Make your own 911 Engine Yolk?
 

Why are the 911 engine Yolks so expensive? (I am Cheap) How hard would it be to bend a few metal tubes and weld them together? Obviously more to it than that but can't be a whole lot more. Anyone tried it???

Shawn

I always borrowed one . . . but recently bought a 7,000 lb stand and adjustable yolk from Price Club for $30.

The yolk doesn't fit, but I understand it can be modified to fit (drill some new holes in the arms). Or so I've heard, I think someone had some pics on this site in the past year.

Yoke, guys ... that's no jolk, yuk, yuk!!!

I believe that my Yoke is built by Masaratti.

Anyhow, if it carries a Porsche part number.........well you know the drill!



Good luck,
David Duffield

Ummmmmmm, engine yolk.
-Homer Simpson

I personally have learned the hard way, to resist the temptation of trying to shortcut or economize my way around things like that. I too, am cheap, but not to the point where I put a price on safety.
With as many things as there are on a 911 that require engine removal I think the tool will wind up paying for itself in the long run. the reward being peace of mind and ease of use.
Just my 2 cents.:cool:

I have an engine stand that will hold my engine. But it does not have the access if I want to get at the seal, or pressure plate area. I can live with what I have just would like to have the yoke that works best

Thanks guys
Shawn

Using a yoke that is not specifically designed for the engine case will put more stress on the case, and could damage the case. The universal engine stands just don't fit, and they aren't safe either. I learned the hard way when I damaged a Porsche case using one of them. The entire load of the engine will be on the very small spot where the universal mount hooks to the case. The Porsche-specific yokes (also work on the 914 engines) support the engine all the way around the lip, basically emulating a transmission case. The difference is night and day. Once you see how well this tool fits, you will see that it's worth the cost.

My opinion on this is not biased because we sell these things - ask anyone else...

-Wayne

Thanks Wayne, I will be looking around for a REAL engine yoke now just before the winter.

Shawn

Just to let you know. There are other ways.

I built my engine without an engine stand (or yoke) - mainly because I didn't have the floor space. The engine is light enough so you can do this on a sturdy bench. The short block was supported on top of a 3/4" piece of plywood which in turn was supported by a lazy susan, ball-bearing turntable (from the local hardware store); quite adequate for access to all parts of the engine. When you need access to the bottom, just roll the engine over onto the flywheel end of the crank. I installed the flywheel/clutch assy./transaxle while it was on the floor and the intake system (carbs) and the heat exchangers after the engine was back in the car.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

Hmm, that's sold me. I see what you are saying about the porsche-specific yoke going all the way around the lip - that is how the ones that I've always borrowed have done. Makes sense.

I think this is what he's typing about. Wayne - how was your case (specifically) damaged? I used mdified washers to butt up against the case for a proper fit. Front of engine is supported by a 4x4 as well. Worked for me.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/930rear.jpg

That looks like an aluminum block to me? The AL blocks are a bit stronger then the mag blocks. In a setup like you have shown, the engine is being supported by only two studs. Although you currently show four, it's impossible to hook the case to all four studs before you have assembled it...

With the engine yoke, the engine actually sets on the lip, and the load is distributed around as the edge of the case is supported, not the studs. The studs merely help to keep the motor attached to the lip.

At the point where the bolts enter the case, there will be a high concentration (on the universal stand you showed me). This can and often will indent the case, or pull the stud out of the case. You have a lot of force over a small area, instead of a lot of force displaced over a large area.

If you don't believe in the concept, then don't ever use washers under your nuts and bolts again...

-Wayne

Oh, in case I wasn't clear, my case was damaged when I cranked down on the studs. It also slipped when rotating a bit, and scratched up the surface. After mucking with it (this was a few years ago), I just got the yoke...

-Wayne

Nobldy is a more determined cheapskate than I am and I'll agree there is no substitute for the real yoke. Or yolk. I used a generic stand and it worked fine for most of my rebuild since my case is Al. But I needed, and borrowed a real yoke for splitting the case. It would have been insane to support my half-case on two studs. Plus, the real yoke allows access to the flywheel, pressure plate, etc. Much easier and better.

I don't borrow yolks though. I just use new ones. I'm not that cheap.

I understand what you're typing about.

This stand was used to strip the motor down to the point of splitting the case, and then to put it all back.
I did NOT split the case using this stand. Took the short block to my mechanic's place for that. You do not have the freedom of movement you need to split the case with this set up.

Still, it ought to be OK for stripping off the ancillaries. I have seen my mechanic hoist engines using one motor mount point and ONE tranny bolt. Probably shouldn't do that, but it brings home the point of how tough they are.