|  | 
| 
 How to stop dashboard cracks in their tracks? I've noticed some new cracks in the dash of my '88.  At the moment, they're inconspicuous - ahead of the gauge cluster and unseen.  But left alone - I'm certain that the dash will continue to dry out and the cracks will grow until they run completely from the front to the back of the dashboard. Here's a quick cell phone pic of the biggest one - sorry for the quality, but it's through the windshield glass: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1350844365.jpg Does anyone have any clever Macgyver solutions for this? I was thinking about the possibility of using something like Gorilla Glue. After it foams up, sand it down flush - maybe finish with black and/or blue sharpies. I figure that this will keep the cracks at bay until I pull the glass in a year or so for a respray (and pull the dash while I'm in there to have sent out and recovered properly). Is there anything wrong with this? Could I make it worse this way? Are there better quick ways to deal with this? Thanks! EDIT: I found this post, which has many recommendations - but few seem to work without removing the dash. I also can't use any dash repair products that require heat, as it's nearly impossible to get a heat source wedged in between the windsheild and dash. (Also, I've used the "liquid leather" and Eastwood kits on a 944 dash in the past, and didn't have any luck). I might try this instead of the Gorilla Glue: http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...repair-kit.jpg | 
| 
 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/422456-dash-repair-101-a.html There is no long term or permanent solution, aside from a cover or a new dash. | 
| 
 Quote: 
 | 
| 
 I did the repair a few years ago. The cracks are back | 
| 
 i would just fill them with black rtv and re apply as needed. that way your not sanding and making a bigger mess of it. | 
| 
 Think of it as patina. Richard | 
| 
 Quote: 
 That might be the right solution. It's not in a particularly visible spot (yet) - I just want to stop it from continuing up the rest of the dash. | 
| 
 fwiw, and i haven't done this myself, but drilling a hole at the end of the crack might stop it from extending. then fill it. this was my plan at first but i just bought a new dash. | 
| 
 Where did u purchase the new dash? Thanks, Glenn | 
| 
 RTV = room temperature vulcanizing sealant. I've used Felpro brand before. I like to put a bit on my finger and apply it, then wet finger with water and smooth it down. Might help to use a hair dryer on the tube to make it flow easier depending on temps. Not as good as a new dash but better than staring at a crack. If I ever have to replace windshield I'll consider a new dash at that point. | 
| 
 Where can you buy a new molded dash that is identical to OEM? | 
| 
 Quote: 
 | 
| 
 Quote: 
 | 
| 
 I recovered mine with Alcantara, a suede like synthetic material, love the results.  I highly recommend it, low glare and really matches the car (doesn't look too 'modern'). Chuck.H '89 TurboLookTarga, 371k miles | 
| 
 You can fill them, but you really can't stop a crack. Eventually it will crack again. The best approach is to recover the dash. I have a crack ow in my 1974 dash in the usual spot (just to the right of the instruments). I'll fill it using Leatherique (works great), but will have to recover at some point. | 
| 
 I have a few small cracks in my SC.  I'm waiting until someone starts making a replacement dash that isn't stupid $ to buy.   Until then I'll call it petina:) | 
| 
 Since this post is revived...I'll post an update.  Mark is correct.  I filled in my cracks with flexible plastic repair.  I sanded it down flat and even colored it in with a blue sharpie, which looked pretty good for a while. Eventually, however, time caught up with it and caused further splitting. Eventually, I'll find a restoration shop to recover my dash. In the meantime, it could be worse. I like the attitude here..."patina" - ha. :) Thanks everyone for the input. | 
| 
 You need to drill a large enough hole that is spreads the stress that is causing it to crack. Probably at least 3/16" of an inch and you need to make sure you get all of the crack as the end of it will be invisible. The inside of the drilled hole must also be smooth otherwise you are just creating more stress risers. Once you have the crack positively stopped then you can fill and repair the crack and the hole. I'm good at mechanical stuff but suck at 'artistic' stuff so I wouldn't attempt a vinyl repair. Someone who is good at that stuff can give the repair the same texture so it is invisible. I'd go for a recovering. The Alcantara idea sounds excellent. On the later cars that allow you to replace the dash without pulling the window it would really be slick. On the earlier cars I wonder if someone could work out a way to recover it without having to pull the dash. I think it is a head scratcher that someone could make some money on. | 
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:22 AM. | 
	Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
	
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
	Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website