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Looking for oil pressure input.
What is the proper oil pressure at idle, 2500RPM, and 4000 when cold, at 180F, and 210F. My car at idle is 60lbs cold, 180 is 35lbs and 200 is 30lbs. 2500rpm its 80lbs cold, 75lbs at 180, and 70lbs at 200-210. At 6000 its pegged at 80lbs. The sender is a dual temp/pressure gauge. I received both the gauge and sender from North Hollywood. I've stuck a turkey temp gauge in the oil filler. When my dash gauge says 190 the gauge in the oil filler says 180. I've got Brad Penn 30 strait engine break in oil in it now. The engine is under 1000 miles at this point.
I'm going to attach a oil pressure gauge on it tomorrow to see if it's going beyond 80lbs. On the bottom pressure relief valve I've put in a short spring and a early deep cap. I have a short spring and early deep cap on the side. When I changed to the deeper caps the springs and plungers slid right out. They didn't seem stuck. As I'm in Colorado the temps are in the 50 to 70 degree range here in April. I have a hard time even getting 190 to 200F. The only way I can get 200 to 210 is rev it up. But until I know the pressure levels are OK I don't want to put too much pressure on the cooler and the seals. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris |
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How much pressure can the cooler and engine seals take over a prolonged period?
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Flat Six
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Bob the Oil Guy says (IIRC) ~10 psi per 1K rpm when warm is sufficient . . .
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Dale 1985 Carrera 3.2 -- SOLD 2026 Jaguar F-Pace / 2025 Ford Bronco Sport |
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My 3.2 reads 4 bar (about 58 psi) when hot at anything over 2500 ppm. It may nudge the 5 bar (about 73 psi) when cold above 2000 rpm. Original Porsche gauges and senders. I recall most 911s read about the same.
As a side note, my 2.4 would flash the oil pressure lamp when hot at idle. It would produce about 60psi hot when over 3000 rpm. I changed oil pressure lamp switches till I found one that did not flash the idiot light..all had the same part number and vendor. Porsche came up with some restrictors in the oil line fitting to increase the oil pressure to the bottom end (and gauge) at idle. There is a paragraph in the 3.2 owners manual about the oil pressure lamp coming on at idle when hot and not to be alarmed..there is no fault. My 3.2 will show about 1 bar (14.5 psi) hot, at idle. The North Hollywood gauges may not be exactly calibrated..and you may have the factory restrictors in the oil line fittings to the camshafts, which will bump up the gauge reading. Your pressures look a little high if not (about 5-10 psi)..not destructive though. |
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db,
Thanks for your input. Ijust found a picture of a 140lb pressure gauge. I might have it installed in my gauge. ![]() ![]() |
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Be sure the oil pressure sender is a match for the gauge. Porsche used several senders.
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The Solution?
As most of you don't have a "too much oil pressure problem", I don't know how much value this will be. The engine started with the short spring on the side and long on bottom. Both with the later shallow caps or whatever they are called. I then went to the short spring on the bottom. No real change in pressure. Then the older deep relief caps. Some improvement but not enough for this engine. Then I had two of the new caps I can get a 17mm socket on cut 1mm deeper then the early caps. Not enough. Finally I think I have it. See the picture. I took a long spring that is somewhat softer than the short one. It's about a inch longer. I cut about 1/3 inch and flattened the end as close to orginal as I could. Now it's about 1/2 inch shorter.
Idle cold today 60F droped from 70 to 50lbs. Idle at 180F droped from 38 to 25lbs. 4000 RPM on my 2nd to last combo was 75 to 80lbs at 180F, now 60lbs. 6000 RPM at 180F was 85 to 95lbs now 75 to 82 lbs. Barring some insight from some experts on the subject, I think I'll stick with this. Time will tell if I have a soultion. ![]() Last edited by cmpski; 04-15-2012 at 12:17 PM.. |
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