Check your DME for cold solder joints, this caused a no-start in my '89 a few hundred thousand miles ago, and with your similar mileage it sounds likely. Open the DME carefully and inspect the solder under the 'stand off the board' coil power transistors, looking for a telltale dark ring 'crack'. If you see any, reflow them with a small soldering iron. Be careful with static discharge around the DME, touch metal things often while working on it.

Hope this helps,
Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 332k miles

It looks like the solder joints on these blue things broke. Plus the inside of the DME smells like smoke. So they may be toast. I think they are the only things with bad joints.
Can I just re-flow the solder joints and put it back together, or do I need new blue things? Or is the whole DME shot?
And is there something that may have caused this that I should also fix?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332907187.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332907209.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332907242.jpg

You can try replacing those burnt resistors, but the real issue is "why did this happen?" Because you will just burn the next set of resistors as well if the 'real' problem is not found.

Good luck.SmileWavy

Looks like this guy had the same problem:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/316374-dme-repair.html

He was running two coils without a splitter.

Wow! Those got hot.

Easy fix, but what caused it is TBD?

Anyone know where can I buy the ref and crankshaft sensor depth adjustment tool ?

After more than a decade, have you found the root cause ?

Those resistors are the coil current sense resistors to measure the coil current.
They were over-heated the result of a shorted coil primary or the use of the wrong coil - a CDI type.

It is a real challenge to find a good coil for out 3.2s. The dealer sold silver Bosch is a 50-50 chance of buoying junk. Best bet, find a old black coil from the 80s.

Many coils of today have the wrong voltage and can cause DME problems.

I'd have to dig up some old emails... I can't remember for certain if it was Ingo or Sal that went through and repaired my original DME. I did eventually get one of Sal's modified 944 DMEs.

For what it's worth, i have always used an original coil, and it has always tested fine when i have checked it.

Trying to replace both of my crank sensors as the outer jacket is just crumbling when you touch them, so not long before they will be no good. I have the screws out and I can rotate the sensors, but cannot pull them out. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get them completely out would be appreciated!

You might try soaking them with some penetrating oil and twisting them back and forth to free them up. The aluminum caps on the tips of the sensors are a tight fit in the bracket, and any corrosion on either part is going to interfere with removal. I replaced one of mine last year and it was a real PITA with the engine in the car.