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in the middle of fuel pump replacement

Guy's,
i'm in the middle of a bunch of stuff including the fuel pump. So how much fuel should i expect to have flow out i have had the car run down till the light came on and it has been sitting while i have done other things for about 4 hours now... should I have a crap load of gas coming out?? I will try to clamp the lines off as well as i can but what should i expect? if you guys have any helpful hints for this job I would be great to hear them... i am also doing the accumilator and the filter. well I'm sorrry this seems rushed and al but i'm am literaly in the middle of this all. i'll check back in a bit i'm off to get some more clamps for the fuel lines.. and hell grab a bite to eat. thanks in advance

Eric Mckenna

Old 05-24-2002, 09:40 AM
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#1 Battery un-hooked ?
#2 Fire Extingusher handy ........

Murphy's Prevention ..........

As long as you have both the supply and vents SECURELYclamped off. Not much, maybe a pint. But keep your face out of the way.

Did you go and buy hose clamp pliers ? They work the best. And don't damage the hose, like Vise Grips.

As long as your clamps are secure. Its an easy deal. Beware of where the clamped hoses are. If you bump one loose, you'll never forget it, BTDT.

Good Luck and have fun...........
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Old 05-24-2002, 10:19 AM
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Disconnect the battery, no open flames, do not do this job in your garage near a gas fired hot water heater (outside with plenty of ventilation is best). Have a gasoline rated fire extinguisher on hand. Wear splash proof safety goggles. You may get a gallon or two of gasoline if you let it all run out. Be ready to catch it and then transfer it to an approved metal container. Or have plugs (NAPA sells plug assortments) to put in the hoses to stopper them (fuel may run back from the hose going to the rear of the car too) while you're getting the new pump in place. Clamping the lines works unless they are old and hard then you'll damage them. If rubber portions of fuel lines are old and hard replace then as they may not reseal on your new pump. Properly dispose of the collected gasoline or after filtering it burn it in an old carbuerated vehicle; do not recycle it back into your Porsche or other fuel injected vehicle. Good luck, Jim

Last edited by Jim Sims; 05-24-2002 at 10:24 AM..
Old 05-24-2002, 10:21 AM
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Thanks guy's i just got back and i bought some small needle nose plyers, i hope they work the hoses seemed to be good and plyable so they shouldn't crack or split... i hope thanks for hte insight as to what I should expect.. So i should only get about a pint if i clamp them off huh... ok i can handle that.

I will let ya know how it all pans out.
See ya's of to wrench a bit more on the gal!
Old 05-24-2002, 10:36 AM
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SWEET MOTHER OF GOD!!!!! guy's which part of the fuel filter comes off the hose fitting or the brass connecter?? NOT like it matter's they are both welded to each other!! I can't get them apart.. the accumulator was easy and the fuel pump was well so, so and NOW THIS!!!! so close to being done is there a trick or what!? which one should I seperate the hose or the brass fittingthat goes into the filter itself??? please ! god.. i'm gainst the rope's here and gettin the crap kicked out of me .. i don't want to break anything and i don't want to spray anything on the fiting as i don't want it getting to the hose and screwing stuf up. any help? or ideas?


Eric Mckenna
78SC ( thats making me mad!)
Old 05-24-2002, 12:41 PM
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Is this the front or rear filter?

As to the rear, the 78's used several fuel filters. For mine, and every one I have seen, the filter is disconnected using a 17 and 15mm wrench. The metal fuel line is flared into a connection fitting which screws into the filter. Each side is a different size to avoid swapping ends.
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Old 05-24-2002, 03:27 PM
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Make sure you are turning the right way to loosen; one can get it backwards if the fittings are upside down. I use an open end wrench on the fitting closest to the filter and a flare nut (tube wrench) on the hose fitting. Sometimes it takes a good pull so brace yourself. Good luck. Jim
Old 05-24-2002, 04:26 PM
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Hey guy's...
oh my filter is in the rear up in the left hand side .. Now that everything is new! Is there anythiong I should do before trying to start her up? like prime the system by letting the pump push fuel thru the sysytem? I've got her all tight and now ready to start her up and check for leak's before i slap the cover back over the Fuel pump. but again is there anything I should do before cranking her over?

Eric mckenna
78SC
Old 05-24-2002, 04:48 PM
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bump
Old 05-24-2002, 05:02 PM
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Leave the pump cover off for a few minutes while you start it up and look for leaks. Keep the fire extinguisher handy. Hook the battery back up. Transmission in neutral and parking brake on/wheels chocked. Remove the air filter cover and air filter. Look in and find the air flow meter plate in the back of the air box. Turn the key to on, only to on not to start. With the key in the on position gently lift the air meter arm/plate. You'll hear the fuel pump come on and the system will whine and you'll feel the air meter arm "stiffen". Keep holding it after " the stiffening" for a 2 or 3 seconds, no more. You have just purged the system of air. Turn key to off. Replace air filter and air filter cover. Start car and look for leaks. Don't get body parts or clothing caught in moving engine parts! If no leaks shut off car and replace fuel pump cover. Cheers, Jim

Last edited by Jim Sims; 05-24-2002 at 05:12 PM..
Old 05-24-2002, 05:07 PM
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Thanks Jim,
Just what i wanted to know... what would happen if one to just start the car... what will this air in the sysytem do.. ?
Old 05-24-2002, 05:47 PM
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If you don't purge ahead of time you'll have to crank the engine over until the system fills with fuel and pushes the air out as the fuel pump normally only runs during cranking or while air is moving through the CIS system. Lifting the arm is the same as what happens when air is being inducted through the CIS system by a running engine. There is a safety switch on the arm which allows the fuel pump only to be energized in the key on position while the engine is running. The air being pulled into a running engine is what normally lifts the arm. Cranking can run down the battery and wear the starter needlessly, hence the fuel system priming/purging procedure. Cheers, Jim

Old 05-24-2002, 06:13 PM
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