He did not glue the Neatrix bushing to the spring plate - now what?
 

Guiding a friend via email on rear spring plate R&R for the bushing. Yes, we all know: lab-level clean and glue the bushing inside faces to the spring plates, inner, let outer plate cinch by interference.

Now what? Is the loss of the inherent bushing "twist" lost as part of the overall suspension? Does the T-bar and shock, etc. now take more of the vertical road movement than they ought to?

Thanks for your replies.

I would assume more stiction in the rear suspension because the rubber doesn't twist. Also the rubbers will wear out faster.

Don't worry about the shocks/torsion bars. With solutions like polybronze bushings all load is transferred to the shocks/bars anyway. And those work great. ;)

So maybe squeaking, and increased wear of the inner bushing faces then?

Right - polybronze is virtually free movement isn't it?

Just a thought. Neatrix is cheaper than labor. Why not drive it the way it is until it destroyed than replace again, this time with glue.

+1. I'll bet most of the Neatrix replacement bushings have broken free of their glue anyway.

++1 on what Dave says. I went to extremes to find some epoxy that worked on rubber to metal and finally found one. Went through the whole process and I can just hear a rubbery squeak over large speed bumps. I suppose it's possible the glue actually has held and that I'm hearing the OD rubbing/moving inside the hole/recess but I strongly suspect the glue has let loose. Good news is they are totally silent on anything but a major speed bump so I know they aren't moving, except in extreme situations. I suppose curiousity may get the better of me and I'll see of the epoxy held but I hate re indexing them so much I'll probably not bother. Just FYI..make sure you actually have the true Neatix bushings. I was shipped the harder poly bushings but did not really know the difference till I put them on and started noticing horrendous squeaking. Then I did a little checking and found I was not shipped the right part. Eventually got it resolved with our host who was very cooperative but it was still a MAJOR PITA to have to do all that crap twice.

I would assume more stiction in the rear suspension because the rubber doesn't need to twist.

who knows for sure ???

this will be a great experiment - mine are not glued either

I just removed mine this past weekend and replaced them with the Rebel set. I was getting a lot of annoying stiction noise even over minor road unevenness especially when cool (most of the time in Idaho). I had glued both and both appeared to still be adherent to the base metal in some areas but not the majority.

Glued mine in. Been 5 or 6K miles so far no squeaks at all.
+ 1......I'd run it as is.

ha, never knew it had to be glued...mine doesn't squeak. the front squeaks however...

Thanks to all. I am used to bushings being "vulcanized" to their metal surfaces and I am confident that is what all of us were up against when we burned the bushings off our spring plates and A-arms. But getting that sort of grip again using Super Glue or Gorilla Glue, well, not so much...

I don't think it matters unless he tried to grease it or left the surfaces contaminated with some type of oil. Remember these are rubber 'bushings' not 'bearings' --I think some of us are con fusing the two concepts.

If you went with the Rebel RSR solids, how do they feel? Are they smooth, harsh, quite, loud? I'm curious.
Chris

It will be a while before I can comment, my engine and tranny are both out and currently disassembled. I found the rubber bushings to be the most street ride friendly but the noise was too much. We'll see if the Rebel is any better, they look like they may be a little on the harsh side.

Hello boys,

There is the same question here, glueing or not glueing. I sent all my pars for bichromate. I have my REAL néatrix bushing.
I do not know what to do but for sure i dont want squeak

:)

SmileWavy


Thanks for help !

http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/48...1129164906.jpg

I installed mine Neatrix w/o glue 2 years ago. Squeaking has never been a problem for me. There are lot of other threads out there on this subject, but personally, I never understood the need to glue them.

Hi Dan, thank for the tips, I read on a on a nearby site (SierraM) that is advise to not glue like you.
Just need some soap suds to help to enter?

I think soap would work. Weltmeister (Neatrix) recommended silicone spray or paste. I actually may have used water based lube stuff like generic KY jelly. (I read it somewhere here) I know I used the same ky type stuff on my tunnel fuel line bushings. Worked very well and dries out when done. nothing petroleum based of course.

This is from a thread I found here - this guy used soapy water - I had to buy the longer bolts to help which I then discarded.
/snip/
The easy way to get the bushings in is to put the inner on the spring plate first. Then use the outer plate to suck it in. Then remove the outer plate and install the outer bushing and use longer bolts to suck it in equally.
/snip/

My former mechanic installed new bushings without gluing, resulting in a very loud creak over speed bumps. I took it apart, glued in Elephant stock bushings, and loud noises have been banished.