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911 Structural Question

I recall reading an article that insisted the 911 tub (minus exterior sheetmetal such as rockers and quarters) was the sole source of the car's strength and that they can be run without the outer metal. The reason I'm asking is because I still have the tubing matrix in place that supported my car when it was cut in half and I believe it's safe to remove now that the floor, longitudinals, inner rockers, torque tube and rear shelf/seat back area are all permanently in place.

The heel panel and rear seat bottom are the only pieces yet to be installed and the support tubes are really getting in the way. Plus, I'm tired of hitting my head upon entry/egress.

Should I keep these in place until the quarters, heel panel et al. are in place or is it safe to assume that the car is as strong as it's going to be? You can see the bars in this pic. Will go shoot a pic of car as it sits if necessary but it will mean moving a sleeping dog.


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1968 911P (Paperweight)
Old 06-23-2012, 11:04 AM
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In my humble opinion, the two guys to chat with on this topic are Steve Weiner and Tyson Schmidt. Those two guys know where, and how, a 911 chassis is stiff or flexible, and how to increase rigidity. A 911 chassis is pretty stiff, for a vehicle of its construction and vintage. But it's not completely rigid. Like any car, the surest and most effective way to achieve substantially more rigidity is to weld in a roll cage that connects the front strut towers to each other and to the rear strut towers. Of course. But again, if you're wanting to think outside the box, talk to Steve or Tyson.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:50 AM
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Why isn't this in the technical section? Why are you bespoiling our political discussion with this nonsense about cars? Be gone with ye!
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:10 PM
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Tech question, Porsche content, 911 specific...I have seen a good forum for those cars somewhere.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:15 PM
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Yeah, yeah. The SMART people hang out over here, though.
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968Cayman View Post
Yeah, yeah. The SMART asses hang out over here, though.
Fixed it for ya.

Sorry man that was just way too easy
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:37 PM
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I wanna know why you cut your car in half?
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:37 PM
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There was nothing solid to weld to so I ended up replacing every piece of metal from the floorpan to about 18" up all around. The car had it coming.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:05 PM
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also, call Dave at TRE

in any event, you should stiffen the car while it is all apart -- he has done that and I hear the results were phenomenal -- he might have some parts to sell you to make it easy too
Old 06-23-2012, 02:05 PM
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Stiffening a car does achieve phenomenal results. Whole new ball game.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:17 PM
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I'm hoping it's strong as it sits- I seam welded the chassis and replaced the old rear 'frame' & longitudinals with new pieces made from 14 ga steel.

And the JB Weld I used on all of this said 'professional strength' . . . so I have that going for me.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:18 PM
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the seam weld is good, but there are some pieces that can be added - I don't know what, exactly but call Dave B., Steve & Tyson - that is a pretty high level brain trust

- don't make the mistakes I made - do it all up now instead of thinking about how you wish you had known what could be done...
Old 06-23-2012, 02:20 PM
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Should be in tech, where all the really really smart guys are.
More big pics please. Unique opportunity to see the basic skeleton on which everything is based.
Old 06-23-2012, 04:06 PM
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More answers to the question of why I cut the car in half.



Note that, while the actual rear seat pans were cut out via plasma cutter, nature removed the longitudinal from the heater hole all the way to the pedal box area (and back around the other side of the car). All I had to do to pull the floor off was drill out the spots on the tunnel flange. The jaggedness along the frame (superimposed on the fan) is not from sloppy torch wielding!! The entire car was like that.

Good news is that, though it has taken me 6 years to do so, I can now laugh in the face of the gentleman at Excellence who suggested- in print, mind you- the vehicle was to be considered as nothing but a mere, "parts car" that would take entirely too much time and money to restore.

And all for under $5K!! Um, personal time, tools and shaping/forming classes not included.
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:33 PM
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plasma cutter cost not included either
Old 06-24-2012, 08:08 PM
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stomachmonkey View Post
I wanna know why you cut your car in half?
I wanna know why you cut your hair in half?

Sorry man that was just way too easy..
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
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plasma cutter cost not included either
Luckily, the plasma cutter (Thermal Dynamics Drag-Gun, with its own air!) was just borrowed for a year. Back in 2006! This project is really taking a looooong time!

Quote:
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I wanna know why you cut your hair in half? Sorry man, that was just way too easy..
I was beautiful with hair. Really. Striking, even.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:37 AM
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OH MY GOD!! STEEL WOOL IS FLAMMABLE!! Somebody should warn people about this!!
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1968 911P (Paperweight)
Old 06-25-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968Cayman View Post
I recall reading an article that insisted the 911 tub (minus exterior sheetmetal such as rockers and quarters) was the sole source of the car's strength and that they can be run without the outer metal. ..
Fenders will add to the rigidity of the whole, so the Q is whether you can weld them on w/o pulling significantly on the tub. Read: tack here, tack over there... lather rinse repeat. ( I would feel okay with removing the super structure once the main tub was done)

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Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth.
More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
Old 06-25-2012, 11:48 AM
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