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have poly bronze all the way around. no issues.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling.
Old 06-22-2012, 03:37 PM
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I have all Elephant Racing suspension, and I love the rubber bushings.
I have heard alot of noise out of the poly bronze
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:02 PM
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I'm ordering the ER rubber bushings for the sway bars and control arms.

how much work involve with this upgrade? will it be a job for a basic diy guy or should I give the job for the pros?

btw,
a month ago I changes the tires and the steering wheel start to shake a little bit.

after 200 miles the Steering Column Support Bushing broke and start hearing noises from the front.

ordered the bushings for the column, swaybar and control arms and i'm going to take the car for a pro alignments.

Do you think that the shaking in the steering wheel cause all this? it seems like that but it always can be coincidence.

Thanks
Yaron
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1982 Black 911sc coupe
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2007 Harley Davidson Night Train (very customized)
1971 conv' beetle, 2332cc (sold )
Old 07-11-2012, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ybn533 View Post
I'm ordering the ER rubber bushings for the sway bars and control arms.

how much work involve with this upgrade?
It took me several hours but that included painting all of the metal components (i.e., sway bar, a-arms, brackets). After that, installation was fairly easy. Removing the old bushings was the most work but is still fairly easy.

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Vern

'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic (963-93), PMO ITB Injection and Electromotive Management
'88 944 Coupe - Nougat Brown Metalic
'74 914 Targa - Light Gray 2.0
Old 07-11-2012, 08:34 AM
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ER sends you the tools and the instructions are online. I had mine done by an experienced Porsche mechanic and he had to suffer a bit to get the bushings in, but we had powder coated the arms so maybe some painting there.
I'm sure Chuck could coach you on this. They are certainly worth it, my car feels like new and that was 2 years ago.You might want to do the top shock mounts too while your at it, ER offers these as well.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidybuoy View Post
It took me several hours but that included painting all of the metal components (i.e., sway bar, a-arms, brackets). After that, installation was fairly easy. Removing the old bushings was the most work but is still fairly easy.

Thanks.
I would like to know what involve with the disessemly of the parts from the car.
Is it easy or a job for for the pros?
the assembling will be the same I assume.
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2007 Harley Davidson Night Train (very customized)
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ybn533 View Post
Thanks.
I would like to know what involve with the disessemly of the parts from the car.
Is it easy or a job for for the pros?
the assembling will be the same I assume.
Disassembly is not difficultbut it is helpful if you've done some automotive work before. There is literature out there that gives you step-by-step instructions and one source is Pelican tech tips Pelican Technical Article: 911 Front Suspension Bushing Replacement

In a nutshell:

1) jack up car and support (somewhere but not from a-arms)
2) remove wheels
3) disconnect ball joint from bottom of strut - remove nut 90% and then tap out pinch bolt that holds the strut to the ball joint - look on pelican for tech tip on ball joints. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/57-Ball_Joint/57-Ball_Joint.htm
3b) Once the pinch bolt is removed from the strut, you can jack up from the rotor and this will seperate the strut from the ball joint.
4) remove torsion bar adjuster
5) remove all bolts holding a-arms (I think it's 3 front and one rear)

At this point, follow the directions in the pelican tech tips to remove old rubber bushings. I used a torch (can of propane and cheap torch from Harbor Freight). You can also see this done on the ER Video posted above.

note: keep track of your torsion bars - there's a left and right and not always stamped.

6) Clean everything up & paint, if desired.
7) Install new stuff - per video and printed instructions.
8) Reassemble and adjust the ride height back to your settings - best to measure the car settings before starting this project.


I had never done this before but if you have some mechanical skills and a decent/basic too box and can read directions - anyone can do this job. BTW, ER charges $500 to do this for you and that's after you disassemble and send them your parts.

Vern
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'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic (963-93), PMO ITB Injection and Electromotive Management
'88 944 Coupe - Nougat Brown Metalic
'74 914 Targa - Light Gray 2.0

Last edited by Tidybuoy; 07-11-2012 at 12:40 PM..
Old 07-11-2012, 12:37 PM
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Tidybuoy how do you like them, do you still need an alignment?
Old 07-11-2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidybuoy View Post
Disassembly is not difficultbut it is helpful if you've done some automotive work before. There is literature out there that gives you step-by-step instructions and one source is Pelican tech tips Pelican Technical Article: 911 Front Suspension Bushing Replacement

In a nutshell:

1) jack up car and support (somewhere but not from a-arms)
2) remove wheels
3) disconnect ball joint from bottom of strut - remove nut 90% and then tap out pinch bolt that holds the strut to the ball joint - look on pelican for tech tip on ball joints. Pelican Technical Article: Replacing the Ball Joints - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)
3b) Once the pinch bolt is removed from the strut, you can jack up from the rotor and this will seperate the strut from the ball joint.
4) remove torsion bar adjuster
5) remove all bolts holding a-arms (I think it's 3 front and one rear)

At this point, follow the directions in the pelican tech tips to remove old rubber bushings. I used a torch (can of propane and cheap torch from Harbor Freight). You can also see this done on the ER Video posted above.

note: keep track of your torsion bars - there's a left and right and not always stamped.

