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So...I have had this sinking pedal for a while and decided to bleed the brakes...
Well it is my first time and I think I did a decent job... But it still is not STIFF...as some people say theirs are .... As I push the brake lights come on and right after I feel a click...I can push the pedal some more, but it moves very little, very hard to push...is this intial movement just play in the pedal? When I drive around unitl this click I don't get much stopping power, but if I keep pushing...past the click (almost doensn't feel like movent in the peadl, but bending of the pedal shaft...which I know it isn't) then I can lock them up... Just wondering if this is normal...I have had this car for a year and remember the brakes as being really sensistive...(but prior I had only driven SUV...so go figure) and now I feel like ther are not as sensitive...am I being paranoid or is there still air in the lines (or a leaking master cyl...) Thanks |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shreveport, La.
Posts: 1,710
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Pedal is firm, good stopping power with minimal effort. No clicking.
------------------ Robert Stoll 83 SC 83 944 |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Ashburn VA.
Posts: 667
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Same here nice stiff pedal.
GB83SC |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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Mine is firm, no clicking as well. I would check for a leaking master cylinder, and flush your entire system.
------------------ Matt Chamblin 78 911 SC |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,950
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Stiff and firm, no click, creaks or groans.
You may need to rebuild your pedal rack. Old bushings and brake fluid leaks or any attempts to "lubricate" the OE nylon bushings result in a vague feeling and strange creaks, clicks, and groans. You will be amazed at the difference. Jw EDIT: I just thought of something: are your caliper bolts tight? The master cylinder tight to the car body? The pedal rack tight to the floor of the car? I think you ought to pull the wooden pedal rack cover and have a good look in there. [This message has been edited by Jdub (edited 08-02-2001).] |
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Black and Blue
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Stops on a dime, smooth, no clicks.
Kemo 78SC |
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B58/732
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Hot as Hell, AZ
Posts: 12,313
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Same here.
I seem to be able to lock up the wheels pretty easily! ------------------ blue '81 SC Targa |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Mission Viejo, Ca.
Posts: 3
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'79 SC. My brakes feel similar to what you describe, without the click. Kind of soft at the beginning, then hits a spot in the travel where the pedal gets firm again. I had a new master cylinder installed when I purchased the vehicle 5k ago and only noticed this condition after a recent auto-x where I boiled the fluid (almost no pedal). After Flushing the fluid, machining rotors and new pads, I seem to have the feeling that you describe.
The one extra thing that I notice is that when the engine is off, the pedal pumps up firm like I remember it. With my foot on the brake, then start the engine, the pedal sinks and feels soft at the beginning again. Could this be a vaccum line thing? Hep |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sweden
Posts: 5,911
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Huh? I have 930 and it feels exactly as you described, but without "click".
OTH, i don't have any brake-servo either ![]() |
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Registered
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Stiff, no click.
Every year after I take it out from winter storage, I almost through myself out the front window, they grab so fast. ------------------ 1980 911-SC Targa |
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A bit over-boosted is how I would describe them, if you jump from an early car into an SC ... WATCH OUT FOR THAT WINDSHIELD!!! On the first stop, anyway. LOL!
------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 85
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If after you brake the pedal goes slowly to the floor and you pump them to get pressure back you most likely have a bad MC or caliper. But if they go low but still have firm stop and pumping does not work you may have air in the lines. What I have found in bleeding my brakes is that it takes 100-200 miles of driving after bleeding them for my pedal to really firm up. I do not know why this is but it happens every time. It could be the pads moving to a comfortable position. I really don't know.
Just want to add that you might not be able to see your MC leaking on SC's. It could be leaking into your booster. [This message has been edited by mjc76 (edited 08-02-2001).] |
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Well I will check all trouble spots..now I am thinking pedal cluster...
How can I check for this? I know for the master cyl I just look for fluid... But also, with the engin off the brakes are noce and stiff...doesn't the vacumn thinga ma bobers have something to do with the brake system too??? Well any suggestions would be appreciated MJ |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Mission Viejo, Ca.
Posts: 3
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82SC, looks like we have a similar situation, as I wrote above, with the engine off, the pedal is nice & firm.
Anyone else have comments on the vaccum booster deal? |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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Stopping power, you ask?
Hand of GOD! (All stock, including ATE pads.) ------------------ '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA The Blue Bomber's Website |
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