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Embs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
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Cool Motor Meister Opinions

Hi,

I am new to the board but not new to the beloved Porsche!

Has anyone used or does anyone have an opinion of Motor Meister in CA, I am considering them for my next rebuild.

Good or bad, I am interested in all opinions if any.

Thanks,

Todd

Old 07-05-2002, 11:37 AM
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I have neve used them but one has to wonder what they leave out to get a low cost.


Do yourself a favor and do a search for MM and judge for yourself.
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1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus"
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Old 07-05-2002, 11:41 AM
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Wayne 962's Avatar
These guys must have great advertising. Either that, or their $2500 'rebuild' attracts all the people trying to get away with a cheap rebuild.

Check out some previous threads:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=90025&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

-Wayne
Old 07-05-2002, 11:54 AM
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Hello Wayne,

What is the ball park cost of the parts to do a rebuild? I would assume that we are not replacing any broken stuff, just the worn out stuff like gaskets, rings, replacement hardware, valve guides, bearings, etc.

I ask this to give our readers a sense of what the parts cost is and then factor the time (30-40 hours) and machnine shop services.

BTW, great site!!
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Harry
1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus"
1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here}
1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey"
2020 MB E350 4Matic
Old 07-05-2002, 12:12 PM
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Read other MM threads, particularly end of other current one. That's my opinion in a nutshell.
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Old 07-05-2002, 12:17 PM
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Cool

Motor disaster has some satisfied customers, I think...
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Old 07-05-2002, 12:50 PM
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From a previous post. Gosh, I keep posting the same info again and again. I can't wait until I can tell people to just buy the book!



From an earlier post:

There are certain 'correct' ways of rebuilding engines. To rebuild most 911 engines, it does cost about $8000. That's about the same cost for a 2.0L or a 3.2L. Of course, if you have a 'tired' 3.0L with no broken head studs, and Nikasil cylinders, you may be able to get away with about a $2K cost if you rebuild it yourself.

For the stock 2.7 liter engine that I'm rebuilding for the new book, the total cost on the machine shop work was about $3500, and the total cost of the parts is about $2500. The case had pulled time-certs and that destroyed a head and a piston/cylinder.

Here's the bill from Competition Engineering:

Qty Labor Unit Price Total
1 Inspect & Evaluate 1974 Crank Case $50.00 $50.00
1 Standard Cut Linebore $495.00 $495.00
1 Install Case Savers - Case had old Time-certs $350.00 $350.00
1 Oil system bypass modification $130.00 $130.00
1 Spot-face through bolt holes $145.00 $145.00
1 Flush & test piston squirters $50.00 $50.00
3 Repair damaged motor mount threads $15.00 $45.00

1 Inspect & Evaluate 2.7L Heads (1X junk) $50.00 $50.00
12 R&R Valve Guides $16.50 $198.00
1 Complete Valve Job $350.00 $350.00
6 Resurface heads - .25mm $40.00 $240.00
2 Install Exhaust Studs $5.00 $10.00

1 Inspect & Evaluate 911 2.7L crankshaft - std./ std. $35.00 $35.00
1 Polish & Clean Crankshaft $110.00 $110.00

6 Recondition & resize rods $45.00 $270.00
12 Recondition rocker arms w/bushings $19.00 $228.00
1 Balance engine $300.00 $300.00

Qty Parts (from machine shop) Unit Price Total
1 Set of Perimeter inserts $23.00 $23.00
29 10x1.5 Case-Saver inserts $1.00 $29.00
12 Rocker arm bushings $3.25 $39.00
2 Exhaust studs $2.00 $4.00
12 Valve guides $5.50 $66.00
1 Misc Chemicals $15.00 $15.00
12 Viton valve stem seals $2.25 $27.00
6 Connecting rod bushings $5.25 $31.50

Total: $3,290.50

Walt is the best and has a backlog of work. I've had to wait 2 extra months for him to complete the machine work on this engine, but when the parts come back, they are top-notch, and all within spec.

It's impossible to rebuild a magnesium-case engine for the prices that some rebuilder charge without cutting many, many corners.

All of this information is documented in my new book, "How to Rebuild and Modify Your 911 Engine." It's too bad, because most people who have their engine rebuilt, or rebuild it themselves, really have no idea as to what needs to be done. They are impressed by flashy websites, and fast-talking salesmen and mechanics who will tell you downright wrong information.

I hope that people will buy the book who want to rebuild, AND who will have their engine rebuilt by someone else. It will arm you with all the right questions to ask - Information currently unavailable in print anywhere else.

Other people's engine rebuilding websites say "call us and ask questions..." However, how do you know if what you are hearing is garbage or not? I can't wait to finish this dang book because I see soooo much wrong information, and soooo many people fooled (or swindled, however you want to phrase it).

Please, if you have any questions about rebuilding your engine, then ask them here, and I will try to dispell the misinformation (until the book comes out - then I'll just say buy it...)



-Wayne
Old 07-05-2002, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoninLB
Motor disaster has some satisfied customers, I think...
Although not sure how much that really means.

Not saying MM does this, but if I had a biz and charged people $4k for "complete" rebuilds, but only reringed and put in new valve seals, I bet I would have some satisfied customers, too. Maybe even a lot of satisfied customers.

Perhaps ignorance is bliss? (i.e. most don't crack the engine open to see if they got what they paid for. Some do, though. Ask Kurt Starnes and others about what was "in the box" when they actually took a peek).
Old 07-05-2002, 01:53 PM
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Quite simply, Motor Scheister used used parts that they have taken out of other engines they've rebuilt, that they consider to still be "acceptable," and uses them in the engine they're rebuilding for you.

Stephan
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Old 07-05-2002, 03:21 PM
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I asked teeh same question a few days ago, and got the same answers you are probably getting. I'm glad I checked with all the experts on thei site. Take their advice! spend the extra money.

Old 07-05-2002, 03:55 PM
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