Ha! The flame suit. At least you got the nads to air out what you did honestly.

Nobody cares if you did it wrong - we all have. Me - one hundred squillion times. I got stories.

Just take a breath and start over. I am really thinking the 134 gauge kit is an ok choice. Not optimal but what the hell. I bet with the motor and AC running it sucks it up like me on an ice cream sundae.

Love it Bob, love it!!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

Hi.first off just cause the machine showed it was able to hold 29" of vac,doesn't mean it doesn't have a leak.the proper method is to pressurize the system with nitrogen to 200 psi,remove guages spray down components with soapy water and see if any bubbles are apparent,if not and pressure holds for 2 hrs.anouther method which I find more accurate and less time consuming is to first charge the system to specs then run the car for approx 5 min with the a/c on verifying head pressures are normal,and compressor is cycling as it should.i then shut it down and proceed to check all lines,fittings and components with a refrigerant leak detector.now as far as the car not taking a charge maybe a blockage problem of some sort,not excluding the machines lines,or operator error.many times on low capacity systems I'm able to completely charge a vehicle through the low side port without the vehicle running.but I have found that some diffent brand of vehicles will not take a complete charge until I start the vehicle and the compressor cycles.one thing I wanted to mention is that on many 90's gm vehicles when the charge went low the vehicles control module would,cut power to the compressor,to avoid it cycling with no charge and damaging the compressor.after recharging,the compressor would still not cycle until the battery was disconnected and reset.what I would do is find a competent shop familiar with Porsche cars

Hire a football coach? :D Just messing around, I know who he is and I do very much respect his opinion. When I decide to do this right I will be purchasing barrier hoses, driers, condensers etc. from his company. I've spent a lot of time on his website which is an excellent resource:

Griffiths supplies a range of air conditioning components for your Porsche 911,911s,911t,911 turbo, and 930, such as: Porsche air conditioning upgrades, Porsche air conditioning improvements and updates: Porsche barrier hoses and hose sets, Porsche c

For now I was looking for a quick/cheap fix.

And Bob LOL I hope we cross paths someday so I can buy you an ice cream sundae. :)

Get to the store and report back.

I see NOTHING in the link that indicates that machine can PRESSURE recharge an A/C system. The way I see it most refrigerant replenishing tanks/reservoirs have very little outlet pressure capability and rely on the low side "sucking" action of the system's compressor to "pull" refrigerant into the system.

So I can't imagine trying to charge an automotive A/C system without the engine, compressor, running. The results the op posted would be exactly as expected if the engine wasn't running.

I was up at my local Mercedes tech's shop last weekend. He just purchased a new Snap on unit that he was using to charge a system without the car running. This is the unit.

EEAC325B, Service Center, A/C, KOOL KARE™ Plus, R134a

The "recharge" feature really doesn't require any explanation, this is how shops have been recharging cars for decades.

RTI RHS780

Is this a bit more clear?

According to the web page...this unit services vehicles 1994 and up.

To recap: tried to recharge my ac at a non specialist shop, errors were made. End result was we had pulled vacuum for fifteen minutes and were only able to load 20oz of r134, vent temp went to approx 60 degrees from 70.

Today temp in the garage was 82, engine running, deck lid down, ac on max, emergency brake on, in neutral. I was able to load 12 oz of r134a (total of 32oz) and this did not seem to drop the vent temp below 60 low side pressure 25lbs. The engine temp was at 215 so I decided to stop and let things cool down.

Four hours later I was able to load a second 12 oz (total of 44oz same conditions except ambient temp was at 88) this dropped vent temp to 58 with a low side pressure of 30lbs. I took the car for a drive steady 60 mph ambient temp outside 92 and had a center vent temp of 50. I have no idea what my high side pressure is (and you should know).

This meets my short term goals of working ac without addressing the obvious loss of coolant through hoses and who knows where else. I have owned the car since last November and was told by the PO it just needed charged. I don't know how long ago it was last charged. I will repost here and report the longer term results.

I feel I must state that I was warned by many of the potential hazards of this procedure. Don't try this at home if you haven't done your due diligence, and I feel unqualified to train anyone to do this. This is the "equipment" I used:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344019415.jpg

Its not 1985 anymore. Believe it.

Maybe its time to read ... The Mr. Ice Project


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344021829.jpg

50 degrees ain't bad great assuming you are not overcharged.

I am in no way arguing with Griff's post. You want more, you gotta upgrade.

However, is my statement that 50 degrees "ain't bad" (for stock) valid? I think it is, but would like feedback.

[QUOTE=kuehl;6891941]Maybe its time to read ... The Mr. Ice Project

It is a very good read and I have read it more than once. My fix is temporary at best....I will likely be a future customer. Thanks for your input.

And Bob it didn't really suck it up...it was more like a slow assimilation. The possibility of an overcharge is real for sure. I do feel somewhat better knowing the amount I put in seems to be in the correct range.

Assume for the moment the stock system is XX ounces of R12.
In stock system you multiply XX times 85% for R134a and your
arrive at 'nominal' starting point for the amount.
However only if the high side pressure at idle (deck lid down) is not greater than
250 psi at 92F ambient.

50F vent temp with a stock system at 92F is common, I've seen
45F but under special conditions (procedures).

But.... if you have 44 ounces then i'd say your high side could be
higher than your bogey. So get some gauges on that puppy soon.

Today I purchased a set of gauges for the high and low side:

ambient temperature 88, engine running idle, deck lid closed, car in neutral, a/c on high, doors and windows closed.

25 low side 225 high side after about two minutes, after about six minutes settled to this:

The center vent temp was about 58 degrees, I think this will drop when the car is driven. Is it safe to say the car is not over charged?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344101922.jpg

Like Bob said, "You want more, you gotta upgrade".

Looks good but I would turn the A/C blower off and then see how long before the thermostatic capilary sensor shuts the compressor off. And be sure it does.

50 degrees vent temp is actually not bad for an old system. As the cabin temperature drops, say with a 25 degree drop across the evaporator coil, you do the math. When the a/c has just been turned on, with a cabin temp of 90F, during the first few seconds the system is on, the outlet temp will just be 90F-25F=65F. As the unit runs longer, the cabin temp drops to 75F and the evaporator outlet temp drops to 50F and so on and on and on until the cabin temp drops to 70F which is very comfortable on a 95F outside temp, the vent temp will be 45.

Maybe newer evaporator coils can perform a 30F degree drop across the coils. That is why an upgrade to newer systems like the Griffiths is necessary to achieve this low vent temps.

It is not overcharged, acutally it is a just a little low.

At 25 psi low side, the saturation temperature is 29F, which is below freezing temp of water. The coil might ice up especially if your blower setting is on low, maybe not if you are always on high blower setting.
I usually target a little above the freezing temperautre of about 33-35F which corresponds to a saturation pressure of 28-29 psig on the low side for R134A. But you have to watch your high side pressure not to exceed 250 psig.

"Is it safe to say the car is not over charged?"

Based on your ambient of 88F and high side on your gauge of 225-250..
I would stop where you are for now, drive the car for a few days and see
how you like it.