Steering Coupler Access/Replacment
 

Is there any way to access the steering couple in the smugglers box without removing the evaporator housing and dealing without needing the AC system discharge (not that it works now anyways but that's another day)?

I tried to removing the steering rack shaft support (two 5mm hexes) to remove the cover over the coupler and get access but can't get to both bolts with the evaporator there. Nothing I can find on Pelican, Rennlist or the Bentley manual covers how to replace/access this part.

Are there any DIYs or good photos out there?

Nobody? :(

When I rebuilt my steering box, I unbolted the shaft higher up, and kept it connected to the steering box while snaking it down from below.

But I recall it being a PITA to remove even with the evaporator out. So if your A/C is not working, might as well remove it. I wouldn't be surprised if all the gas hadn't leaked out already anyway.

Hope this helps,
Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 332k miles

KSUGreggy,

What year and model?

Having ‘parted out’ a number of cars, I suspect you are familiar with the steering rack and cross-member.
Consider removing the front suspension from underneath (leaving the upper shocks attached).
You can disconnect one (either?) of the steering U-joint.

Be sure to paint mark the original shaft-to-joint position and lock the steering.
Don’t stress the brake hoses (or replace them).
Replace all the rubber fuel hoses. (Good opportunity to drain and rinse the fuel tank.)

While this is more work, I suspect it can leave the A/C undisturbed.

Best,
Grady

1984 Turbo-Look.

I've removed one of #26 bolts so far. It is my understanding from the Bently (if i recall correctly) that the #25 bracket has to be removed to drop the rack anyways. It looks like another option is to remove the cover of the evaporator core (4 clips and 2 bolted brackets plus some electrical connection I'm sure) and then I'd have more room.

I would like to avoid dropping the rack if possible as it looks like a fair amount of work.

I'm trying to do this in the next week and half before a track event I have planned.

Thanks for any more help!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1333475065.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1333475082.jpg

Did you tell us why you're wanting to remove the steering in the first place?

Sorry Mitch! I have a little play in the steering system. When I turn into a corner (slalom at an autox for instance) there is a split second of delay from when I make an input to when it really weights up the steering and you can feel it take a set. Another example is when I crest Alpha Zero at Heartland Park. This is a rise and fall right before the braking into T1 at this track. If I come over the crest now there is a lot of "play", for lack of a better word, when I start braking after this crest that really upsets the car. This was not there before. This car has been tracked/autox hard for several years on r-comps so I'm assuming this piece sees alot of abuse. It was not like this at the same time last year.

I've replaced the upper column bushing with your improved one (awesome btw). Tie rods have been replaced recently along with the rebel racing bump steer kit. All u-joints on the steering shaft are very tight. This is the last item I can think of that would cause this issue, and being 25+ years old, made of rubber, and seeing alot of abuse, I'm pretty sure this is my issue. If you have other suggestions please let me know though!

are you sure that delay is not from the tires?

Same type of tires on the car from when it didn't do it before. Dunlop Star Specs and Kumho V710s. No difference when I swap wheels/tires. Modified a cheap HF 5mm hex socket to fit in with a breaker bar and got the bolt loose. Wasn't able to get the plastic cover off like I hoped from above bc of AC/brake lines. In the process of dropping the rack out now but stuck with getting the sway bar off the arms.

good time to regrease the rack...

For anyone following, lots of silicone spray and some muscle got the bar out tonight. Not looking forward to getting it back in though! Rest went pretty smoothly, tie rods disconnected, drop the rear crossmember about 1/2 an inch and out came the steering rack. Coupler looks OK but i'll still swap it out. Probably should have ordered the smooth steering kit from Smart Racing. Oh well!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1333590750.jpg

While it's out, check the play between the steering gear and the rack - on mine I noticed a bit of slop here, that's why I got a replacement rack from one of the dismantlers.

Also, if you remove the cover plate that I believe is against the floor in your pic, you can check the wear on the bushing that holds the rack against the ring gear - I had tons of wear on this as well.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 332k miles

when you say steering gear are you referring to the pinion gear seen in this thread?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/224112-sc-steering-rack-diy-bearing-replace.html

If I see any play tonight I will replace that bearing similar to what he has experienced.

>>when you say steering gear are you referring to the pinion gear seen in this thread?

Yes that's what I should have said :-)

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 332k miles

That is a great thread. I did mine last year with that as reference, pretty simple. New bearings and new grease. Plus, the puck in mine looked ugly, but was able to lightly sand. IIRC, all the bearings felt a little gritty. The needle bearing at the top of the downshaft was really nasty. If you're in a hurry to get it back on the road, you may be able to clean and relube the bearings. I think their only about $30. Puck is special metal, not sure where to get it.

You're right installing will require patience and dexterity.

I realize this thread is ancient, but it helped me so might help the next guy!

On my 87 in Carrera, I’ve been able to change the rubber steering coupler without dropping the rack…but for sure the AC evaporator must be removed…so maybe dropping the rack will still be better for some!

1) mark/index the mid-column universal joint, just above steady bearing, above and below. (Both shafts) Remove retention bolts from u-joint completely.
2) remove steady bearing support from body
3) with a bit of encouragement, slide u-joint off of each column portion.
4) slide steady bearing up and off of the lower shaft.
5) slide plastic cover up and off of lower shaft to gain access to the coupler fasteners.
6) slip the u-joint back on the lower shaft, use a bar in the u-joint to hold the shaft from rotating while you undo the upper fasteners from the coupler. (After bending keepers out of the way)
7) re & re the coupler from the lower end of the shaft on your bench vise.
8) re-intall in reverse. I used silicone to retain the metal spacers within the coupler to keep them from falling out before the bolts are slipped into place.

I used a racheting strap and somehow was able to get the splines connected. That was the harder to me than installing a rear targa window alone