Which mid rise lift should I get?
 

Before I get flamed for using the search button, I have to say I've just about every thread from Google regarding these lifts. I will be using it mainly for my '71 911 project car, but it will also serve as an assistant to my minivan. I have a few questions before I make the purchase.

1. My first preference is a new lift made from the States. Thus far, the only one I've found is from Mohawk. Unfortunately, they discontinued the mid rise and currently only offer the full rise version. I like the lift, but I don't have the ceiling for it. Anyone know of a mid rise made from the States?

2. Does anyone have issues with the rear bar being in the way of dropping the motor/tranny?

3. If my only choice is an imported one, is there one that is more preferred than the others?

TIA

If ceiling height is an issue, then go with this: MaxJax Portable Two Post Lifting System by Dannmar

I went from this:

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/porscheonlift4.jpg

To this:

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc05173_medium.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dscn0513_800x600.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc03015med.jpg

Love not having anything in the middle when working under the car.

When you have a spare moment, would you mind measuring the very outer width of your max jax? All up base plate outer to base plate outer?

Sorry to high jack this thread but Id love one of these things but fear I dont quite have the width in my car port.

Many thanks
ED.

Ed,

You can install it any way you want... In my case I have it setup for working with it in either bay. And on the second bay, I made holes to have it installed in two different widths. When I am done, I unbolt it from the floor and put it away against the wall :)

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/ds...x600_copy1.jpg

For the 1983 911, because of where the lifting points are, I have to use the 116" setting... This is measuring from the outside base plate of the lift (towers).

For the 2002 911 (which I no longer have, but a friend bought it, so I still get to work on it ), I use the 128" setting... helps with getting in and out of the car. Same setting for a Boxster, Pontiac TransAm, 1990-1998 Porsche 911. This is on the second bay. I have 116" and 128" setup in the second bay.

In the single bay I have mine at 115" (measured from the outside of the base).

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc05178_medium.jpg

For the second bay, I just rotate the middle tower (only one additional hole needed, so six in total instead of 5).

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc06036sm.jpg

I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (even though I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around. For the smaller car (FIAT), in the second bay, I also have a set of holes at 116" (measured from the outside of the base).

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc06034sm.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc_0020_800x600.jpg

I hope that helps.

MaxJax is the HOT setup!! I have had one for aboutr 1-1/2 years and could kick myself for not buying sooner. Not made in the USA though. Designed here but made in that big weld shop way out east....

Costco often has the best price.
Costco - Dannmar MaxJax

Wachuko,
You have a good point about interferences under the scissor lift. This is a good idea. What is the depth of the holes that you had to drill? How long are the studs? I originally didn't think much about the maxjax because I was afraid I may not have enough room (width) for it. I'd have to reconsider. Thanks.

There are no studs coming out of the floor... all that you will have are holes with the inserted threaded anchors in place. Get a few plastic plugs for when the lift is not installed and you are done.

As to the thickness of the concrete. Here is what they have listed in their website:

Do I need a special floor or foundation to support my lift?

Most residential or commercial foundations are strong enough to support a MaxJax™ lift. The minimum requirements are 2500-3000 PSI 4" thick concrete. Be sure to check your floor on the possibility of it being a post tension slab. In this case contact the building architect before drilling. Visually inspect the site where the lift is to be installed and verify the concrete is in good condition. If your concrete has cracks or other defects, please consult with a certified contractor before proceeding to install the MaxJax™ lift.

I use the Snap-On midrise
I bought it used
came out to less than 1/2 list

I got a lot of great use from my mid-raise lift... but there is really no comparision when working without that chunk of steel in the way... and when done, just move the towers out of the way and you get all your garage space back. Not something you can do with the mid-raise.

There are folks that have made modifications to the floor to have the mid-raise be flat with the floor... if you do not do that, at least for our cars, we need to do some ramps for clearance.

Also, for engine drop, you remove the bar in the back to allow for the space to drop it with tranny without issues.

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/mod_to_lift_copy1.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/mo...ft_2_copy1.jpg

I sold my mid-rise and got a max jaxx as well. I highly recommend the Max Jax.

Max Jax sounds like a dream, but any one is using it on heavy car such as a mini van or a big SUV? The maxJax has capacity rating at 6k lbs. If I remember right, my toyota minivan is closes to 6k lbs curb weight. I would feel much better if the lift capacity can handle a little more than the car's weight. Any thought?

I used mine to lift my Trail Blazer which is around 5000 lbs and had absolutely no issues.

How far apart did you have to set your towers? Measuring from outside of the bases. I have max of 116" in my garage for this, and I am planning on using for my '71 project car. But, I also know my buddies will be over with their cars (964 and 993) and I want to be prepared for them.

I believe its 110" but I'll verify this evening. Its best to go wider since I can barely open the doors at that width.

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/img/side-specs.png


Lifting Capacity*: 6,000 Lbs. / 2727 Kg. *Max Capacity / Front Axle: 3,000 Lbs. / 1364 Kg. *Max Capacity / Rear Axle: 3,000 Lbs. / 1364 Kg.Max Load per Arm: 1,500 Lbs. / 682 Kg.A - Height Overall: (*) 89" / 2261 mm.B - Height of Column: 64" / 1626 mm.C - Width (Outside of Base Plate): 105" - 125" / 2667 mm. - 3175 mm.D - Arm Reach (Min.): 24" / 610 mm.E - Arm Reach (Max.): 44" / 1117.5 mm.F - Min. Pad Height: 3.5" / 89 mm.G - Max Lift Height (Pad only): 45" / 1143 mm.H - Max Lift Height (With 3" Adapter): 48" / 1219 mm.Motor: (**) 110-220 VAC / 50-60 Hz. 1Ph.Length of Hose(s): 156" / 3962 mm.Time of full Rise: 30-SecondsIndividual Column Weight: 300 Lbs. / 136 Kg.Shipping Weight: 880 Lbs. / 399 Kg.Shipping Dimensions: 14" x 64" x 40" / 356 mm. x 1626 mm. x 1016 mm.* To top of cylinder when extended to max rise.
** Special voltages available upon request.
Specifications above are subject to change without notice, it is best to contact a
Dannmar sales representative to confirm specifications before purchasing



You may have an issue with drilling the mounts right at the slabs edge if you go wall to wall. Best to get with Danmar about that question. I have the install manual if you need it.

I'm watching this with interest as I was planning on putting in a bend-pak mid-rise, sunken into the floor.

Is there really that much in the very middle of a 911 that ends up being inaccessable when using a scissor type lift?

It would seem to me a post type lift would be more in the way, especially in a smaller space. If you're talking 110" + between posts you need then 13 or 14 feet. Thats going to be tough in my 14 x 20!!

Most scissors mid-rise lifts are rated at 6000 lbs as well. Sounds like you may need to consider a bigger lift.

Does anyone here use a two-post for storage? I've been looking at four post models for my new 3rd garage bay, but know that the ramps will be a pain when working on the car. The two post is tempting, but i also want to use the lift for storing two cars in one bay.

Does the max-jax rely on the fasteners in the concrete to hold up the car?

That would worry me every time I was under it.