I think I screwed up bigtime....

[Vipergrün]

Long story short. Heard some timing chain rattle. Inspected pressure-fed tensioners, idler arms (later type), and replaced the old, pitted ramps. I double checked my work, buttoned things up and started the car and got a terrible knocking noise. Shut the car after in a split second.

Even though I tied off the chain at the cam sprockets so there was no chance of movement, I did have to create some slack in the chain to R&R the ramps. There was already slack in the chain on each side due to removing the tensioners. I simply lifted/pulled on the chain to get the slack where I needed it.
I had no trouble getting the idler arms and tensioners back in.

Could I have screwed up the timing some how causing the valves to hit the pistons or something? No tools are missing. I have no idea what caused the knocking, or how to tell what damage may have been done.

I appreciate any and all input.

thanks
-Brad
80SC (sick)

[Superman]

If the chain did not slip, then the valves would not be hitting any pistons. In fact, I think that even if the chain slipped a tooth, that valves may still be safe from pistons, but I;m not sure. If a valve hit a piston, then the valve would bend. So, if you remove the valve covers and do a valve adjustment, you will find any valves with HUGE clearances.

Did you pull the pins out of the tensioners?

[Vipergrün]

Thanks Superman...

Yes, I pulled the pins out of the tensioners

Actually, even tho the chain did not move on the sprocket, I think I could have turned one cam and not the other when getting the slack I needed. Is that possible? Do I need to time the cams?

-Brad

[john walker's workshop]

i'd start it again and give the tensioners a few seconds to pump up, before opening it up again. sounds like nothing could have moved from what you describe.

[john walker's workshop]

you don't need much slack to swap a ramp. if the pin wasn't removed from the cam sprocket, nothing should have changed. if the chain jumped a tooth, i think you would have noticed something was different, chain slop-wise.

[Vipergrün]

Thanks John.

I have taken it apart again.....

I did notice that the passenger side idler arm *can* hit one of the little ridges in the back of the cam housing if it moves up and down. Makes a knocking noise. The drivers side does not do this. Is this normal? Maybe the tensioner was not fully pumped up and allowed the idler arm to move a bit?

Thanks again.

-Brad

[jkeyzer]

If you removed the distributor for some reason (to remove the oil lines on the driver's side perhaps) you may have it one tooth off now. I did this the first time.

[Vipergrün]

Thanks jkeyzer..

Did not remove the distributor (thanfully).

I'm still wondering about the right side idler arm being able to *hit* the back side of the housing when it moves. These are the later style arms, so, no spacer is required.

I appreciate your input.

-Brad