WEVO shifter with dual springs, and their precision shift joints. It was my first mod and made a huge difference in enjoyment.

Awesome thread - subbed!!

I would start with nothing but proper maintenance.

Then do Track Days. And AX. A lot of them.

Then do mods, one at a time, so you really feel the change each mod gives.

suspension/set up first.
Lighten second - this could include the SSIs
may need to retune susp/ride height if you lighten a lot
then do your engine internals if needed.

These cars are so fun at their limit and driving a slow(er) car fast is more fun than a fast car slow. If you can turn the same time driving 9/10s on track it is WAYYY more fun that turning the same time at 6/10s in a faster car.

So little has changed in the last 5 to 6 years......

A good list...........
 

to start with. I would add SSI exhausts to the list. If not already on the car, I would add 16x7" front wheels and 16x8" or 9" rear wheels. A front strut brace would be helpful as would adding a short shift kit. I used the Porsche short shift kit on my SC and like it very much. Happy hunting!

old thread, but yo can address 2 issues w/ one change
while a 3.6 is nice and gains you ~50 lb-ft of torque and losing 100# is like adding 15lb-ft of engine torque, and regearing will have a similar effect all are intrusive and expensive.

Change to 15" wheels can add ~45lb-ft(near what a 3.6 adds)

here are a couple of possibilities
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1527465198.gif
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1527465198.gif

82 911SC mods:

Oil fed tensioners
Airbox pop off valve
Turbo tie rods
H4 headlights
headlight relays
air conditioner delete

Otherwise stock and just fun to drive.

Keep the rev's up.

my list:

complete tune up to include valve adjustment
renew all K-Jet seals,
ultrasonic cleaning of parts
new injectors
replace all vacumm lines
chain tensioner upgrade
upgrade oil cooler

renewed bushes front and rear
RS strut brace (welded in)
turbo tie-rods
lowered to 63cm front, 62cm rear
rebuild calipers (thicker rotors need 3.2 calipers)
Zimmermann drilled discs and Ate pads
SS brake lines
SSIs and 2 in, 1 out Dansk Sport muf
new Bilsteins B6 Nürburgring front and rear
WEVO shifter & PJS coupler
7/8x16 w/205 & 225 tyres

weight droppet:
- lighter battery (now 10, instead of 23 kg)
- removed rear seat sound deadening
- removed stereo
- removed AC
- removed rear heat blower
- ducktail fibre glass
- removed rear foldable rests

nice^^^ that should keep you happy.

And what looks nice. Is to backdate the heating system. This is removing those awful brown hot air hoses etc.

indeed...

http://up.picr.de/32687567jg.jpg

First I backdated the heat and then backdated the induction system to PMOs with EFI. More grunt and a great induction sound. Retro-mod.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528177807.jpg

ok...here is the list of things I did to my 82 last year or so

21/28 Torsion Bars
Revalved shocks to match
OEM Sways from 86 Carrera new bushings
new rubber/neatrix bushings in A-arms and rear torsion area
new wheel bearings front and rear
rebuilt calipers
hawk HPS pads
sweet assed alignment
had my CIS fuel distributor rebuilt along with WUR, 6 new injectors
new fuel filter, Cap, rotor, spark plugs, and Magnecores
momo prototipo
radio delete with block off plate

to do:
SSI Heat Exchangers with Dansk sport muffler
Adjustable rear sway drop links

Mind sharing details on alignment and ride height (wheel center to the, not fender lip)? Which shocks? Have Dyno plots?

it all depends on what you want...

for street? i think SC's are now starting to become quite old, and so a lot of things are going to start breaking down, or at least deteriorating. If you buy a stock car now, be prepared for a lot of cost and time to make it run nicely.
replace/repair everything that doesn't work or is too old: tires, fuel hoses, suspension, vacuum hoses, brake lines, discs/pads, light bulbs, relays, wires, etc...and if your CIS is not perfect (and most of them aren't), add another couple of 1000 to make right. costly.

Other than that, MUST mods? i've done lots of mods, but not one of them is really MUST. Most of them were done out of another form of necessity: things were broken.
Stock it is quick enough, it brakes well, steers great, sounds good, suspension feels solid, it is gorgeous to look at.

If i had to put my mods (not repairs) in order of most worthwhile and also considering budget:
nardi steering wheel (best mod for me personally, cheap and wonderful)
take off A/C (non working)
wideband 02 sensor and afr gauge (peace of mind)
volt gauge (peace of mind)
heater backdate (get rid of a lot of junk, and heater still works as well as before)
repro lightweight rear light units to replace the rotten heavy old ones
hydraulic tensioners (peace of mind)
bitzracing EFI (to replace rotten CIS)
classic retrofit CDI+ (peace of mind and a bit tuneability)
SSI's (to replace rotten heat exchangers)
(the car already had plastic bumpers, rocker cover delete and some other bits)

I'm sure the car is quite a bit quicker now, but you get used to it quickly and even with EFI and SSI's, it is deffo not night and day with CIS and stock exhaust.