6) Clean everything up & paint, if desired.
7) Install new stuff - per video and printed instructions.
8) Reassemble and adjust the ride height back to your settings - best to measure the car settings before starting this project.


I had never done this before but if you have some mechanical skills and a decent/basic too box and can read directions - anyone can do this job. BTW, ER charges $500 to do this for you and that's after you disassemble and send them your parts.

Vern
Thanks Tidybuoy

How do I set the height after?

Thanks
Yaron
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dublinoh View Post
Tidybuoy how do you like them, do you still need an alignment?
The alignment feels ok but to be precise, it probably needs to get professionally aligned. I will do this after I replace my ball joints and tie-rod ends. I've got to take things slow or go broke quick.

Any change to the ride height will affect the alignment as the angle of the tie-rods will either pull in or push out the toe.
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'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic (963-93), PMO ITB Injection and Electromotive Management
'88 944 Coupe - Nougat Brown Metalic
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ybn533 View Post
How do I set the height after?

Thanks
Yaron
At the rear of each torsion bar is an adjustment bolt. Tightening turns will raise the car and loosening (counter clock wise) will lower the car. The car must be jacked up to raise the car but can be on the ground for lowering. Generally it is done is small increments and then measure from the ground to the center of the fender well.

Pelican Technical Article: Lowering the 911 - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidybuoy View Post
At the rear of each torsion bar is an adjustment bolt. Tightening turns will raise the car and loosening (counter clock wise) will lower the car. The car must be jacked up to raise the car but can be on the ground for lowering. Generally it is done is small increments and then measure from the ground to the center of the fender well.

Pelican Technical Article: Lowering the 911 - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)
So if the car is balanced now will I have to touch it?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:52 PM
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How do you know the car is balanced now? If you have any significant wear/deflection in your existing bushings I'd re-align and balance the car afterwards. In fact, I'd do it anyway if the suspension was apart.

JR
Old 07-12-2012, 04:12 AM
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The debate about rubber bushes has been going on for years.

There are some Rubber bushes that are just a slip-in fit and have no radial compression and as pointed out on the ER website they are quite poor.

There is a bush that Porsche supplies 914.341.422.00.

This is listed as a 'Rubber Stop' for 65-68 911s and is used on the front of the control arm and is held in place by the old two piece clamp.

If you fit this bush into the later control arm it does work very well and has to be stretched into place.

You can also fit them into the rear control arm bush housing as well.

Currently Porsche sell these parts for about $17.00 each.

We have used them in control arm refurbishment for about 6 years now and have no issues.
Old 07-12-2012, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ybn533 View Post
So if the car is balanced now will I have to touch it?
Unfortunately, replacing the bushings requires the removal of the torsion bars and the adjusting end piece. it's unlikely that when you put it all back together, the ride height will be identical to what it was before you started. However, making the adjustments is not difficult at all.

In my case, when I finished the project and set the car back down on the ground, the front end was about 4" too high. I just layed on the ground and turned the adjusters about 6 full turns each. Then drove the car a mile or so and then remeasured the height. It required one more adjustment of about 1 full turn on each side. The height adjustment process took about 10 minutes and is the easiest part of the project.
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'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic (963-93), PMO ITB Injection and Electromotive Management
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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Four inches? Were LCAs tightened while suspension was in "droop" mode?

I haven't done mine yet, but do LCAs need to be torqued with the car on the ground to avoid stressing bushings and binding up the suspension as per other types of cars?
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by manbridge 74 View Post
Four inches? Were LCAs tightened while suspension was in "droop" mode?

I haven't done mine yet, but do LCAs need to be torqued with the car on the ground to avoid stressing bushings and binding up the suspension as per other types of cars?
I'm not sure what LCA's are but when I reinstalled the torsion bars, I installed the adjusters in the raised position. I figured that with the car jacked up, that simulates the fully raised position so I put the adjuster on and the bolt fully screwed in. This way, I would have maximum lowering leverage. 4" sounds like a lot but it only takes about 1 turn on the adjuster to drop the car a inch.
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'74 911 Coupe - Silber Metalic (963-93), PMO ITB Injection and Electromotive Management
'88 944 Coupe - Nougat Brown Metalic
'74 914 Targa - Light Gray 2.0
Old 07-12-2012, 03:52 PM
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LCA = Lower Control Arm, or just control arm for our cars.

I just bought all of the new rubber Elephant Racing bushings as well for my '75 911S. Looking forward to getting them installed and hoping it will tighten things up a bit.
Old 07-12-2012, 04:19 PM
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