What should a running idle stabilizer look like?
 

my '84 Carerra is running horribly, especially when cold and at idle warm or cold. It started behaving poorly a few weeks back but only when cold. I spent last evening out with the bentley, a DMM and a screwdriver diagnosing the idle stabilizer. The resistance across the terminals is correct, supply voltage is correct and it vibrates when running. The final procedure listed is to remove the hose from the intake side and view the inside of the sensor with the ignition in the on position, the manual says something to the effect that with the car warm it should be 1/2 open but I don't know what 1/2 open should look like. What I do see is a rotating metal... spindle... for lack of a better word kind of oscillating back and forth, really just kind of vibrating. Can anyone out there tell me if this is correct? With the valve removed I can hear a slight rattle when I shake the valve but only slight.

I ran out of time before I could diagnose the cyl head temperature sensor but I plan on doing that tonight. Any other ideas would certainly be appreciated...

My bet is the head temperature sensor. Try wiggling the (white) connector. If you're the clever type you can use resisters of different values to trick the head temp sensor. I think the head temp sensor ranges from 300 (hot) to 3600 ohms (really cold). I think I have that right, check your book. Try starting it with a "cold" value like 3K resister plugged into the head temp connector. I carry 3 resistors a "cold"/" warm"/"hot" in my tool kit for emergencies. It will get you home.
-Chris

I had that problem too. I changed the idle stabilizer, but it didn't have much impact really.
I had crappy injectors. It'll idle crappy but run fine when you bring up the RPMs. If it's JUST when it's cold, then you might be lucky. Really think about whether it's just when the car is cold or not though.
Try techron first...
Just disconnect the stabilizer hosing and plug it with your thumb, and you'll be able to see if it's doing anything or not. I also could not really figure out what the hell bentley wanted me to notice in that thing. My guess is, when you plug it, it won't make a difference one way or another.

Very good ideas
 

I like the carrying around a few resistors idea... why yes, I AM the clever type and happen to have many resistors! ;) I can see where having an envelope full of them and a Bentley could get you out of many jams...
I've just finished testing the cyl head sensor. It seems okay, started at around 1.7k (at 85F) and went through the full specified range and seemed to do so smoothly. Also tested the idle position switches and the air flow meter (and all supply voltages).
I'm going to replace the fuel filter (overdue) and do a vacuum test tomorrow night since the rain killed my plans for tonight... :(

Feels VERY much like a vacuum leak but I can't find one, even with starting fluid sprayed strategically into the likely spots...

mskar--regarding the head temp sensor. If it is the single lead type (only one wire) then your problem MAY be that the sensor isn't making a good ground connection. The sensor and the metal it screws into are dissimilar and a barrier corrosion forms between them ruining the sensor's grounding. You can check that by clipping a lead to the sensor body with the other end to a good ground thus providing a good ground circuit. By the way, that corroded ground connection was the reason MOST of the "failed" sensors were replaced with a TWO wire model.

SmileWavy