It is boring, but i would now put my money in good tires first. Maybe some new seatbelts too :D
cheers

I would have to dig around for the alignment sheet, ill see if its in the glove box.

ride height is 1/2 inch under Euro in the front and back with RUF Speedlines, Bilstein shocks re-valved at Elephant. Stock motor with JE 9.5 pistons with a "re-nikasil" from EBS, headwork by EBS, Rockers service at German Precision, New Rocker Shafts, RSR Seals, Crank Serviced and drilled by Armundo, Jerry Woods rebuild of Distributor, CIS and WUR rebuild at CIS Flowtech, the list goes on and on like my Credit Card Bill ;)

Hey @wreckah,

I'm curious about these two things you mentioned:

I assume the volt gauge is to make sure you are not overcharging and then blowing the alternator, correct?

I've never heard of the wideband O2 sensor and afr gauge. Can you elaborate?

Thanks!

Todd

Launch button.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528322631.jpg

hi Todd,

- volt gauge = to check if your charging system works as it should. I had a broken regulator before and fried a couple of components without knowing (charging at 18V instead of 14V).
- afr gauge (air/fuel ratio monitor): this is to protect my full engine rebuild investment. After spending 15K, i don't want to damage the engine by running too lean or something else. After i installed it, it was immediately obvious that my CIS was running like crap...hence the swap to EFI.
cheers, Jan

Thanks wreckah and Trackrash.

Trackrash - do you have a name or link or something where you found that gauge?

For my 82 SC I’m looking for a sportier, more aggressive exhaust. I have a stock setup besides the test pipe. My mechanic recommended M&K. What do you guys think?

Rennshift + Wevo Coupler
SSIs w/ 2 in 1 out sport muffler of your choosing (ideal for street)
16x7/8 Wheels and 205/225 good tires
Momo Prototipo w/ eccentric spacer
All maintenance/wear items

These changes have made the biggest difference to my SC.

Base line performance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1566418942.jpg

States pressure cast light alloy rims. I thought Fuchs were forged?

They are but for SC's, but Cookies were standard and later for 3.2 C's Phone Dials, both are cast wheels

It'll go faster with an SC 930-10 after you lighten it...mucho.

Did vanos ever state his goals?

Changes that I have made that I would definitely recommend:

1) 7&8 x 16 Fuchs
2) Karsten spring
3) 930S steering wheel
4) H4 Headlights
5) a/c delete

I would also recommend the following--original owner already did these prior:

- exhaust (B&B tri-flow headers and 2 in / 2 out exhaust
- strut brace
- F/R sway bars

The early SC’s tested quite a bit faster, check out the Car & Driver 1978 911SC targa road test, that car would run with a 3.2 Carrera! 0 to 60 in 5.5 sec if I recall correctly, I think primarily due to a higher flow fuel distributor and large port heads.

I plan on “backdating” my ‘82 SC to an early CIS set-up with matching large port heads (among other mods). My Stock ‘82 “dies” around 5500 rpm and it drives me nuts, if I want big block torque I’ll drive one of my pushrod V8 cars…

964 cams will take care of that.

I wouldn't put too much faith in that piece of literature. It also says the engine layout is "Air-cooled, four-cylinder, horizontally opposed" :rolleyes:

I agree with all of this. The SSI and exhaust made the biggest difference for me. I'd add continually looking for ways to remove weight and replacing worn-out comfort seats with something more appropriate to the list as well.

Old thread but relevant info...I've lightened m '83 SC to 2300 and have a Euro 930-10 with SSI's etc....10.45 lbs per HP. That moves pretty nicely.
I found some cloth Recaro's w/ headrest that are very light...put some Pascha on the center sections so looks good too. They wear well also...have had them for some years now.

For me, there's no better cheap and easy mod for an SC than plugging the decel valve. Having the engine drop RPMs slowly is not cool lol.

Prior owner of my 82 Targa

Plenty of power to redline

Ported intakes and runners to 36mm
Replated Nikasil's w/ JE Pistons - effective static CR 9.7:1
Elgin SC330 cams timed at 2.0mm
SSI's with Dansk Sport 2/1

How so...'better' is a relative term.... the mods I've done have made mine 'better'...now, if you are talking about owning for a short period and selling...a flipper...then you are correct.

I think location should govern your mods somewhat.

I tried a few of the tricks for SCs incl. 2021 cams, SSIs and CR CDI box. Definitely made a difference but it’s not the “silver bullet” power wise. Most of what I have around me in close proximity are freeway on ramps. For that, I think an SC is inherently undergunned and the exhilaration of a turbo would be A-plus.

I took ~150lbs of weight out, refreshed the suspension (and increased TBs), added 9x16s to rear and drove to California. The exhilaration of flowing through corners and being able to use all pro forma 200hp all of the time was priceless. That’s the hook for me. That I could comfortably and reliably cruise all the way back home fills me with admiration for CIS (I’m ashamed to say).

I’m going to try and continue to take more and more weight out on the sly, without changing the cars appearance as a stock car. If my ship comes in, I may think engines or a stable mate but it’s getting pretty good as is.

No, it says 4 cycle engine, not four cylinder. That is the official Porsche spec sheet. They are always conservative of HP and performance figures. Unlike many manufacturers of the time that would flat out lie about HP or torque.