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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 39
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trying to fix heater, help with diagnosis
my heater doesn't work so I took it to the dealership (mistake 1!) to have them analyze the problem. 75 dollars later they tell me I need new ball sockets and that it will be another 225 to repair. I order the ball sockets and do research here on pelican so that I can do it myself. Seems simple enough and I feel upbeat after talking with a few people on the board. (Plus I want to try to fix everything myself on the car before I take it to someone.)
I open up the auto heat between the seats and what do you know, the ball sockets are fine! I take this as a learning experience and I will never take it back to them again. Sooo, whats the real problem. I climb under the car to take a look at the flapper boxes. They look a little rusty from 15 years of road grime and what not but they don't look too bad. I spray some wd40 on and begin moving stuff around a bit. ![]() It is tough to move the flapper by hand and when I do I notice that the guide wire separates from the attached piece of metal on the flapper box. Here is a picture of what I mean ![]() Then when I release the flapper it gets caught up on the attached piece of metal. My first instinct is that I need to replace the guide wire. The actual heater wire looks to be in good condition. Any ideas on fixing the guide wire so it doesn't move? Am I on the right track with my diagnosis? Also, seeing the flapper boxes, do they look like they need replacing? It seems they have a few more good years left in them. |
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Hey John,
I would first go back to the dealer and get your 75 bucks back. That might make you feel better before continuing with this project. Anyhow, I wish I could help, but I dont know anything about this system. My heater doesnt work either, I just wait for the fan to eventually blow the hot air in. good luck
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John:
The problem with the guide wire is due to slack in the wire. You need to pull the handle in the car to its highest level, and then loosen the small nut in the picture that anchors the wire at the flapper box and pull the slack out of the wire. This should cause the guide to seat firmly in the bracket. Hope this helps. PS before adjusting, squirt some silicone lube into the wire tube and work it back and forth.
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'94 CMC Firebird Trans Am '86 951 LS1 (C-2) Gone ![]() ![]() '77 911 3.2 (C-1) Gone but not forgotten. http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq1 http://www.youtube.com/user/958Fan#p/u Last edited by marcesq; 04-30-2002 at 05:18 PM.. |
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You could probably use some epoxy to hold that piece in place.
With the lever down, the spring should pull open the flapper, with the lever up, the wire should pull it closed. That is if yours work the same as mine (78 911 SC Targa) As long as the sleeve for the cable on the other side of the collar doesn't move, your ok. Clean them up so they move freely without binding. Steve |
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I agree, get your $75.00 back. Can you crimp the connector so it doesn't move? If you can't crimp it, then go to you local auto parts store and look for a special epoxy called (?) weld. Looks like thick glue and is designed to hold metal-to-metal fittings. It is also heat resistant. Ask the guy behind the counter and he should lead you in the right direction. Your flapper box look fine in my opinion since there are no holes and the hinge moves.
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Steve may be right, but the tube welded to the clamp is a seperate part from the wire and sheathing. If you glue the two together, and one breaks you will have to replace both.
My 1 cent.
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'94 CMC Firebird Trans Am '86 951 LS1 (C-2) Gone ![]() ![]() '77 911 3.2 (C-1) Gone but not forgotten. http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq1 http://www.youtube.com/user/958Fan#p/u |
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There's nothing wrong with what you're calling the guide wire. It doesn't do anything but protect the heater cable.
All you need to do is verify that the flapper boxes are fully closed when your heat is on, and fully open when your heat is off. Either do this using the auto heat control if its working , or disconnect the ball socket and use the heat control manually. Get somebody to move the control while you watch the flappers. Also, I wouldn't spray WD-40 on the flapper boxes. You'll be smelling that inside the cabin for a while.
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Bill Krause We don't wonder where we're going or remember where we've been. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Scarborough, Maine
Posts: 39
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When I move the lever in the passenger area manually, it doesn't fully close or open the flappers, they only slide a little and it is real tough to move. I will try a couple of the suggestions including tightening up the cable. Thanks for the advice and I will let you know my results.
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