67 2.0 oil leak

911skooter · 911skooter's Garage

oil leaking on new rebuild right rear behind chain case.. what are the chances of it being the oring/gasket for the cam or the end of the rocker shaft?? we put the special orings on the rocker shafts and unless the o ring was damaged or the plate it surrounds was left loose... not sure of the odds w/o tearing it down again. has 15 min on rebuild and has a steady drip as it warms up..not a seep...
anyone out there had this fun experience ??
And more important did you mark the timing chain-sprockets and reassemble with out going through the timing fun again?? thanks all

BURN-BROS · 04-28-2012, 11:54 AM

How did you install the gasket for the cam end? Dry, curil T, 574?

Targalid · 04-28-2012, 03:30 PM

Did you fill the cam chain case idler shaft hole with JB Weld or other plastic filler? If not, you can do it now. See page 68 and 156 of Wayne Dempsey's engine rebuilding book for photos and write-up of this common leak.

911skooter · 911skooter's Garage

OK, yes -used curil T on the gasket and the o ring
yes -filled all the applicable holes with JB weld.

This is a leak that goes drip, drip, drip and makes a puddle, not just a wet spot.
Will pull the cam gasket/o ring assy off tomm and see but didnt want to tear that off if we just didnt think of something easier that would leak and give the same symtoms in behind the chaincase..(I thought of the rocker shaft end but I dont think it could leak as bad as this does.)
maybe we got too hung up on cam timing and forgot to torque the 3 bolts in the chain housing...
Can we mark all the parts and reinstall sprocket etc. w/o messing up the valve overlap? anyone done that?

BURN-BROS · 04-29-2012, 08:43 AM

I have seen multiple gasket failures @ the cam plate when using curil -T...

I use 574 for all gaskets except valve cover.

kodioneill · kodioneill's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

I have seen multiple gasket failures @ the cam plate when using curil -T...

I use 574 for all gaskets except valve cover.

+1, 574 or dry. Gaskets are gaskets leave them dry.

docrodg · 04-29-2012, 07:44 PM

Silicon lube on O-rings allows a little movement wihtout drips (DOW 1211?, can't remember number right now). Would try to find source. Most repair stores sell a UV light leak kit nowadays that is great for detecting leaks. Add the dye to the oil, start car and let it idle. DO NOT rev (blows dye everywhere), then look with light and goggles for leak source. Plan attack appropriately. Most gaskets are fine installed dry, just don't over-torque or that in itself can cause a leak. O-rings are a different story - they are used where there is some movement, mostly thermal, and should have a non-hardening sealer that withstands high temps to allow them to keep a good seal.

911skooter · 911skooter's Garage

1st thanks all for the help and input ! always appreciated.
so far we have:

We removed the cam plate and it was tight, replaced o ring with curil t and used high temp red on gasket.. it still has a leak..somewhere ! we now wonder if there is a crack in the banjo fitting on the end of the oil feed line above all this and its trickling down.. we replaced the aluminum gaskets with copper to see if it made a diff and I think its slowed down the drips by 50%.. Is there a fair amount of failures here as well ? really hard to tell but seems to be ABOVE the cam plate gasket now.. Also we replaced the oil pressure relief valves and springs... with rebuild ..didnt do any mods to block..old ones had the holes in them and the new ones do not as you know.. we have 140 lbs pressure at 2,000 rpm ..isnt that way high for a warm eng ???