The S caliper has two bleed nipples per wheel. Not recognizing this caused simmilar problems for me last winter. Just a thought.

+1 on the Motive Power. It made life easier.

I respectfully disagree. It may make things easier (and messy maybe), but it is not necessary. Fully agree though that a pressure bleeder is the way to go.

What's referred to as a bench bleed - can also be done with the master installed in the car...just crack the lines that come out of the master and give it some pedal like you do at the bleeder....Then proceed to the calipers...

The reason to not go with a full stroke of the pedal doesn't really apply to a new or rebuilt master.....Usually applies to an old one that might have rust in the bottom 1/2 where the piston doesn't usually travel....Sometimes this adbrasive condition can nick up a good piston/seal assembly....

Assuming the pedal board is installed.......

Started the day by installing the back calipers the correct way. Nipple up. Don't ask... Checked the feed lines and found I had these crossed mmmm. The connection to the MC straightened out nicely. ( I took a picture of these before I took the car apart. They were not correct then). I went for Mick's (M-Temp) tip to test the MC and disconnected the brake lines from the MC and connected bleed nipples directly to the MC ports. I bleed the MC as you would the calipers. Front port bleed OK but the back seemed to get the same symptoms of air getting in. Decide to shut the nipple and test the peddle. The peddle moved only a little but I noticed something as I was inside the car looking at the peddle and feeder lines. As I tested the peddle small bubbles of air came out out of the feeder lines and ran back up to the reservoir. I worked the peddle quite a few times until the bubbles stopped appearing. I guess this is a way of bleeding the MC on the car rather than bench bleeding. The peddle ten barley moved. I clamped the overflow line from the reservoir and screwed the cap on tight. Connected the brake lines. Very little fluid came out due to the overflow being clamped. I then went for H-Vikens tip. Connected elevated bleed lines on calipers starting at the rear offside caliper. It was then I had a to laugh. The whole operation started to look like an episode from ER. Looked like a 911 on a drip feed. However, I kept the reservoir topped up as the lines started to fill. Noticed the air coming out of the calipers and closed the nipple when the fluid reach the same elevation as the resevoir, by which point the bubbles had stopped. Did this on all four calipers. Rear offside, rear nearside, front offside, front nearside. Never touched the brake peddle, used minimum brake fluid, one man operation, no pressure bleeders. Unbelievable! Brakes are now rock solid. Have to run the car and now and recheck it all.
Having analised the hole thing, and despite my plumbing errors, I reckon bleeding by pumping the peddle gives a false impression at the bleed nipple. I am now totally convinced that air was being sucked in at the nipple as the peddle retracts only to be pushed out at the next stroke. Making me think that air was till in the system. Even if the nipple is only a 1/4 turn open and greased.
I'll never try to pressure bleed a system on a car without trying the above, natural venting approach first.
Thanks to all but espesially Mick, (M-TEMP) and H-Vikens for a different approach and Schmicat for convincing me there is some air lurking in that MC but there are other ways to get it out.

Have a good weekend all.

A very happy bleeder. ( I guess you may have to be English to undestand that :-))