What is this part called?
 

In the engine compartment, just up under the edge of the rear of the opening where the lid meets it, there is what appears to be some dark gray almost black matt (sound deading matt?)? There are some "L" shaped brackets that surround the rear under the window and the matt seems to just hook into them and extend up to the back metal which looks like it is right under the beginning of the rear deck where the speakers are located. I see red metal and not the speakers, so I assume the speakers are accessed from inside the car.

This matt on mine is very dried out and sagging down and crumbling to the touch. Anyone have a name or part number so I can replace it?

Thanks

It's in the Pelican catalog. It's called a sound mat.

Try looking here

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_miscel_pg5.htm#item28

......one more note, a proper removal/installation will require removal of the motor :)

cheers
-Brad
80SC

Brad were you being sarcastic? I can go without it if you were serious!

Nope, not sarcastic, just a realist :) I suppose you *could* contort yourself and make it work, but the pad goes pretty far back and it's bound to be a mess after all these years.

Perhaps others will chime in, or start a new thread 'How to install sound pad'

cheers
-Brad

If you are willing to remove all of your induction hardware, the sound pad can be replaced with the engine in the car. Still a really big job.
Bill
'73 3.2 Carrera Targa
'70 2.2 S Coupe

Mine is basically hanging down... I felt, when I looked at it that it would slide out fairly easily if it didnt fall apart on the way out. I didnt explore it too much, but thought that it basically slid into the L brackets hanging down. I was more afraid of parts of it falling down on the engine and getting into something mechanical.

Serious method: Carefully remove air cleaner, and other easy stuff - put some clean rags in intakes, then cover entire engine with plastic.
Shop vac all of the loose stuff out as much as possible, as far down as possible.
Do not bend any of the tabs yet - the fewer times you bend them the less likely you are to lose one.
One you have all the loose stuff you can get out removed, you can removve the carbs, or FI if it is CIS. If it is MFI, you should not remove the pump, as the timing of this baby is not trivial, but the two sets of stacks, and the fuel lines will come out easily enough.
You should probably have spent about two or three hours to this point.
Put clean rags back in inlet holes, cover engine with plastic again, and then clean everything possible off of the engine room roof..
This is a good time to do a trial fit of the new mat against the internal wall, trim as needed
Might want to wear some cotton gloves from here onward, to save hands from adhesive, and to prevent scarring of new mat...
Using a fresh 3M adhesive (colors available to go with finish, black, clear, etc) and coat the metal thoroughly.
Make sure the mat you have is cut for all hinges, wires, etc, that protrude.
CAREFULLY open the tabs at the top at 90 deg.
Put some adhesive on the back of the mat, and ease into place, lower part first as low as you can get it.
Slowly press mat against wall as you go upward to the top edge. Make sure that it adheres well in the middle with no sags -3M spray adhesive handy here.
Once accurately in place and EVEN at top edge, CAREFULLY bend tabs back against new mat, not enough to compress - just hold in place.
Clean any debris from plastic cover, remove, remove cloth from inlets, then...
Refit all of your inlet gear (good time for linkage lube, new gaskets, insulators, plug wires, etc. etc.) as original, and you are all set.
Elapsed time with no side trips, about 4 to 5 hours, and you have a much better looking engine / engine room!!!

Regards,
Bill
'73 3.2 Carrera Targa
'70 2.2 S Coupe

When I bought my car, this pad was missing. When I had the engine out to do the clutch, I installed a new one.

Net difference in soud=Zero.

As far as I can tell, all that pad does is make your car heavier and your wallet lighter.

You should be able to remove it without dropping the engine, primarily because you don't care if it comes out intact. Just grab it and pull.

Tom

Yeah, you could do that too, but then you would be on the way to having "one of those cars" with parts missing...
BillSmileWavy first

worn deteriorated pad, can lead to overheating
 

when it wears out pieces break off and get sucked into the engine, clogging the fins around each cylinder resulting in reduced air flow and overheating.

I yanked mine out last night. It basically disintegrated in my hands. The only areas that were tough were back behind the hinges. The gray material flakes off and gets everywhere. I plugged the air box and wiped out all the rest.

I might think twice about putting a new one in. If the sound is ok, I will go with out.

I know I could put in some dynamat and just custom cut it to the areas I could reach which is about 80% of what the old one covered.