Actually, the fit of the original door was pretty close with the repaired latch panel and quarter panel. I was careful and the alignment was not perfect but reasonably close. Of course that door probably had some alignment issues. I attempted to save that original door by re-skinning it. Unfortunately, the re-skinned door was out of shape and didn't align with my new replacement front fender at the FRONT edge - the rear edge aligned fine with the latch post. Disappointing. Maybe my replacement door is one that got hammered pretty good in its previous life. Last night I got out my big blue contour gauge and compared the right and left quarter panel just aft of the latchpost and they were pretty close. Despite all that, you may be right 78SCRSMAN. It is probably easier to cut and weld than to hammer. The front of the replacement door looks like it will easily align with the new fender as it has more adjustability.

Decisions, decisions....

Tonight I made more measurements of the quarterpanels near the latchposts and the problematic left side is close in contour to the undamaged pristine right side. I mounted the front fender and it mates very well with the front of the door. So, I figure the logical solution is the "twist the door" manuever with a block of wood or hammer in the jam.

I do have to ask how does one brace the block/hammer in the jam? I only see the rather thin metal holder for the weatherstripping which will certainly get bent. I jammed my plastic hammer in there and pushed in on the door a few times and realized that I better take the car off the jack stands first!

Well I went with the block in the door jam technique with success! You guys nailed it.

I first took the car off the jackstands and then fashioned a wooden block that would fit into the weatherstrip channel by screwing a wooden strip of about the same size as the channel to the block. That way, it would not fall out between "slams." The channel was plenty sturdy to stand up to the force.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338605006.jpg


Then I just slammed the door as hard as I could with my palms on the bottom rear of the door. I must have slammed it about 25 times. You don't have to be shy. But it gradually adjusted the door until the fit is acceptable.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338605211.jpg


I was impressed how much the gap at the top of the door closed up when I took the car off the jack stands.

You guys are great! Thanks for the tips.


Next task is trimming the door edges to get the gap consistent all around....

Nice work and well done. I suspect that Herr Dorfitter at the factory in the early 70's was a burly chap.

Thx for the update, good job! Can you post a pic of the block inserted in the channel for reference? Gonna save this thread for future reference. (just lost all 3-400 bookmarks I had when I synced my phone)

Hilarious! :)

Here's a photo of the block wedged into the weatherstrip slot. I cut the strip piece (see in previous post) so that it would fit snuggly into the slot without falling out between slams.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338660810.jpg

Thanks for the photo, Steve. Just a thought, but I would check fit with the anodized top trim of door and the rear quarter in place to see if they line up in case more adjustment is needed.

The top crease in the door and quarter panel align well although it may not be clear from the photo. I'll need to pull out the chrome strips and see where they lie. I imagine that there is some latitude with fitting the strips by drilling new holes if need be.

Well done

Nice work!

Don't forget some minor adjustments can still be made using factory door shims... That's what I've been doing this weekend :)