the cars that require an engine/trans removal as a unit are the 70 and 71, due to the way the T/O bearing attaches to the fork, and the C2/C4 line, due to the release fork shaft. all the previous ones can be removed easily without the trans. why waste time. if you work with stone knives and bearskins, perhaps taking the whole thing out would be easier on you, but if you use proper tools, and a decent jack that you can adjust the tilt on, there's no reason to spend 2 extra hours screwing around. by the way, always disconnect the shift coupler before lowering the engine, and on installation, put the trans in gear and set the e/brake to keep the mainshaft from turning. that helps a lot when trying to engage the splines. also, deal with the top engine to trans bolts when the engine is lowered, as well as the throttle rod.
i'm doing a clutch on a 97 C4 today. whole different story. the front diff is removed, the torque tube then can slide forward so the trans can move forward to clear the clutch assembly, and be lowered down on a highjacker. engine stays in the car. labor intensive.

That's what I thought.

There never was any doubt how JW would do an engine pull!

However, it is a bit shortsighted or disingenuous to suggest that the 'shortcut' method is the best way for beginners to be doing on their first attempt at an engine pull! If for no other reason than so the transaxle and starter can be cleaned up before putting the engine back in.

There are almost always several ways a particular job can be done ... but there is a very good reason, even at dealerships, for the beginners or apprentices to follow the factory service manual method ... until experience is gained, then shortcuts can be safely undertaken!

And, for the knuckeheads out there that do not understand the reasoning above ... no responses are required!

I've always done it with just the engine, and never really had any problems, once I knew what to disconnect. On the other hand, I have indeed had many problems with older cars and CV joints. The bolts will strip sometimes resulting in a 5-10 hour job of grinding and cursing. Not worth the risk if you ask me, but that's just my opinion based on my experiences...

-Wayne

quick repairs to drive train problems
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tshih
[B]Get with it guys,

The proper procedure in any major 911 engine-tranny repairs is to remove the entire package and replace them together. That is the beauty of the design in the first place allowing quick and easy repairs during a race. Any short-cut like disengaging the gearbox from the engine with either part still bolted to the car is false economy of effort.

Anyone witnessed last year's Le Mans race where the Audi teams replaced the tranny in about 5.6 minutes because the design allowed complete removal of the modular system (rear end containing the tranny, drive shafts, etc in one unit) as one unit. The 911's drive train(engine+gearbox) was designed to be removed and accessed that way.]

I'm still undecided, I just finished an engine drop (without the tranny) using the help of Wayne's 101 Project's guid and aside from lining up the shift fork I was suprised at how easlily everything went togther. However I think Wayne should post the mirror trick for the 915 shift fork on there (don't remember seeing it on the website or the book) which makes it easier for some of us early 70's porsche owners. The only bind we really came up with was that our jack was too short to raise the engine high enough for the two long bolted mounts at the end of the car even with several blocks of wood added.... thats where a giant can of mixed fuit came in handy. It was so hilarious for me and my friends that we snapped a couple photos just wish I know how to post them so you could pick fun at my 'professional' work ^_^