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The rear will need longer studs when fitting those spacers. Also check the amount of thread left, for the lug nuts, when fitting the new rims up front too. You may have to install longer studs there too
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRE Cup View Post
The rear will need longer studs when fitting those spacers. Also check the amount of thread left, for the lug nuts, when fitting the new rims up front too. You may have to install longer studs there too
yes, I suspected as much but was thwarted in that regard when I realized the earlier cars used studs and nuts. I was about to order 100 conversion studs! I could use them on our other cars I guess. Sprinter, UR quattro and A3.

So what's the crack with longer studs for these? On the Subarus we use ARP or BRAID studs. You bash out the old ones but the longer ones have to go in through the ABS sensor hole which is too small. The solution is to grind off the excess from the stud if keeping ABS or enlarge the hole if not. Any idiosyncracies with these cars? Who makes the studs?
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:18 AM
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Pretty simple really. Verbus (original supplier) makes studs in many lengths. Press out the old and press in the new. Stock is 45mm so, whatever spacer you use, add that length to 45 and go the next size larger. If you want to use open nuts, you may want to add an additional 14mm.
Old 12-01-2012, 08:42 AM
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Glad the bars worked!

Now I just need to put some in my car...
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Driven97 View Post
Glad the bars worked!

Now I just need to put some in my car...
and lift it and add mud flaps and skid plates and come do some real racin'

Thanks for the bars Matt. I'll let you know when we have Brad Penn in stock.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Shea View Post
Pretty simple really. Verbus (original supplier) makes studs in many lengths. Press out the old and press in the new. Stock is 45mm so, whatever spacer you use, add that length to 45 and go the next size larger. If you want to use open nuts, you may want to add an additional 14mm.
Great. Pelican?
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:20 AM
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New boots going on last night.

483637_2650437156702_242316818_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


We lifted the front another 1/2" yesterday so now we are are at 27.5" front and rear. I measured available suspension droop at 2-3 inches.

We also replaced a sealed beam headlight and the wipers and put the rockers back on.

Next we'll try and get baseline weight and dyno pull and find some longer wheel studs so we can run the 12mm spacers in the rear. It really needs them.

526831_2651617146201_869464478_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

319587_2651617826218_1992364903_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

155968_2651618186227_1930599409_n (1) by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

30345_2651619066249_965275220_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

I drove it home from the shop last night. Handling with the 195/65 Winterforce snow tires is, er, interesting to say the least. Maybe an alignment will help.
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Last edited by BRAIDusa; 08-31-2016 at 11:25 AM..
Old 12-04-2012, 02:20 PM
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Very nioce! I think that back could come down a bit get rid of the rack and you'd be ok, esp just for rallycross... this has been a project I've been wanting to do for a bit now! Just can't make up my mind whether to do a 914-6, or a 911 haha

I might suggestion taking a good look at shielding your oil cooling system. I had an idea for a dual cooler system with a front cooler that could be rerouted incase of physical damage... still have some details to iron out. Like I want to install a some valves so the reroute could be accomplished with the car moving and also would need some fine tuning for oil temp, might need to run a dedicated thermostat to it as well
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mfyoung1086 View Post
Very nioce! I think that back could come down a bit get rid of the rack and you'd be ok, esp just for rallycross... this has been a project I've been wanting to do for a bit now! Just can't make up my mind whether to do a 914-6, or a 911 haha

I might suggestion taking a good look at shielding your oil cooling system. I had an idea for a dual cooler system with a front cooler that could be rerouted incase of physical damage... still have some details to iron out. Like I want to install a some valves so the reroute could be accomplished with the car moving and also would need some fine tuning for oil temp, might need to run a dedicated thermostat to it as well
I agree. There is a disturbing amount of vital plumbing exposed on these cars.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:53 AM
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What great progress. Glad to see the torsion bar fixed.

You probably have significant rear positive camber with that much lift. There was a thread that Chuck Moreland from Elephant racing put out about lifting a Carrera for a South America (?) customer that wanted ground clearance for the quality road system. There was some interesting details about the changes to the suspension when raising the car.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jpnovak View Post
What great progress. Glad to see the torsion bar fixed.

You probably have significant rear positive camber with that much lift. There was a thread that Chuck Moreland from Elephant racing put out about lifting a Carrera for a South America (?) customer that wanted ground clearance for the quality road system. There was some interesting details about the changes to the suspension when raising the car.
You wouldn't have a link for that would you? I searched around some but didn't find anything.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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Rally car suspension project
Old 12-05-2012, 08:42 AM
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Oh my. Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:59 AM
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The SC-RS had its banana arms wrapped in fiberglass. It's a thought...
Old 12-05-2012, 11:25 AM
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The SC-RS had its banana arms wrapped in fiberglass. It's a thought...
Fiberglass mat ordered
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:56 AM
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Not much action yesterday but at least the State of Michigan fully endorses the project now.

526668_2652305403407_819771126_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Sorry about the untidy rear. The car was backed into a trailer at some point resulting the the above damage. It got a new engine cover as a result. The remaining damage is not visible with the Porsche plate on but, because of the distortion it wont stay on so I took it till I can devise a fix.

These showed up yesterday. They're not for me but I sure am tempted. We still have to figure out our autocross and track day setup but are leaning to these BRAID replicas in 16x7 and 16x8 shod with Dunlop Direzzas 205 and 225. Of course, ours might be white!

532584_2652871777566_406464985_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


We scored some proper rally snow tires; Yokohama A034. Can you imagine how squirmy these would be on tarmac?

320516_2653630476533_655091641_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


What's this for? One on the left and one on the right, just behind the front wheels.

65143_2656080457781_1835197297_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr


No windshield washers! I added washer fluid and it poured straight onto the floor! Found the pump and bottle but the pipe from the filler is missing. Sorta strange. Pump works though. Today I'll investigate the bottle which is sort of loose.

12042_2656084017870_1453752168_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr



Apart from the above major triumphs we did suffer one setback yesterday: I was adjusting the engine cover latch as it wasn't quite latching. Now it wont unlatch. DOH! Any suggestions how to get it open? I'm sure I'll have to get in there sooner or later.
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Last edited by BRAIDusa; 08-31-2016 at 11:38 AM..
Old 12-06-2012, 04:42 AM
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those clips are probrobly for the a/c lines. if you yank on the lid hard enough while pulling the opener it should pop open. thats what iv heard anyway.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:44 AM
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those clips are probrobly for the a/c lines. if you yank on the lid hard enough while pulling the opener it should pop open. thats what iv heard anyway.
Thanks. I was trying that yesterday but my arms weren't long enough. I'll try again today after yoga.
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Last edited by BRAIDusa; 12-06-2012 at 08:16 AM..
Old 12-06-2012, 07:19 AM
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open the driver door, unfasten the rear lid release "T". that will relax the over center position of the latch slider. The hood should be able to lift at that point. If not, gently pry up on the lower side and and push lift laterally. If one side does not do it, go to the other.
The pin may also be lodged under the latch housing , from the rear bump. You might be able to lift upwards in the center AND pull back towards you to release it
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRE Cup View Post
open the driver door, unfasten the rear lid release "T". that will relax the over center position of the latch slider. The hood should be able to lift at that point. If not, gently pry up on the lower side and and push lift laterally. If one side does not do it, go to the other.
The pin may also be lodged under the latch housing , from the rear bump. You might be able to lift upwards in the center AND pull back towards you to release it
OK, thanks. I'll try that later today.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:17 AM
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