to tighten the sway bar brackets to their corrent torque.

This is of course assuming you have the solid bar and not the earlier drop link setup which wouldn't be standard on your car.

The bushings on both ends are in place, but the bar is lower. I used floor jack to jack up the bar, but it is toward the rear several millimetters, and there is no way I can push it forward.

I reinstalled mine with one control arm disconnected. I slid the bar into the bushes on both control arms and then mounted the removed control arm. Then I bolted the bar to the body.

+1

the part I have problem is the last part you listed, bolt the bar to the body. it is hard to push it up the body. I used floor jack to jack it up, but when it's up the last mms, it's forced toward the rear of the car.

Without a hoist it's a prick of a job - I used my 12 yo to insert the bolt whilst I held it all aligned (prying on the bracket to line up the holes)

Will get back under there again. I hate getting under the car.

I put my brackets on first, lubed up the bushings with silicone grease, then compressed the sway bar using a ratcheting web strap hooked to two hose clamps attached to the bar (looked like a compound hunting bow when I was done). Get the sway bar in place and release the ratchet. Caution: If the ratcheting web strap decides to release itself before the sway bar is in place, you will be donating the remainder of your Porsche restoration money to your dentist.

http://external.ak.fbcdn.net/safe_im...10RlYgu4xL.jpg

Front swa bar brackets......
 

I think that I remember using a long Phillips head screwdriver pushed thru one of the brackets to use as a lever to push it back into place to get the first bolt started. Then moved to the other side and did the same. Next step was to go back to the first bracket and start but not tighten the second bolt. Then, go to the second bracket and start the second bolt on that side. All done with the front end up on jack stands. Another method that should work would be to use a come a long to pull the swa bar back into position. Don't think I ever had to resort to that one (yet).

will try. It's ok, my teeth are not that nice anyway :lol:

I did the screw driver thing. That's why the brackets are all screw up, bent :)

silicone paste the bar and the bushings, push one end through as far as you can, well past it's normal position, then slip the other end in with a few grunts and then center it. piece of cake.

I did it last night. Pushing it in my hand is not an option in my case. I am not a very weak guy but I think I need to increase my power 10 times to be able to do this. I banged it with a big mallet, will won't move. At last, I jacked it up with a floor jack, and used c-clamp to clamp it in little by little. The rear went in much easier.

it sounds like a similar deal i went through, "thought" i had silicon grease, in fact was not and made sliding the bar through the rubber almost impossible, rubber bush would push out. Went to Lowe's and got a tin of plumbers grease, cleaned all the other stuff off and could easily slide the bar several inches past normal to allow insertion in other side and alignment of the mount brackets. Felt really stupid afterwords as i had tried some stupid crazy things trying to get the bar in, with the right grease was an hour job (compared of a few hours of !!**%**). There is a thread on this. Good luck.

:confused: Whatza "claimb"?

wanted to say clamp, sorry. I corrected it.

We now have the same post count. Weird, huh?

Now, I got one more than you do :D

Hi, been struggling with the front sway bar deal. I replaced the bushings with the silicon grease, cannot realign the bolts. The car is a 84 carrera cab. Do you bolt up the bushing clamp not in the stone guard bolt holes first? My other question is did you guys jack up the stone guard or did you just replace the bar without the stone guard?

I am not working with a lift, just with the tires off, jk stands on the rear and front on the control arm end mounting bracket.

Me again, I can replace the sway bar without the stone guard. I drive the car on the street. Do I need it?

It's all about technique.........
 

Tazzieman has given you a good tip. Specially if you are doing the bigger 24 mm front sway bars. I'm a super senior citizen (old) with a bad back and knee and weighs only 138 lbs. yet, I could install these 24 mm Carrera sway bars by myself!!!! Use a device like a chain hoist or a heavy duty come-along to flex or bend the sway bar like a bow so that the other end of the bar line ups with the rubber bushing. You start with one end of the sway bar in place and line-up the other end by pulling both ends closer (inward) till you get the second end inside the rubber bushing and release the tension. I couldn't even carry a golf bag so you could imagine that you don't need strength to accomplish this project.

Tony

I have no problem installing the sway bar without the stone guard. Unless my stone guard was previously installed wrong, the bolts holding the guard are used on the bushing clamp and cannot be pryed on or reached when aligning the stone guard. The guard covers the sway bar and busing clamp bolt holes.
The question is do I really need the stone guard which protects the fuel pump and steering mechanism?

I think you've answered your own question. I would not considered driving my car in the mean streets of Los Angeles, with steep driveways and bad roads, especially if your car is at Euro height or lower.

Hey guys, thanks for the tips. I just unistalled the bolts one by one and slipped the guard on. Much easier to realign the bolts to the guard once the bar is installed.

Bob
84 Cab