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Can I replace the hard oil lines with braided?

I want to replace the oil lines from the thermostat to the oil cooler in the front. Can I have them replaced with stainless braided lines or should I source new brass lines?

Thanks
Rob

Old 03-20-2012, 02:30 PM
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Reiver
 
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You probably could but why would you want to....they'd be larger in width and more weight and probably require more mounting points/brackets. I suspect they'd also retain more heat but that is a quess.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:35 PM
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I need new oil lines by friday because they destroyed mine trying to get them off the thermostat. And the ones on my car have a strange bend in them for some unknown reason. They are not the same as the normal 911.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:50 PM
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there is no reason you can't. elephant racing and pegasus racing sell braided hoses and fittings (which are not common sizes).
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:01 PM
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I currently have this on my race car. It's a bit of work to do this and you need to buy some metric fittings (some can be expensive) or metric-to-AN adapters (also spendy) to complete it. That said, it's very do-able.

You can do braided stainless, lightweight braid (kevlar) or cloth braid. Elephant sells economical cloth braid hose and high quality metric fittings. But they are crimp-on fittings and you'll need to have a local shop crimp them for you to properly seal them. The hose is the kicker. $10+ per foot adds up fast.

You can do the true DIY by using cutter style (Earl's) or taper-swivel hose ends with your choice of braided hose. These fittings can be spendy in metric and you have to do some head scratching or mock-up to choose the right fittings (angle) for proper routing of the hose & connections. BAT Inc. is a great source for the taper-swivel hose ends you assemble yourself. I recently bought some stuff from them and they're great to work with.

How is the condition of your thermostat? If your lines got mangled, i'd be concerned your t-stat threads got manged too.

Lastly, the general rule of thumb is -12 hose is too small. But -16 hose is a big honkin hose. I know because I have some on hand I need to install as part of my neverending racecar fixes/upgrades. 12 looks like a similar size to the existing metal lines on the car because the outer diameter of -12 vs. metal looks about equal. But the ID of -12 hose is ~0.69" and the fittings themselves are ~0.61" as compared to the 0.72" ID of the original Porsche fittings. That's why most recommend -16 because it's ID is ~0.88" with the fittings being ~0.84"

That said, my racecar was plumbed with -12 for who knows how long and it's not had any oiling problems. I think -12 is reasonable for street cars. I've seen -12 on some pretty strong race cars better than mine and they do OK with it too.

More than you wanted to know. But now you know.............
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:06 PM
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I can help you with Metric Fittings & Hose, and I can crimp them correctly as per factory issue.






Send me an email and I will give you some costs per your design. I also make custom Hi-Clearance hoses for early 911's with late motors like this done for Paul Kane.....................



who has a 3.0 SC motor in his 71 911 canyon runner.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

Old 03-20-2012, 07:03 PM
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BoxterGT has the right stuff. hardline is most prefered as it easily holds the pressure and does not break down as with softer materials. It is also easily inspected for damage to the pressure retaining wall, flexible hoses are not. Hoses also retain a great deal of heat. A local hydraulics shop should be able to make up the damaged peice and then solder/braze it together. Just my experience from the aerospace industry.
Old 03-20-2012, 08:46 PM
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Don't do it. The braided lines will sav and look like crap. Replace them with the same lines the var came with. An upgrade would be the bronze finned lines the Elephant racing sells. Theres an old thread on this site where someone replaced their hard lones with braided lines and they sagged ane were visiable below the rocker panels.
Old 03-20-2012, 10:09 PM
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Sagging doesn't happen with every install of braided line. Mine tuck up nicely under the rocker panels and are not visible at all. It's all dependent on how well you plumb it with the right fittings and hang it with proper hangers.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:37 PM
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Here Another thread about, my set-up in post #8

External Oil Cooler Install
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:20 AM
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didnt BBII run the oil lines thru the heater ducts? I always thought that was a clean way to do it
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:54 AM
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Len Is the Man to talk to. I just put these lines on my car . Nice & clean just like a factory Cohline piece . But custom fit for my car 70 /3.0 motor & trans. No problem putting a 245's in the rear. He also makes just about any & every oil /fuel line & CIS hoses for our cars , Custom & OEM style . Len not only builds some cool custom lines but he is a hell of a nice guy too
Old 03-21-2012, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proffighter View Post
Here Another thread about, my set-up in post #8

External Oil Cooler Install
That's a very nice example of taking the time to hang the hoses well. Rivnuts work very well and are easy to install. Adell rubber-lined hose clamps work perfectly. Great job Roland.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:54 AM
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Another recommendation for Len - I bought some of his fuel lines, and he is very helpful as well as quick and honest.
Old 03-21-2012, 08:56 AM
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Boxster Gt did a great job for me with a cust oil line. I highly recommend.
Old 03-21-2012, 10:47 AM
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70SC it looks like you have the "S pipe" (the one from the bottom of the cooler to the internal oil cooler as something different than the stock configuration. is this correct.
Old 03-21-2012, 11:40 AM
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He's got an older oil tank that uses a threaded connection on the supply/discharge side of the tank, as well as a threaded connection to engine oil inlet tube that is beneath the oil cooler.

For those of us that have later cars with the thick rubber S hose that lays horizontally, this setup looks like a custom modified oil tank. It's just the way that Porsche plumbed it before switching to the simpler all-rubber S-hose.

For clarification, I think its worth mentioning that the oil inlet tube beneath the engine mounted oil cooler is completely independent of the oil cooler. I feel that some people don't realize this. The tube is coincidentally a part of the cooler because it's better packaging to make it all one assembly. The tube itself does not actually interact with the oil in the cooler at all. Well, it doesn't interact with the cooler until the oil first goes into the engine and then finds its way into the cooler from the engine oil gallery.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:16 PM
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Just to confuse things even more,.................

I am now making up a "S hose" adapter pipe for a customer in NY with a later 2.7 motor in his 71 911.

It allows him to use the slip-on cooler original to his 2.7 motor in his 71 that uses a M30 threaded connection at his oil tank..........



Still needs to be welded & plated, but you can see the general layout.

Just keeping busy in my semi-retirement.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

Old 03-21-2012, 12:38 PM
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Ooooooh......... beautiful work! Stuff like that makes plumbing nerds like me smile!

I love this stuff. I could play with hose, adapters, hose ends, etc. all day.

Did you get the VDO mech. fuel pressure gauge I sent to you Len? I sent it free of charge because I figure the service and advice you provide here far exceeds the small cost of the $20 asking price and $5 post office shipping.
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Last edited by KTL; 03-21-2012 at 01:48 PM..
Old 03-21-2012, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTL View Post
That's a very nice example of taking the time to hang the hoses well. Rivnuts work very well and are easy to install. Adell rubber-lined hose clamps work perfectly. Great job Roland.
Thanks Kevin

Here is how it looks in the front:




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Old 03-21-2012, 04:35 PM
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