Engine lid fit

Allenk · 09-13-2012, 05:19 AM

I did a search and have tried the numerous suggestions regarding getting the engine lid to fit properly but I'm striking out. It's a 71 Targa with a stock lid with the following attempts made:

I've removed the center latch pin, disconnected the shock and added new rubber bump stops. At this point the deck lid was really high on the right (about an inch above the body) and low on the left(about 1/8 inch below the body), very tight opening and closing at the top near the window and the rear edge near the taillight lens low and showing about 3/4" of the side panel.
I shimmed the hinges with washers and got the top edge to a even height with the body which took care of the open and closing and added a variety of shim combinations to the front and back of the hinges between the hinge and lid but for the life of me can't get both sides to align height wise.
Where I'm at; shimming the left seemed to help the right being high and I can get them close but not acceptable. Adding more shims has left me with the whole deck lid too high to the body and the trailing edge problem still remaining. The rubber stops aren't even a factor at this point since I can screw them all the way out and the problems still exist.

Do you think this is a problem with the hinges? The decklid out of shape? Me being an idiot?

Any help is appreciated.

Hnichols · Hnichols's Garage

I know this won't help, but, FWIW, I had a hell of a time getting my engine lid to fit properly. Like yourself, I had to use a combination of shims and finessing to get it to close evenly. Even now, the gaps don't line up perfectly, but it's good enough.

My unscientific conclusion is that the fit has to be just about perfect; even if the lid is ever so slightly potato-chipped, it will fit poorly.

I'm inclined to fault the lid rather than the hinges, b/c in my case the original lid I was replacing (going from tail to tailless) fit perfectly.

Hopefully someone else will have some more practical suggestions -- good luck!

silverc4s · silverc4s's Garage

There is a threaded block that the 10mm bolts attach to, inside the two layers of deck lid. This able to "float" around a bit L>R and F>R, but NOT Up>Down.
So, the shims will get bothe sides to the proper height at the top (window) edge, AND get the slope proper down to the bottom (muffler) edge.
Once you have that done, then with the bolts snug but not tight, you can "adjust" the position with a rubber mallet a bit at a time. Masking tape on all of the edges will prevent gnashing of teeth later...

Patience, grasshopper.

Allenk · 09-13-2012, 07:56 AM

I'm thinking I may need to take it completely off and lay it on a flat surface to see if it is "potato chipped"(great term for it). I just can't see how it can be so far off one side to the other w/o something torqued.

mcaterino · 09-13-2012, 11:02 AM

I don't have anything very helpful to add, except that I did have mine very close to perfect.... until I connected the shock. With that pressure on the upper left corner I haven't been able to make everything else flat. So you probably should reconnect it for your interim adjustments to get the best 'final' result.

Mike

Allenk · 09-16-2012, 02:56 AM

So here's where I am with this; I've come to the conclusion that the engine lid is out of shape. A handy piece of trash that helped was an old solid door seal. Run across the top edge, it gave me the exact height I needed for the top edge when just laying the lid in place not attached to the hinges. With the bottom stops adjusted, I was able to move the lid around and find the best fit freely. I guess now I need some time "working" the lid to try and restore some shape.

Allen