Jack Stands W/Suspension Removed

[jamesjedi]

I am using POR-15 to paint the under body of my car. I will need to remove the suspension to complete the job of stripping and repainting.

How should the car be placed on jack stands in order to facilitate my being safely under the car with the suspension removed?

I have 6 heavy duty jack stands, and a 3 1/2 ton floor jack. I need to know where to safely position the jacks.

Thanks for any input to make this a safe work area.

[RWebb]

pic 27 help any?

Yet Another Boring Rgruppe Car – Part II, Suspension

[JeremyD]

I put them (heavy duty jack stands) on the inside edges of the torsion bar tubes in the rear and put a flat piece of wood that went completely across the front bulkhead where the cabin meets the trunk.

[D911SC]

You might need to apply the POR15 in 2 stages.

For the rear the inner sections of the torsion tube will be OK. If you plan on painting those it will be easy to get to after the rest is painted and you can jack from another point (ie. torsion tubes in spring plate when suspension back together)

For the front you could use a piece of steel square tube (heavy duty) and bolt where the cross member goes. this will require drilling the holes through the steel tube. It might be possible to fit only the cross member without the A arms but you risk cracking it if the bolts are torqued too much - it relys on the A arm to be inserted so those bolts can be torqued properly

As you brush on POR15 I think the above would be a feasible way of doing it.

Be careful if you jack the car at a point more forward than the cross member area. If you still have the engine in the car there is obviously a weight bias to the rear. If your front jack stands are too far forward your car will turn into a one way 'see-saw'.

I spent a fair bit of time under my car with it on jack stands and engine in. I always used my jack and other stands as an insurance policy in case something went wrong. For example I had my engine supported by another stand - not actually lifted at that point but just there to take some weight if something collapsed.

I was super cautious but I'm here to tell the story - so I recommend you be 100% sure it's secure before spending extended periods of time underneath.

Good luck.

PS. As another point - if you intend to coat over the POR15 make sure you strictly follow the instructions on top coating. If you attempt to spray stone guard over the top such as Wurth SKS it just won't stick unless you prep it properly.

[JeremyD]

BTW - I don't like extended jack stands - I bought a big piece of lumber at Lowes and cut squares for my jack stands - and epoxied the pieces together.

You can see one of them right under my brake rotor here

[Icemaster]

Try this:

[jamesjedi]

Ice master, I have seen that diagram before. It is a little confusing. Does it mean that points B and D can be used? It would make sense.

Jeremy, I see you dont like extended jacks, I can understand that. I dont even like going under the car. I tend to do an "overkill" when under the car. Even with an overkill, there is still a chance for mishap due to the car becoming unbalanced when one part of the support system fails.

That rear area around the torsion tubes looks like it could be a bugger to get clean.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

you can use jackstands instead of the uprights I used on my dolly. 2 under the torsion bar tube, one under the front pan:

[JeremyD]

I've had a car fall on me. So yes I am all about diligence. Even on jack stands always stick a wheel or partially extend jack to break a fall. Working safe is working smart.

[combatic]

For the front (arrows) I notched a small 2x4 to fit on the seam then rested the block on the jackstands. For the rear you can rest the car on the Torsion tube to the inside similar to what Shaun is showing above (Shaun that is a great rig! I might have to build one!)

[jamesjedi]

Super help.

How did you raise the car on to the supports? Can they be lifted without too much chassis flex if it is raised from the sides?