Turn signal/high-beam switch (slight rant...resolved!)
 

I replaced my turn signal switch to fix my melted high-beam switcher today (while I was in there, I installed the Mitch Leland bushing to fix the play in my wheel). The relay kit goes in after this is done and tested.

Every single wire was easy to replace...except for the last one - the red/thick-grey wire at the top of the headlight switch. For the life of me, I can't see or reach the topmost electrical male connector to plug that last wire in. As the sun set, I started losing tools (including those bendy long-nose pliers that seem essential to getting the job done) - so I bagged it until the morning.

I can't be the only one incredibly flustered and stumped by this evil last connector. Short of removing the headlight switch and going at this straight-on, does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting this last little sucker?

I'll get back there in the morning in the light of day - hopefully, I'll see some good suggestions for finishing this job.

Thanks!
Ethan

I've replaced the turn signal stalk twice (didn't learn the lesson about the headlight relays the first time), the steering wheel and the ignition switch mechanism. I can't recall the specific wire you're talking about but I can see where any of them can be a potential for giving you a fit. Have a cold beer and look at it fresh tomorrow.

Are you talking about the connector that goes in to the back of the headlight switch? I connected that with not much difficulties by lying on my back with my head under the dash board.

Yep - that's where it was, and I was on my back under the dash with a flashlight and dentist's mirror. There are (trying to count from memory) 4 connectors that go into the back of the headlight switch. This is the last one that I disconnected - the one on the top of the headlight switch back. This is the one that's killed me. I have a feeling that when I get into it in the morning with a fresh head, I'll be all "oh, that was easy"...but it will eat away at me all night...

I started with the top most connection and worked my way down. And it is a pia....

I did it by removing the switch from he dash. It's easy once you get the ring undone. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. It would be easier with the right tool.

Then connect the wires,test and reinstall it back into the dash.

This is exactly what I ended up doing. A few wires came out when I pulled the switch, so I had to consult the Bentley manual's wiring diagram to figure out what went where - but I got it right the first time. Thanks for the advice...best thing for this was beer, sleep, and a fresh head. :)

Eeew, I'm looking at having to do this myself soon, and am having unpleasant flashbacks of my time spent slithering around to get hands in there or my head into position to see (bifocals, the curse of being old) the wiring harness stuff when removing the poorly installed aftermarket alarm system the PO had introduced into it. Fortunately it was concurrent to the interior being gutted for carpet installation, I cannot imagine how bad it would be with the seats in.

Are you saying that the replacement switch's harness doesn't have a single plug-in connector at its end, and that the individual wires need to be dealt with one at a time rather than unplug the old and plug in the new??? Arrgh! Has anyone tackled this job by simply cutting the existing wires at someplace convenient, then splicing the new switch into them with crimp conn's or soldering them together after slipping on some heat shrink tubing for insulation and dressing them out of sight? That sounds like a bush-league workaround, but has to be better than going ballistic due to the cramped area to work... unless it's relatively convenient to R&R the lightswitch. Does the replacement switch's harness have the exact same colorcoded wiring as the original?

After my rant and aggravation, the job wasn't as bad as I made it out to be. Consider everything that I do when working on cars to be a worst-case scenario. I'm incredibly slow with a wrench, screw up lots, run into nearly every conceivable problem, but I am fairly methodical and eventually get it right. :)

To answer your question, I would definitely not recommend cutting and splicing the wires. I don't think that you can save any time with it, and there's more of a chance of causing shorts, fires, and just messy wiring under the dash. No need to remove the seat, either. Just move it all the way back. There is a combination male plug+one more single male wire (a ground, I think) for one of the two wire bundles. The second wire bundle has 5 individual female plugs coming out of it. Here's a picture of what you'll have to deal with - it's not too bad:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345923133.jpg

My problem was with the last wire on the top back side of the head light switch (not pictured, but it was the grey/white wire on the upper left of the above picture). I just couldn't see or get to it from underneath the dash. Everything else was pretty easy.

Having done the job, here's how I would do next time/recommend (apologies if you really know your stuff, I'm pretty inept - so I'm writing from my perspective). I used a combination of Wayne's 101 Project book and the Bentley manual for reference:
1. After unbolting the steering wheel, engage the steering lock via the ignition. Then, scribe the left and right of the steering wheel's metal ring in-line with chalk in-line with the seams on the plastic dash shroud like below:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345922844.jpg

2. Carefully remove the headlight switch (a replacement is $200 - hence using caution here). Instructions for doing this are available in the Bentley manual on page 960-3. To loosen the retaining ring, I used straight ended snap-ring pliers in the little holes (see arrows on Bentley diagram 0019430 on the same page).

3. Follow instructions in Wayne's 101 projects for replacing the stalk. I replaced the zip-tie holding the wire bundle together with a velcro tie.

4. Remove and replace each wire from the old switch to the new one-by-one, rather than all at once. This may save you from all kinds of diagnostic time.

5. The wheel should slide back on easily. Line the chalk marks up with the seams on the wheel shroud. Just remember that once everything is lined up, it is important to disengage the steering lock before you bolt the wheel back on. This way, you're not torquing the wheel nut against the lock (which I've read can break the lock).

I hope that this is helpful!

Just remember to disconnect your battery before moving any wires back there.

+1

Good job. I am just about to tackle this myself.

Speaking of "slow" and making mistakes, I have been working on my taillights. Removed them for some maintenance relating to the reverse switch. I see that after install one of the lights on each side is not as bright as the reverse, blinker and brake lights. So, I goes and gets me two brand new bulbs at the store. Same issue because the dim bulbs are the driving tail lights. They are supposed to be less bright. Doh.

+1! I absolutely HATE electric shocks. I suggest disconnecting the battery before even pulling the horn; like with the lights - there is current running through the system regardless of the ignition switch's position.

Little help on the install
 

Guys,

In the picture in this thread there is a black/white wire w/ green rings. What is this for and where does it connect? I have installed my new switch, lights (brights&low) work. Is it for use on cars later than 1974? Or, have I failed to connect something vital?

Thanks, Mark