Can't Install Right Chain Tensioner
 

Pelicans -

I don't know what the heck is going on. But my cam seal replacement has turned into a multi-weekend ordeal. If something could go wrong, it has. Maybe it is because I skipped church to work on my car. :eek:

So now I'm at the point where I've replaced the cam seals, performed the cam timing, and installed the left side chain tensioner.

For the life of me I can't install the tensioner on the right side. I've primed the tensioner in oil and installed the pin. Yet when I try to install it I can't get the idler arm high enough to slide the tensioner underneath. I even recruited my wife to pull up on the idler arm while I compressed the tensioner as far as it would compress (using channel locks)... still can't get it in.

I don't remember having any issues like this during the rebuild years ago. The left side was easy as pie. Anyone care to shed some light? Has anyone experienced this before?

FWIW I installed to cam sprockets. Is it possible that the chain is riding higher on the teeth resulting is less chain slack?

Thanks,
Craig

Sounds like you have chain inside that needs to be released. Try turning the crank pulley forward. If it doesnt work for you or hangs up, turn backwards to get the chain to free up.
Edit, you never had timing on the right side but youre suposed to pin both cams at the same time with tensioners in place so it sounds like youre starting over after you get both tensioners in place
Bruce

Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try.

I timed the cams with a vice on the left and a mechanical tensioner on the right (per Wayne's book). I never really understood why the tensioners wouldn't be installed first.

Once I get the right side installed I will obviously be confirming the cam timing ... and might even have to do it all over again.

Mechanical tensioners.......
 

Craig,

If I remember correctly, you were using clamps instead of mechanical (solid) tensioners? I just installed the Carrera tensioners in the engine I was rebuilding after we spoke over the phone. It took me a few mins. to install and tighten the 8-mm nuts. It's a matter of pulling the 'mechanical tensioner or clamp' out and sliding the hydraulic tensioner in. Your failure or difficulty to install back the hydraulic tensioner and idler sprocket could only mean that timing chain 'play' has been shortened by an accidental movement or missed-gear of the chain link at the intermediate gear (inside crank case). And I had that happened a few times too.

Tilt the engine to the right and left the 4-5-6 timing chain hang loose. Slowly rotate the crank shaft CW a few degree and back CCW a few degree too. You'll get the kink free. But the problem you are having now is that the cam timing setting for the right side could now be compromised (???).

I could send the Stromski Mechanical tensioners to you in case you might need them. I'll be leaving for Australia on Monday and have no need for these till I get back end of August for another cam timing job. PM me your address and if you want to talk to Bruce, I'll give his number too. I'll give you a call tonight.

Tony

The chain doesn't have any binding. Then engine turns cleanly and freely.

Tony just called and brought to my attention that a hangar wire might not be thick enough to pin the tensioner. Gonna try a drill bit or nail (something thicker) so that the piston will be more compressed.

Night all!

How many miles are on these chains? Few enough that you would need the extra compression from a thicker wire? I ask because I changed out a tensioner a few months ago, and my chains were understandably getting a little long and didn't need much compression of the tensioner to get it installed... Sure sounds like something is binding up your chain to not allow it to sit right.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 336k miles

I got it installed this morning. Followed Tony's advice and used a thicker pin - a drill bit. Was able to fully compress the piston, pin it, and slide it in easily.

@Chuck.H ... chain only has 15k miles on it. I used a new chain during my rebuild a few years back.

Everything look okay on both sides?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342619013.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342619034.jpg

Precision tool......
 

Craig,

This is a good example when people used cheap parts when working on 911 engine rebuild. Instead of using a hardened drill bit or a galvanized nail, you opted for your wife's cloth hanger from the laundry mat. And I didn't see an engine stand in the pictures? Is the engine block sitting on a plywood board? Are you this cheap and frugal like me??? Good job!!!

Glad you solved it. I was not really sure last night it was your problem and was more inclined that the cause would be the timing chain getting off track. How's the weather down south? The the heat and humidity are unbearable around here in Philadelphia today. Well, a few more days and I'm heading downunder (Sydney) with the family. Nice talking to you.

Tony

I have the engine sitting on a table lift (which I LOVE). Didn't need the engine stand since I didn't need to spin / rotate the engine.

I recall using a thick nail as the pin during the rebuild. I kinda flaked out by using a cut piece of hangar this time around. Live and learn.

Weather is hot and humid. My garage isn't conditioned but I do have 2 dehumidifiers running and a fan which makes it somewhat bearable.

Thanks for the call last night Tony. Much appreciated!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342624562.jpg

Glad you solved it!

Regarding the A/C, I swear by the 'mini-split' A/C systems sold by the various Asian manufacturers. I had a Mitsubishi unit for years, now I have a Samsung, both are great for cooling (and optionally heating) small spaces. They can be self installed (though not technically supposed to according to Manufacturer) as they have the r410 held back by valves; just vacuum the tubing and open the valves.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 336k miles

Chuck,

Those a/c units are super nice - and they look sharp too.

The only problem is that I'm not allowed to enclose my garage b/c I'm on the marsh (flood zone). It has to be 50% open. I installed those blue styrofoam panels over the louvres in order to keep the dirt and pollen out - the panels will also break away with ease in the event of a flood.

Craig