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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Manassas Va
Posts: 768
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Idle Srew and Air Mixture Screw Setting
Okay guys,
For my '84 3.2L engine where would I set the idle speed screw and the air mixture screw as a best guess if I won't to clean out bth passage ways. I would think there is sort of a close ballpark point that you would start at and then adjust from there to fine tune. I may be wrong here on this or it may only be applicable to do the idle speed screw screw and leave the air mixture screw alone. Dan O - (s)hit it still won't run PS I got it to run last night for about 3 minutes by holding my hand over the air box snorkel and blocking some of the air flow in. This worked only if I bypass the air mixture by jumping the b to c socket. What's this mean you say, I have no F'n idea. I can't find any leaks in the connections etc so I'm guessing I still have some oil clogging the air mixture or idle speed passages or some component died. If I can't figure it out by Sunday it goes to the shop on Monday. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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I don't know how these systems measure or meter air flow but I would assume there is some type of heated surface mass air flow sensor downstream of the air filter but before the fuel injectors. Could such a sensor be coated with oil and therefore not measuring air flow correctly? Perhaps finding and then cleaning or replacing this sensor should be considered. Cheeers, Jim
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 1,155
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Like your determination Dan - you are going to WILL this thing right!!
OK, it starts with the idle valve bypassed, but hardly runs. You got it to run by reducing air in - by blocking off the inlet of the airflow meter. So....don't touch the setting yet - all they do is bleed more air around the meter, which won;t help with the symptoms you report. Have you checked resistance of the airflow meter?? The 3.2 DME uses a spring loaded barn door [which probably got bathed in oil when things first went wrong]. Check that the door moves freely - it should be closed normally. You are looking for smooth motion - no stickyness. Movement of the barn door drives a variable resistor [its under the black plastic cover on the AFM]. You should check that the resistance is correct, adn changes smoothly over the range of motion of the door - use your tester on ohms setting - remove the connector - there are five pins, numbered from L to R - measure between pins 2 & 3 Should be smooth across the range of motion. It should be really smooth to move, and should return to the fully closed position under its own steam. Good hunting!
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Tony K '89 944T 944 SuperCup Champ 2004 & 2005 '85 Carrera - Sold [sob] TrackVision 944Cup The 999 Site |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Manassas Va
Posts: 768
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Tony,
Thanks for the encouragement here. This car will not beat me after everything I've gone through with it. I haven't driven it in over a year due to a calamity of errors, very long story. The airflow meter did get a coating of oil and I did clean it out thoughly. The door does move freely and comes back to close on it's own. I haven't tested it with a meter yet. Dan O |
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