Trans making noice when shifting into 2nd gear
 

Does anybody know what can cause this? It only makes noise when going from 1st to 2nd gear. A bit of a high pitched sound. Sounds different that if you were to just grind the gears. Anyone?????

could be a loose guide fork, which is attached to the inside of that squarish plate on your trans. easy enough to remove to see. you'll lose the fluid. loose nuts or pulled stud(s) cause the fork to turn and you get a whirring noise when shifting.

+1

Mine sounded like a hand circular saw going through plywood mainly transitioning into third on upshifts. But a wee bit into second and fourth as well.

Note the loose 10mm nut. There are three I think. Two of the three were loose. The one in the pic was the worst.

FWIW That is SWEPCO 210 gear oil - not what you are supposed to use. Correct SWEPCO 201 is green/blue. Mayo (rebuilt the trans) said the red stuff protects the gears but does not have the frictional properties of 201. Just changed to Kendall last week JW and Zimmerman recommend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346696854.jpg


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Hoping you are right. So how do I check this? It can be done without removing the trans? I am not a mechanic so I will have to bring it to my shop.

Is this sound a bit of a whine as you release the clutch?

It is on the bottom of the transmission You will need new transmission fluid, a gasket and a little sealant. There is a fill plug on the side of the transmission. It can be very had to remove, so make sure you can take it out before you take the plate off.
Use either Swepco 201 or Kendall 80w/90 GL5

Yes it makes a little whine noise while going into 2nd. So basically, when I take the plate off it will look like the photo in the previous post?

I know this might be a silly question but how do I refill the trans? I read something about a pump? Please advise?

Here is the drain plug. A pump would be faster, but you could get a few feet of hose and a funnel by the drivers rear fender. It would be a bit slower with the hose.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346712628.jpg

Get a pump, they are cheap enough.

does Pelican sell this pump? can someone give me a recommendation?

Get you car in the air on a level plane.
Here is what you need. It will take a few days to assemble the parts.

A 17MM allen wrench on a 1/2" drive socket. Alternatively, a big honkin' old fashioned allen wrench that you will have to source from other than Home Depot. Pelican has to have something.

Drain the fluid from the bottom plug and do your review/fix of the side plate.

Buy a new side plug for the trans because the female port gets tired and loose and you can have a hell of a time getting a bite when underneath using a hammer to persuade or a leverage pipe.

If you can't get it with a standard allen wrench (and you did not get a socket allen wrench) cut a 1 1/2 inch piece off the long end of the regular allen wrench with your dremel or die grinder cut-off wheel - a hack saw maybe?. (just spring for the socket) Pull the driver's rear wheel well and fashion socket extensions, a 17MM socket and a breaker bar to get that 1 1/2 inch allen plug in there and bust it loose. Push in hard while turning.

That done, go to Autozone and get a transmission fill funnel. It has a smaller diameter hose attached. Obtain the length hose you need reach the side port and duct tape the funnel to your driver's door handle. Get four quarts of the Kendall or SWEPCO and leave several hours to let the gear oil gravity feed into the trans. The funnel will have a screen in it and 80 weight is slow moving. Just be patient.

Put in the new plug when the gear oil has reached the bottom of the fill port. One user said recently to use the white teflon tape to seal and to allow easier removal down the road. Sounds good to me.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: SWE-201-80W90

Pelican Parts - Product Information: KEN-LSD-7745

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-064-020-02-M260

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-DPR-1017

Go to your local parts house and get a hand pump that fits in the gallon jug of trans. fluid.
Much quicker and easier then the funnel routine.

Never used one of those. Sounds way easier.

Why do they loosen up? What is the recommendation on rebuild ; e.g. locktite or locknut - or is this just a suck-it-and-see situation?

Thanks a lot guys, I just hope it is what we think it is and my biggest problem will be to re-fill the fluid. Say a prayer for me even though I am not religious......

I should also change the gasket correct? I could not find it on Pelican, any help?

I used the funnel method once. Works, but a FLAPS pump is cheap and easier to use all around. You know you have enough oil in when it starts to run out. Much easier to stop pumping than to pull a funnel with oil in it out without making a mess. Or you have to be very slow with that last quart, as it won't all fit in.

One tip: before you drain your oil, remove the fill plug. That way, if you just can't get it out, you can still drive the car to a shop for help.

I've switched to bolt head plugs instead of the Allens - much easier to deal with.

If you have orange Loctite case sealer, you can use that to reseal the plate. But usually a new gasket will do the job as well, and not everyone has the case sealer (or one of the substitutes like Hondabond or Tribond) on hand. Those are things guys who rebuild their own engines have, but not everyone does that.

get pump
 

i did a oil change on my sc less than a half hour on jack stands just take off drivers side rear wheel and slide under put some card board down and go for it piece of cakehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1346737759.jpg