Suspension refresh options

[privatepang]

Hey all,

Just been advised by a mechanic that my suspension is pretty worn and needs refreshing. Been trying to read up on suspensions in our cars and its a bit confusing.

I had a look at the ER website and searched here on pelican and curious if people have recommendations for a street set up. I've had coilovers in prior cars before and can live with the ride comfort but just not sure if its different in 911's.

ELEPHANT RACING Suspension Diagrams for Porsche 911/912/930

As there seems to be so many more components in our standard set up, do most people refresh with torsion bars, shocks etc or just go what looks to be the simpler route with coilovers? I only say simpler as it looks like there are fewer components but i really have no idea. I am not even sure if I have konis or bilsteins. Need to look at that tonight.

I understand that everyone has different uses for their car but mine would be as ER put it, street / canyon carver

Any light you can shed would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Flat Six]

With everything that goes into a move to coilovers, I'd consider that far, far more than a refresh -- more like a major upgrade.

In my mind I'd view a suspension refresh as R&R of:
-- Bushings (including strut top and sway bar)
-- Ball joints
-- Shocks & strut inserts
-- Tie rod ends if worn
Plus ride height / alignment / corner balance

But there are a few upgrades / while-you're-in-there maintenance items that might make sense to do at the same time, such as:
-- Turbo tie rods
-- Bump steer kit
-- Wheel bearings
-- Brakes / brake hoses
-- ER polybronze or RSR bushing

Hope this helps.

[privatepang]

Thanks for the info. Helps a great deal.

[Omegablueray]

I agree with Flat Six

[RSTarga]

me too, go ER rubber bushings for the street + the above suggestions.

[Dublinoh]

Originally Posted by RSTarga

me too, go ER rubber bushings for the street + the above suggestions.

I like the ER rubber bushings for the street too.

[will hung]

And remember, the 911 suspension was designed to work with torsion bars. As a result, all the strength was built into the floor to resist suspension twist. To properly/fully convert to coilovers, you should reinforce the upper suspension mounts, add a full roll-cage, and tie the upper suspension mounts to this cage.

You will be more than happy with a refresh using Elephant Racing's rubber bushings. Ask me how I know? And my last car was an Impreza with crazy stiff coilovers.

[steely]

I agree with Flat Six as well.

I would suggest adding to the upgrade/while you're in there list:
Drop links

And depending on time/budget...
Steering rack rebuild
powder coating of control arms etc
Replacement of front fuel line to pump - and maybe tunnel lines. This may seem way out of scope, but I regret not having done when I had the whole front end out of the way.

[PorscheGAL]

I just got done doing this to the Targa and am in the process of doing the 930 right now. I am just going to add that your torsion bars do not need to be replaced unless there is something wrong with them. Also if you're doing the front I would do the rear. So I would also include the rubber bushings on the trailing arms. Those can get quite compressed over the years. Check the drop links too.

[na2ub]

For a simple refresh, just get the ER rubber bushings for the front and rear torsion bars. Probably replace the front torsion bars, as they are usually scraped up from rubbing due to the old bushings, which renders them succeptable to breaking. Then buy new shock absorbers, or get yours rebuilt.

If you want to do upgrades, all of the above, and get new, bigger torsion bars front and rear. The shocks need to be matched to your new spring rate with bigger bars.

If you want to go crazy with it, just keep reading. Everyone will chime in the best / top of the line suspension bits.

[privatepang]

Wow great info guys.

Looks like I have a lot of homework to do.

[Packet82]

You're going to be tearing everything apart. So, you might as well do it right while you're in there.

For the rear:
Trailing arm bushings
Wheel bearings
Shocks
sway bar droplinks
sway bar bushings
torsion bar bushings

Consider also doing:
Brake refresh- How are your pads and rotors? You'll need to take them off anyways
How are your brake lines? You'll be draining the system while you're in there
Parking brake - check the pads on the parking brakes
Double check your master cylinder to see if there are any leaks. If it needs to be replaced, this is the time to do it
Not entirely related, but take a look at the oil lines running down the passenger side of the car while the wheels are off. Mine were leaking and needed replacement.

Front:
Ball joints
Tie rods
A Arm bushings
strut inserts
strut mount bushings
wheel bearings

While you're in there:
Mostly the same as the rear. Check your brakes since they'll have to come off anyways.
Check your steering rack to see if it needs to be rebuilt. If not, regrease it.

Once you're done, get an alignment & CB.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Flat Six

But there are a few upgrades.............
-- Bump steer kit

Bump steer kit only if you have lowered your ride height. (Flat Six - Correct?)

Is the bump steer kit required if you only lower the car to Euro spec vs US spec?

Also, you have giant washers on top of your shocks/struts if a US spec SC and still original. Suspect they need to come out if you are going to lower to Euro height.

Do some reading before adjusting ride height. The adjustment dimensions are not that hard to dial in but if lower than Euro spec I would get a pro involved. Alignment is required regardless as toe changes.

[Flat Six]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Bump steer kit only if you have lowered your ride height. (Flat Six - Correct?)

Might be overguessing, but since OP is asking about suspension refresh there's no telling whether PO already lowered, or whether OP/OP's alignment shop will want to lower to Euro-ish height. Either way I believe 911s handle better @ Euro-ish height anyway, so some kind of bump steer accommodation (end links or steering rack spacers) is a no-brainer to me. Only reason not to do it, IMHO, is if OP wants to raise to US-spec height and never anticipates lowering it. Just my $.02.