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Happy to say there were no spark showers this morning going to work at 55F, top comes off for the 80F ride home. Less than a 1/4” of rain here since June and none coming. I really like the Targa in weather like this! :)
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Took a look at the failed switch today. Made by Indak.
The terminals had come loose in the micarta board and had turned enough for the connectors to touch. The switch uses pressure against the mounting studs internally to make/break the connections. Age related failure is my guess. Mine also has a rotary pot on it for min-max cooling mounted on the shaft. I don't think I'll be finding a new one of these soon. Here's a pic of a similar new one. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348880712.jpg |
Hah. Same switch in my BMW 2002. Also made by Indak. I replaced it about 5 years ago.
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Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-613-243-00-M100
How many years do you expect a switch to carry 12+ amps |
I'm just going to keep posting these pictures as a safety reminder anytime I read a 911 a/c spark-burn story. My stock, unfused front condenser fan burst into flames while driving home from Pittsburgh. Unlike the rest of you, I'm pretty wimpy and enjoy staying cool in the heat. My stock a/c works really well other than the occasional fire:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6E048C53FA.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6E09FB59CC.jpg |
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The switch you linked me to is close to mine, mine was a dual function switch with a rheostat and second rotary knob to control the cooling level. No console, dealer installed when car was brought over by PO. |
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that are demanded through the thermostat. The Variable Speed Fan Controller Board, as well, can handle the normal loads demanded by the evaporator blower motor. |
Bumping an old thread, I am having trouble tracing the last bit of AC harness. I want the wire that terminate in the smugglers box gone. I'm losing track of it under the dash near the factory alarm. Is this an easy harness to delete or is it bundled with other wires.
Trying to be patient and not cut anything :) |
Well this is a blast from the past. Almost 3 years and I haven't regretted pulling it since.
Ayles, not sure about factory A/C wiring runs, seems they just added wires until it worked. :) Where do you think it should go to or come from? What did it control? |
Just spent an hour getting aggressive with it and got it out. Only made one cut at the ground, right at the connector since there was no way I could get in there with a wrench.
All that's left are some yellow wires on the drivers side that were plugged into the harness and a green wire that was plugged in as well. I assume just wrap them both up and call it good? |
Here's a pic of the yellow wires.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432014706.jpg
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Spark shower! Bye Bye A/C
Make sure the thick yellow wire headed to the back of the car is plugged into the one coming from the back of the 6 pin plug as I believe it is your starter solenoid wire to pin one of the 14 pin connector at the rear fuse panel. If I'm seeing the picture correctly on my phone. :)
Others can be taped up. |
The AC harness in the frunk had both green and yellow wires plugged into it just a foot or so from the fuse panel.
It looks like the Two yellow wires can be plugged back in without the AC harness. It was just a tap off the two, if that's the same yellow wire as the starter. Bentley has the starter showing in the AC wiring diagram. I just never would have thought the starter would be involved. |
AC schematic is here
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/Electrical/911_electrical_82SC_AC.jpg |
I really enjoy my upgraded a/c. It was a very satisfying project.:)
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Some better pics:
Frunk: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432048889.jpg Harness: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432048911.jpg I think I just hook up the two frunk wires, since they were pretty much hooked together before with just an additional wire going into the AC harness. |
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