Shift Kit Install - Tech Level?
 

I have a European Model 1985 911 3.2 Convertible and i purchased the $150 shift kit from Pelican AND the Bushings to get a better shift since mine feels like shifting through rocks to get into 2nd and 4th sometimes. I hear clicks and pops, but it feels like it is the level, not the transmission.

My question, on a scale of 1 to 5, 1 being a complete novice of mechanics and 5 being a mechanic, what level am I looking at if I try to install this myself? I am NOT extremely techincal and not a mechanic. I have basic knowledge and will be doing this on my day off in my home garage. Just want to make sure this isnt something that would require knowledge oe techincal skills or some major tools that I might not have...

THANKS

Two very good references:

Wayne's 101 projects for your 911
Look up the coupler whisperer on YouTube.

Probably a 2.5 on your scale.

+1 on the 101 projects book. I don't have experience in the shift kit, but the bushings and coupler replacement are a piece of cake if you mark the position of the coupler.

I have the lousy haynes Repair Manual and it says about zero on the repair or replacement. I am afraid of taking it apart, not being able to install it, then having to tow it to shop to install...

Thanks JayBird12 for the info. I'll check it out and see what I can find. Since my car is a EURO model, I am always afriad something is different when I open something up!!

Is it the Porsche short shift kit or after market? They are quite different in their installs. Mine is a Euro 915 tranny and I just did the after market SSK, all the linkage bushings as well as the Seine gate shift kit all at once. It made a world of difference.

I bought the shift kit with bushings, not a short shift. I bought the Seine Gate shift kit for $148 and also added the bushings from Pelican. I also have the 915 gearbox. I assume I will LOVE this install, as I find my shifting now to be quite terrible... Very loose centered shift. Klunky.

IMHO the Seine Gate Shift Kit is a night and day transformation in how the 915 shifter functions. At least for 1-2-3-4. 5 and R already have a spring loaded gate. I found the instructions well thought out and the actual install not terribly complicated. To me the most fiddly bit was removing the console for access. IIRC you drill all of two holes in the shift tower. Measure twice, drill once. Rest is just swapping parts. Oh yeah, if you have a short shifter you'll need to enlarge the opening in the side of the shift tower. Go ahead and print off the 915 shifter blueprint instructions from the Seine website while you are in there. It took a couple of tries to get the coupler adjustment just right and I think adjusted the new 1-2 gate a couple of times until I was 100% satisfied. One of if not the best bang for the buck upgrades I've made to my car.

-J

I installed the Seine Shift Gate a few years back. Very easy to install - instructions are clear. It does not necessarily help with the shifting feel - but adds confidence around getting the right gear all the time. This was a bit of concern when I was new to my 911.

The bushings should also make a difference.

BUT the main impact to the shifting in my car was simply adjusting the shift coupler. Follow the instructions in Wayne's book (and I believe there are some threads) and it will make a huge difference.

The shifting in my car was TERRIBLE when I first bought it - but with the three items above made a HUGE difference.

I did ultimately have my transmission rebuilt - and now it shifts "like new". If you choose to have it rebuilt - expect to spend about $1500 for the rebuild (use Gary Fairbanks), and about $1500 for other work such as Clutch replacement, etc.

I dropped the engine with some friends and did all the work at home and I am not a savvy mechanic. My friend's are much better than me - but have limited 911 experience.

I found that the hardest part of installing the Seine gate kit was the removal of the darn console, which included enlarging the passage for the sensor and switches.

I swapped the ball cup and coupler bushings in about 30 minutes start to finish.

Setting the coupler so that I could get all 6 gears to my satisfaction took another three hours of trial and error.

Setting the coupler? oh boy...

You REALLY need to get Wayne's 101 projects book. It will make nearly everything seem straight forward. Including setting the coupler and adjusting the shift linkage. I'm sure I've completed at least half of the projects so far.

Easy

1.5 to 2.0 on your difficulty scale. Several good 'how-to' threads on this forum, especially w/tips to help you avoid common pitfalls. Here are 3:

1) Mark position of your coupling before removing
2) Use penetrating oil (I prefer Kroil or PB Blaster) on the set screws well in advance of trying to remove them
3) Heat the new shift-rod bushing in warm-to-hot water for 1.5-2 minutes immediately prior to install; makes it super-easy to install (the hottest water you can get from the faucet is a good temperature)

Good luck

Another +1 for the 101 projects book, if for anything the pictures are great references, much better than the B&W shots in the haynes manual. The swap should not be that hard, I have never done it but I have done my bushings. Make sure you clean all the gunk out of the allen head bolts so you get full contact with your tool. I stripped one of them while removing the shifter base which added about an hour to my job time. If you dont have them already, I would pick up a set of the socket heads with allen keys in them I find them much better than traditional allen keys and far easier to use.

Regards
Dave

Don't be afraid to go back to the coupler if you're not 100% satisfied. The difference between good and so so can be a millimeter's worth of adjustment in the left right or fore and aft axis so trial and error and refine the adjustment a lot. mark it when you find a good place and then refine it from there.

Well something is driving you to want to try and do the work. I think that's a good thing.

I would say it's a 2.5 just because it's the first time you have worked on the car. You can make it a 2 by "taking your time".

I would break down the work into 2 phases (a little more work this way however, you are not trying to do 2 things at once).

Review the links below before you do anything. It's a good like to give you an idea what your going to have to do.

Pelican Technical Article: Shifting Improvements - 911 (1965-86) - 930 Turbo (1975-86)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_shifting_improvements/911_shifting_improvements.htm

This site is outstanding with articles and fellow Pelicans very willing to help you.



Change out the coupler and 2 bushings first.
The key here is as many have said " mark you work" before you do anything. This give you a starting point as well as a reference.
One you have the coupler and bushing installed and adjusted properly, you should see an improvement in your 915. You may want to take some pictures of your work so you can go back and look at them if necessary.

Then install your new shifter per instructions and see what improvement it make if any.

If it turns out to be a rebuild of your 915. Well I had my completely rebuilt at 195,00 miles and it cost me about $4000. I had a few synchros replaced. Bottom-line, the parts are not cheap. Hopefully you will not have to have the transmission rebuilt.

Good luck

I think you pull the front seats to do it. Loosen the bolts on the front seat runners, get in the back seat and shove the seats forward to get at the back bolts. While the seats are out, clean the crud out of the tracks and regrease with white grease. Marking the shifter is key, and you will still futz with it. Even if just replacement bushings, well worth the effort.

Agreed

Although that's a great maintenance idea, its not necessary to adjust the shifter and linkage. Just open the small access lid on the tunnel behind the seats.