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Registered
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oil question
Hi guys, hoping to get my 73 911t w/2.4 on the road sometime this spring.
I have rebuilt the brakes,rotors,lines ,hoses,fuel tank,fuel filter, alternator,pedal cluster,Zenith carbs New master cylinder,etc next will be tires and battery,etc. My manual say's to run SAE30 for oil if ambient temps are above 32F. Car sat for 12 years in PO'S garage so I thought I would use Kendall SAE30 non-detergent oil for the first while and then change to something like 10w30 or 10w40. Is there any reason I should not use the SAE30 non detergent. Thanks Mike |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,942
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Smarter minds than mine will chime in, and someone will mention The Ultimate Oil Thread - you can search directly on that term for hours of entertainment regarding the elusive oil decision.
Your non-detergent approach is familiar to those of us who have rebuilt older (Brit, etc.) motorcycle engines that use a microscreen (in those days, anyways...) or spinner or similar to contain particulate. In your case, you have an oil filter, and would want the particulate suspended for the best chance of filtration, thus, as I understand it, a detergent-based oil right from the get-go. If this is a rebuilt engine and first fire up, then you may want to use a "disposable" oil that you drain within a set time/mileage. In that case you might eye the amount per quart, but, then again, a popular solution such as VR-1 (search - recent posting) can be had for less than $3.00 a quart. That is what I would use, as opposed to the Brad Penn 20-50 I now use at something around (is it?) $6.00 plus a quart. Remember, today's oils do not have the additive packages that will protect your valvetrain - these additives are considered death to sensors and likewise and have been removed from the oils you see on the shelves. Only a few oils today contain what will protect your engine. Again, the oil thread is useful here so have a look at it.
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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air+fuel+spark
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Here is the ultimate oil thread link
![]() 1. We need ZDDP as an additive to protect our non-roller tappets which is not in mainstream oil anymore b/c all modern cars use roller tappets now. 2. Valvoline VR-1 has ZDDP and is inexpensive AND available from our local auto supply stores...Autozone comes up regularly. 3. non-detergent oils are for racecars only (high revving motors will foam detergents in regular oil) and detergent is needed for our street cars to keep the insides clean and happy...discussed fully in the ultimate oil thread above. Very cool you are getting the 73 back on the road! good luck! Post some pix!
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bryan 1969 911T , '04 S2000, '96 900SS, 4x4 urban assault vehicle R Gruppe #653 |
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Registered
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Thanks for the replies Jdup/combatic yes I have seen the ultimiate oil thread and find it confusing to say the least.
I was looking at using Kendall GT-1 20w50 with added zinc but my manual does say to use a 30 weight oil for my year of engine and I think it said to use a 20w50 for cars built from 1986 and forward. Also in Waynes engine building book he suggests that those that live in warmer climates should use the 20w50 and this you live in the cooler climates you should use a 10w40 oil. Anyway I guess it's back to the drawing board thanks again for the input. Thanks Mike |
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