83 SC --- Spark plug access
 

Wow, never thought that changing spark plugs could be this difficult.

I got myself 6 new NGK plugs and checked the gap --- ready to go.

Opened up the engine lid. Took 5 min to locate all six plugs --- visual ID.

By that time, I already knew that getting all 6 changed just wasn't going to happen.

I attempted the right side, most rear --- I think it's #4. Took me another 5 min to wiggle the plug wire receptacle out of the way. Inserted the flex head tool that was part of the tool kit/pouch. Then, when I tried to turn it, there was just no room for the extension to move.

Put everything back and gave up --- for now.

Is there a secret to this? Is it a matter of removing every hose, wire, tube out of the way first? Or is it having the right tools and being able to contort your hand, wrist, arms?

Can someone help a P-brother out?

Thanks!
JC

4 inch extension with a spark plug swivel socket. works perfect on every model 911.

You can do what Rattlsnak says.

Also - use the factory tool. There's an allen wrench that fits into the handle to give you more leverage.

I tried it with the allen wrench that came with the tool kit. Perhaps I didn't try hard enough. I was too afraid to drop something :eek:

Rattlsnak ---

Thanks for the tip.

Which one would be better for this job ....


6 in. Long 13/16 in. Swivel Magnetic Spark Plug Socket- KD Tools-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Sockets

or

3/8" Drive 13/16" 6 inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket- GearWrench-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Sockets

Both are 6 inches in length. The first one seems to be similar (in concept) as the toolkit swivel.

Please advise.

Thanks

13/16 in. Socket, Flex Spark Plug- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Sockets

the only 4" extension i see in there comes in a kit, so you can use a 3" and a 1" with the same result.

Much thanks rattlsnak!

I'll order one.

JC

I use a 3 inch locking extension, plug socket, and a locking ratchet. For removal, insert extension and plug socket into plug hole and get it onto the plug. Snap ratchet on and loosen, then remove ratchet and twist out by hand. For install, insert plug into socket, hand tighten into hole, then use ratchet to tighten and remove extension and plug socket. Easy.

Time ago I made ​​a very cheap and well-working tool using an old spark key welded to a bushing insert.

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Being very small place in the engine compartment the key length must be exact.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1335679861.jpg

Once loose the candle I use a special rubber puller bought by Louis, a motorcycle accessory shop

Anyway you shell remove the blower and hoses on the left of engine compartement and A/C on the right if you have it

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Ahhhh sparkplugs changes, fun. I find that it depends on which plug I am working on, as to which combo of swivles and extensions I use. Actually I use the sparkplug socket, a universal swivel and a 3 inch extension. Depending on which sparkplug I am working on, I'll change the order of how I put those 3 parts together. For some plugs I go socket, swivel, extension. For others, I swich the swivel and extension. I think for #'s 5 and 6, once I have the sparkplug fully loosened up, I have to take the ratchet off to pull the rest of the set up out. I also use a piece of rubber hose to put the new plugs in.

Shortly after getting my car, I removed the A/C compressor since it took up too much space and virtually made it impossible to get to right side of the engine.

This one works perfectly for me:

Hazet

It can be adjusted in length, you can make it short to insert and then extend it per your needs. Don't know if that one is available in the US.

- Manfred

I actually enjoy plug changing - the first time is a little stressful but after that its pretty easy to do, your body will remember all those special bends it takes to access each hole and the angle at which to approach.

after this, you'll be ready for a valve adjustment :D

the factory tool is about the best - BUT there is always the case where the last guy didnt put anything on the plugs or they have been in SO long they are pretty tight to remove, even sometimes pulling the threads. it happens...make sure you put some of that copper anti-seize (small amount) on the new plug threads

hopefully you wont have any real problems....I have seen some plugs that required excessive removal force the whole way out and the threads be OK in the heads....slow and steady if its a sticky one, dont lets it get hot from friction

Not to start a debate or change the subject, but I here/read conflcting info with regard to the use of anti-seize on sparkplugs.

When I changed my plugs on the 911, I used gray colored anti-seize. Then I was flipping through my Bentley manual and it says not to use anti-seize. It didn't give a reason.

When I changed the sparkplugs on my '94 Mercedes E320, the manual says to use anti-seize.

Since I got my first car in 1984, I have always used anti-seize with no issues. Why the difference, at least according to Bentley Publishing, with the 911?