Need Help Removing Short Flexible Oil Hoses from Hard Lines

[polizei]

Guys - I'm in the process of cleaning the front auxiliary oil cooler and lines in my '87 Carrera. I successfully removed the cooler from the Short Flexible Oil Lines but I'm having trouble separate these from the hard lines. I've been spraying with PB blast since the weekend and tapping with a hammer, but the bugger won't budge.

Any recommendations?

I have a new set of Short Flexible Lines, so I'm thinking about cutting them off with a dremel and then using a deem 36mm socket to remove them fully. Thoughts?

[sc_rufctr]

It may be best to completely remove the hard lines from the car. That way you can clamp them in a vice and then remove the soft lines.
It's not a lot of work but you have to remove the hard lines from the thermostat and the lines could also be stuck there.

Or remove the entire oil line assembly including the soft lines going to the oil tank and engine.
Probably a good idea in the long run. You'll have to opportunity to clean everything 100% before putting everything back.

I personally wouldn't use a Dreeml to cut the lines because I'm paranoid about steel grindings finding their way into the oil lines.
But if you feel confident then go for it.

[BoxsterGT]

You don't need to dremel thru the nut, just cut deep enough in 2 or 3 places to weaken it. Be careful not to go thru into the threads.

Should be lots of info here on this with photos if you do a search.

Len

[wildcat077]

Andy,

Use lots of heat ... preferably with Mapp gas as it burns a little hotter than propane !
When i separated my two short lines that go to to the cooler i just kept applying heat,then PB Blaster,more heat ... etc ...
Finally came loose without destroying the threads !

Cheers !
Phil

[scotricker]

You could use two wrenches and a a clamp like this:




It worked for me on the big engine oil line. Just keep on clicking the clamp closed, and the threads will work loose without bending the hard line. first, of course, use all the PB blaster and heat, etc, too.

[ludvikagard]

Try heat before anything else, especially since You have new flex lines, and dont need to worry about damage of rubber. Heat will solve your problem. Probably enough with propane. Heat a lot, and then a perfect grip, best with open end spanner and the connections will loosen up without to much violence. Make shore you clean inside of hard lines after.

(and heat only the nut to the right on picture, turn that one and make shore You keep the left one still)

[redridge]

Ive just went through this, I went with the dremel route and all is well. You have to release the tension, so I cut in two places and chiseled out that section that was dremeled (maybe 1/4" chunk). Came out with little effort turn of an adjustable wrench.

The prob with these connection is not so much on how tight the threads are, but the way the inner coupling gets pressed inside the other half of the fitting when they are joined. So heating them will take a long time as getting the pressed coupling is beneath the nut and threaded fitting, so there is a couple of layers the heat has to go through.

[polizei]

Guys - I'm a novice do-it-yourself'r, and I don't even have a torch! Can someone make a recommendation?

[redridge]

Home depot sells kits of map gas...

[ludvikagard]

A small propane torch is cheap. Apply heat to the right nut for a couple of minutes, make shore You have a perfect grip with wrench or spanner, move fast, keep the left fitting still (part of hard line) and turn the right nut. When the nut is loose, keep your wrench on the left fitting and carefully hit the flex line with a hammer, or break it lose by "wiggling" it by hand close to the loose nut, and You Will feel the flex line come lose.

[polizei]

I just bought a Bernzomatic TS4000 Torch from Amazon. I'll try to tackle this bugger on Thursday. Thanks guys!

[boyt911sc]

Andy,

You met me the other day, I'm about twice your age, 134 lbs. soak and wet, with a bad back and knee, and yet I've been breaking these oil lines regularly with ease. Like what most people suggested, you need heat application and penetrating oil, leverage (see Scot's version), using the correct tools, and most of all an effective technique or method. While these oil lines connections could be separated while on the car, removing the whole assembly and working on it would be more convenient. Is the car on jack stands or lift?

Due to the extreme weather condition today, I've been advised by my family to stay indoor and stay in the basement and that's what I'm doing now. Since you have removed the two (2) oil lines under the right rear wheel well, auxiliary thermostat, and Carrera cooler, everything except these 2 brass oil lines are remaining (plus 2 short flex lines). Drop them to the floor and you'll find it easy on your back when you have more room and leverage doing this type of job. Try it first with the oil lines in place.

You don't need brute force or strength to overcome these stubborn connections. It's all about technique and a flick of the wrist. Keep us posted.

Tony

[polizei]

Tony - Thank you for the encouragement and direction. I've ordered a torch to help with loosening the nuts and will continue trying.

You're wise to stay inside today. It's days like today that actually make me want to stay at work longer and enjoy the A/C! Thanks again for your help over the weekend.

[d.a.autry]

BTW. . . . . when you put it back together. . . use ridiculous amounts of anti-seize . . .I mean, go plaid with the stuff, just as long as you're not getting any inside the lines.

You may not ever have to take them apart again, but the few $$'s on the anti-seize may help you out in the long run if you ever do.

[CCM911]

Andy - I used a Dremel to cut the old nut on my rear oil line. That should work on your's as well. If you are still having problems, let me know and I will stop by on Saturday with my Dremel and a cold chisel. Trust me, those puppies WILL come off! And if Tony and I can do it, then so can you.