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dw1 dw1 is offline
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oil pressure sender

I finally decided to change the oil pressure sender in my '87 3.2.

It hadn't been working for awhile, showing me high oil pressure all of the time.

Imho, don't believe anyone who says they can change it in a a/c equipped car without removing the a/c compressor bracket.

Here are the parts I had to remove:
- a/c compressor (relocate, not full removal)
- muffler
- heater manifold cross tube
- muffler strap support bracket
- lower trip panel beneath bumper

and most of those those were to get to the lower bolts of the a/c bracket

Once I got the a/c bracket out of the way, the rest was straightforward. Btw, it also helps to loosen the small bracket holding the oil tube that connects to the fitting that comes off at a right angle near the sender.

Reassembling, one must take special care not to cross-thread the banjo fitting into the block.

The sender now works, so it was worth the trouble, I think.
-----------------------------------

Interesting aside: I took the car out after I finished working on it today, and on a local interstate I passed a late model (997, I think) Carrera convertible driven by an older gentleman.

For the first time ever, I think, I got a wave from a newer 911 !

-----------------------------------------
'87 Carrera 3.2 sunroof coupe, black/black, w. f/r spoilers, euro ride height, bump steer kit, SW 93 oct. chip, Fabspeed euro premuffler, Dansk 1-in-2-out, bumperettes deleted, CDR220, etc.

Old 08-26-2012, 02:26 PM
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Unless an '87 is radically different than an '88, all you really needed was

15/16" crows foot.
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:40 PM
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I recall reading from some Pros, long ago,...saying not to use this method,..and explaining why. Will have to do a search try and locate it for you........something to do with removing the assembly THEN the sender,..sorry I don't recall the specifics. Some may chime on this particular footnote.....

,..just saying..

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshepp806 View Post
I recall reading from some Pros, long ago,...saying not to use this method,..and explaining why. Will have to do a search try and locate it for you........something to do with removing the assembly THEN the sender,..sorry I don't recall the specifics. Some may chime on this particular footnote.....

,..just saying..

BEST!

Doyle
Not a pro but I'm glad I listen to them (rnln)... Remove the sender and line out and do it on the bench. I end up having saw the sender off, put the block in a vice and it took 140psi before the base (nut) came off.

The danger to do in-situ is that you might damage the casing if if does not unscrew.

Read the whole tread and check the pics at post 15; Stuck Oil Pressure Sender
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:35 PM
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Thanks JJ 911SC,..that is the thread,....

I'd sure not want to make an error on the casing,...WHEW!~~~~~~~Bench, for sure.

I'd put that crowsfoot back in the toolbox...

BEST!

Doyle
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masraum View Post
Unless an '87 is radically different than an '88, all you really needed was

15/16" crows foot.
As noted in other threads using a crows-foot extension is an extremely high-risk approach. The sender is not secured directly to the block, but to a part that is secured to the block using a hollow banjo bolt and two crush seals.

The sender itself is threaded into that piece, and sealed using a copper washer - the same type used on the oil drain plug. Which means a high sealing torque.

Breaking the hollow bolt would be a very, very bad thing, and there isn't clearance to hold it secure enough to counter large torques, as the a/c compressor bracket is in the way.

Heck, I don't think I had enough rotational clearance to use a crows-foot extension even if I wanted to.

An involved job, but one that doesn't have to be done all that often.
Old 08-27-2012, 08:28 AM
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Just curious if you noticed a difference in pressures with the new sender? I rarely get below 3.5 bar, even at idle, so I suspect my sender is suspect.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:54 AM
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Greg, Yes I did see a difference.

Before the change, it was stuck at 4 - 5, and usually above 5.

With the change I see almost the full range: 1.5 - 2.5 at warm idle and 4 or so at speed.
Old 08-28-2012, 08:44 AM
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WAY back when I got my '89, I had the sender changed-out with minimal resultant changes on the gauge,...I've not yet removed any gauges to inspect that end,..but it's soon to come,..with the restoration. In my case, I suspect the gauge to be the culprit for not obtaining perfection through all ranges....I often wondered why so many never see "5".......

Caps,...cals,...

BEST!

Doyle

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Old 08-28-2012, 03:11 PM
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