Breathing life into a 1973 911T

[GenX Porsche]

At the end of this month I am getting my first Porsche. Needless to say that I am extactic because my dream is finally becoming a reality. I got a great deal on the car but the only problem is that it hasnt been run for about 3 years. The other thing is that some of the oil lines leak...suprise. I was wondering if you guys could give me any suggestions for maintence things to do before I turn the key and awake the beauty. Also how I can narrow down what oil lines need replacing. Thanks alot.
David

[david c.]

David,

Congratulations. That's a great pick for a first 911. Good luck with it. Do you know which injection it has? I think the 73 model T had MFI and then CIS by the end of production.

Also, it might be useful to know if the car was drained of fuel, filled with oil, etc., before it entered hibernation.

My roommate and I are awakening a similar car-a 72 MFI T, that has sat unused for 10-12 years. We've found a gummed up injection pump, a disgustingly filthy gas tank, a crapped-out fuel pump, etc. These are all things that time and bad gas can create.

Tell us about how it was stored? Does the engine turn over easily by hand?

David

[Jim Sims]

Why was is parked for three years?! Does it have any maintenace records? Does it have A/C? Does it have an externally mounted oil cooler; if it does, there will be a tubing turn-around loop and hoses in the front of the front passenger wheel well. Has it been converted to carbs? What type of transmission does it have? If it has been sitting with old fuel in it for three years, you've got a lot of work and probably expense ahead of you. Cheers, Jim

[jluetjen]

In addition to what has already been described, if the car has not been started in the last 3 years, the first thing that I would do is drain the fuel tank and the lines. If it has carbs, I'd drain them too. Then fill it up with fresh gas from a well known manufacturer (Mobil-Exxon, Texico, etc.) as well as a bottle of Techron. You are going to need all of the detergent help that you can get. (BTW - I recently bought a generator which had been floor stock at Sears. The tank seemed to be almost empty so I filled it up and had neverending problems until I drained the tank and replaced it all with fresh gas. There's a message there... )

I would also recommend a complete oil and filter change. You might as well pull the plugs at the same time to make sure that they are OK. Be sure to pull the sump plate and clean it off well and replace it with a new gasket.

Before you try to start it, disconnect the coil wire and turn it over until you start to see some oil pressure on the guage. Then replace the coil wire and give it a shot.

If you are still having problems after that, I'd pull the plugs again and inspect them. If they have have really gunky black stuff all over them, you most likely still have some bad gas in the system. At that point you can try to drive through it or you will need to start taking things apart and cleaning them.

[Zendalar]

Concerning fuel tank....You might want to remove the fuel level sender and check the insides of the tank. My car had been sitting for 3 years and the tank..it was full of crap..Last summer I changed fuel filter twice a week and still there was crap when I cut the tank open last winter. I actually had to sandblast the thing from inside to get all the epoxified fuel and rust out.

When you remove the fuel level sender, try scraping the upper part of the tank interior (through the hole) with your finger. If you feel there is crap, i can tell you there is crap on the bottom too, and it won't come out with putting new gas in.

PS: My tank had heaps of crud...and i mean a lot.


911@b-faster.com

[David Bahr]

I'm resurrecting a 1973 911T targa that has sat for three years. That's three Davids doing three 911s that have sat unused for years... Weird?

Last weekend I pulled the tank and am doing the POR process, plus replacing some fuel lines as they were very brittle. I cleaned the cap and rotor and points were good. Cleaned and re-gapped plugs. Replaced spark plug wires ($$$). Car was MFI but was converted to carbs. I will rebuild the carbs as the gaskets leaks. [Winched it onto the trailer and the carbs were pissing a lot of gas.] I will run the fuel pump to drain the rest of the bad gas before I replace the carbs. Then a new fuel filter and do a valve adjustment.

I've had the twin batteries on a trickle charger; I hope I don't have to replace them! [More $$$]

Then pull the plugs, squirt oil in the cylinders, turn over twice by hand to ensure no seizing, crank the starter to build pressure, replace spark plugs, pull coil wire, crank again to build pressure, replace coil wire, say a prayer, and (I hope) start it.

[David Bahr]

Oh, the old gas was slightly green! But I had zero gook in the gas tank. Huh??? Did two steps of degreaser anyway, just to be sure.

[Jim Sims]

Bahr, May we assume you are changing the oil and oil filter before you attempt to start it? Depending upon where and how the car was stored I would also pull the alternator and look for nests and other debris on top of the cylinders/heads. New fluid needs to be bleed into the brakes. It is likely the rubber brake hoses are shot; replace them when you bled the brakes. Drain the tranny and replace the fluid with Swepco. Check the rear CV joint for torn boots/missing or loose screws. I have the 1972-1973 illustrated factory parts catalog if you need a part number. Cheers, Jim

[David Bahr]

Jim, yeah, I will do oil and filter. Still looking for a 12-quart drain pan, though! All of your suggestions are good ones.

Thanks!

[Jadams1]

Throw away aluminum turkey roasing pans work great.