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-   -   A/C Testing and/or Removal Questions (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/687822-c-testing-removal-questions.html)

VaSteve 07-08-2012 09:13 AM

A/C Testing and/or Removal Questions
 
When I bought my 83SC eight years ago, the PO had paid thousands of dollars to get it running right. In the few times I used it, it seemed to be near worthless. I'd either roll with the windows down or drive a different car if it was too hot.

Yesterday, it was about 102° and I went to an autocross. On the way back, I turned the a/c on (with the windows still open) just to see if it blew any cool air. It blew hot.

I haven't done anything with the a/c except turn it on and off for a few minutes every once in a while. Not regularly like the 101 Projects book recommends.

I know turning it on for a 102° day was asking a lot of a lousy system, but how do I determine if it actually works? And on the cheap...no dyes, pressure testing or recharging.

Second, I'm figuring if it has all leaked out, I might as well remove it from the car. I saw a fellow at the track with an older 911 and the next time I saw him, the whole rear was jacked up. He claimed it was from removing the compressor. Sounds ridiculous, right? Anyway, I was thinking that if I pulled it all out, I don't want to have to get the ride height set again. I know it's heavy but by that much?

SilberUrS6 07-08-2012 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaSteve (Post 6845653)
...but how do I determine if it actually works? And on the cheap...no dyes, pressure testing or recharging.

Your requirements are mutually exclusive. If you want to figure out if it works or even will work, you're going to have to spend money. Probably more than a couple of hundred bucks. Maybe not much more, but still...

If the guy spent thousands to get the system going, then he must have replaced a LOT of stuff. I can't see why you wouldn't go the last $500 to make sure the system is in good shape and ready for years of very cold air production. So here are two thoughts:

1.) Figure out what the guy put in, ask in here what those parts might bring on the used market, and sell them in the parts section so you have some extra cash. (Tear out the whole system.) This will decrease the resale value of the car some, for some potential buyers.

2.) Figure out what the guy put in, then call Charlie Griffiths to have him help you get the system actually working - and not just working for this year, but next year and the year after that... Which *increases* resale value for those same potential buyers.

The first way puts some money in your pocket and reduces the weight of the car, and you're no worse off than you were before in a climate-control sense. The second way means you can drive the car on the days where you might have taken "the other car" because of the AC choice.

Joe Bob 07-08-2012 11:53 AM

My 83 came with an aftermarket A/C. The R-12 refrigerant is expensive (now) due to the EPA rules and R-134 wasn't something I wanted to deal with at the time.

I found that the installed non-barrier hoses leak. Back in 83, R-12 was cheap and most people didn't mind recharging every summer. I yanked it all out....I didn't live in an area that got that hot.

The fix is replacing the hoses with modern barrier type, fixing any leaks and converting the non-compatible components to ones that can tolerate R-134.

kuehl 07-09-2012 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaSteve (Post 6845653)

.... how do I determine if it actually works? And on the cheap...no dyes, pressure testing or recharging.

Engine running, neutral, brake on:
AC fan speed switch turned CW.
AC Thermostat switch turned CW.
Open engine deck lid, exam outer hub of compressor clutch, if it is turning in unison with the pulley then the compressor "might" be pumping.
Close engine deck lid. Open front trunk. Pull back carpets to expose Smugglers Trap Door. Open the door. Exam the evaporator outlet pipe, it should be sweating to cold. Exam the hose leading to the expansion valve, it should be warm to hot.

These are just simple 'checks' for a normally functioning system.




Quote:

Originally Posted by VaSteve (Post 6845653)
I saw a fellow at the track with an older 911 and the next time I saw him, the whole rear was jacked up. He claimed it was from removing the compressor. Sounds ridiculous, right? I know it's heavy but by that much?

Compressor brackets for an SC... about 10 lbs
York compressor for an SC... about 20 lbs
Deck lid condenser... about 7 lbs

Total for SC parts here about 42 lbs max
Total for a Carrera about 33 lbs max.
(all numbers are conservative + side).

Sounds imaginatively interesting. I'd say the lift was the result of liposuction.

VaSteve 07-09-2012 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuehl (Post 6846814)
Engine running, neutral, brake on:
AC fan speed switch turned CW.
AC Thermostat switch turned CW.
Open engine deck lid, exam outer hub of compressor clutch, if it is turning in unison with the pulley then the compressor "might" be pumping.
Close engine deck lid. Open front trunk. Pull back carpets to expose Smugglers Trap Door. Open the door. Exam the evaporator outlet pipe, it should be sweating to cold. Exam the hose leading to the expansion valve, it should be warm to hot.

These are just simple 'checks' for a normally functioning system.


That's great advice. The kind of thing I was looking for. My regular cars sweat like a beast when it's hot. I never thought of checking for that (or where) on the 911.



Quote:

Originally Posted by kuehl (Post 6846814)

Sounds imaginatively interesting. I'd say the lift was the result of liposuction.


Yeah seemed a little odd to me as well.

Bob Kontak 07-10-2012 06:00 AM

I drove comfortably in my 81 with windows rolled up from Charlotte to Akron yesterday with my Griffith's Tech rotary compressor and suction side barrier hose he sold me in the late 1990's. The rest is stock except for a recent receiver dryer. System is fully charged with R12.

That was highway speed and it was maybe 90 degrees. Had to turn the blower down in the mountains. I also lost cool air because of Targa leaks.

The system can be made to work. It may not be comfortable at 100 degrees in city traffic but it will blow cold if functioning.

kuehl 07-10-2012 07:20 AM

Comment from a client this morning....
Has a 1988, 930, Black Top Convertible, driving in Georgia:

"Works great....104 degrees out..but low humidity....38 at vent.
This is a black convertable...so not bad. Thanks, B.E."


Installed:
Kuehl 930 Serpentine Deck Lid Condenser
Kuehl Rear Serpentine Fender Condenser
Kuehl Rev 1 Serpentine Front Condenser
Kuehl Barrier Hose set with low-high pressure switch
Kuehl Drier
Kuehl Variable Speed Fan Controller
Kuehl Evaporator
Kuehl Center Vent
Charged with R134a

diabolical 07-13-2012 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuehl (Post 6849055)
Installed:
Kuehl 930 Serpentine Deck Lid Condenser
Kuehl Rear Serpentine Fender Condenser
Kuehl Rev 1 Serpentine Front Condenser
Kuehl Barrier Hose set with low-high pressure switch
Kuehl Drier
Kuehl Variable Speed Fan Controller
Kuehl Evaporator
Kuehl Center Vent
Charged with R134a

How much $ is that in parts?

djcdmv 07-14-2012 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diabolical (Post 6856013)
How much $ is that in parts?

Would like to know also.

RSTarga 07-14-2012 05:05 AM

Nobody said comfort was going to be cheap

SilberUrS6 07-14-2012 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diabolical (Post 6856013)
How much $ is that in parts?

In technical terms, a metric buttload.

Here's the deal: The stuff is high quality, and the support is top-notch. You want to be nice and cool on a hot day? Talk to Griff, and buy his stuff if you want to fix it and be done with it.

AC is not a system to do piecemeal upgrades to, IMO


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