swb to lwb what do i need to do this on a 66 911
 

can any one help me on this one thanks

I know some people have done it but it's not an easy conversion & certainly not a cost-effective one. Why do you want to do this? It would be far simpler & cheaper to sell your swb car & buy a lwb version. Although it's your car & you can do what you want to it, it would seem a shame to do this modification to what is now becoming a rare model.
If you do decide to carry on you will have to change the following parts (at least):
Rear trailing arms, front & rear wings (certainly the lower half),front & rear bumpers, front turnsignals & rear tail lights, horn grilles, engine lid & grille (to get the correct type without the central vertical rib),wider (6") Fuchs, etc, etc!

Don't even think any more about it!

Andy Boyle (UK)
'69 911E

Patrick,

Andy left out the longer half-shafts, new, larger CV-joints, and mating outboard stub axles, and inboard output-drive flanges for the 901 transaxle!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

sory i just want to do the back of the car and leve the frount alone.cause i found some rsr quarter panels.cause i hit a tree hard .a long time ago

SWB cars has a shorter wheelbase compared to a LWB car, is it porportionally at rear and front chassis or is the whole difference only at rear end, the body is already converted to LWB on my friends car.

Need to know.

It's just in the rear.

The inner mounts on the torsion tube are different, and the shock towers are different. This is a project that is not as easy as it seems.

Sounds like fun, we need more welders joining the board!

You might search for the rear arm mods done on Jack Olsen's BBII.; maybe more than you want to do, but then again...

Here is what I did.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1087332475.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1087332587.jpg ;)

And now it's a SSWB (super short wheel base). http://jm.g.free.fr/smileys/wow.GIF

No crime cutting on that car, IMO. Get the alum trailing arms if you want to get serious.

You will need to match the CV joints on the newer trailing arms to your trans -- somehow. It's a troublesome project, but that may be the catws meow for you. You have to decide.

The Al arms are about 11 lbs. lighter and are stiffer. Find them on a 1977 MY and up -- they may be on cars as early as 1974. Not too spendy.

How did you with the damper mounting and the other mounting points to the shell?

Pictures tell more than a thousands words, money and timewise, is that a effective way?

if i had the pile of parts below, what other parts and what labor/fabbing would be needed? surely somebody here has done this before???http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1087696840.jpg